mdismuke

All of those cons mentioned previously about rattlecans are not absolute. If the equipment isn't available then what is a beginner guitar builder supposed to do when its time to put a finish on the guitar? I've had success with Duplocolor acrylic lacquer, Zellers brand nitro-lacquer and Minwax poly in rattlecans. Of course you have to apply them properly and under the right temp and atmospheric conditions. Laying the stuff down too thick WILL cause problems and WILL take a long time to dry. Just follow the directions, lots of coats over a long period of time and make sure conditions are optimal. Allow sufficient drying time between applications. I don't know what you are doing wrong but I've achieved totally cured finishes with those products inside of 2 months.

I have to agree with dino.

I've painted a few guitars with Krylon and have experienced all the bad stuff just like he said.

The only con mentioned that is not absolute, is chemical reaction, but it happens more often than not.

For the beginner guitar builder, I'd recommend putting that Krylon money towards a spraygun and compressor.

Even a beginner wants professional results and there's nothing in a can that will give you that.

+1 for taking it to a body shop.

You're not going to find what you're looking for in a can.

Just curious ... if it's going to be covered in stickers, why bother painting it?

Try this ... http://www.emginc.com/downloads/wiringdiag...ng_Diagrams.pdf

Or this ...

http://www.emgpickups.com/support.asp

Hope that helps.

Dolphin Glaze works pretty well.

Try guitarnuts.

Thanks for the link, but I've already read it and it really doesn't answer my question (not that I saw anyway).

I'm using shielding "paint" in the control cavity.

When the pots and switches are installed, won't this automatically create a "ground loop"?

If not, then what's the harm in screwing the grounding star the the inside of the control cavity to help secure it?

Also ... can an electronics terminal strip, such as those found at Radio Shack, be used for a neater appearance?

I'm not too kean on using a washer with a blob of solder for my star.

Okay ... did a bit more reading on the subject and determined that running a separate wire from the shielded cavity to the star would be somewhat redundant considering that the pot casings would also be in contact with the shielded cavity.

Am I right?

So, if I understand this correctly ....

If I want to actually mount the star ground, I'm going to have to mount it to something that is completely isolated from the shielded cavity.

Am I on the right track here?

Thanks for the help guys.

One thing I'm not too clear on is why the "star" can't be screwed directly to the shielded cavity. (?)

I'm guessing the proper way would be to run a wire directly from the shielded cavity to the "star" and tape it all up or something.

I wonder, could I do this and screw the star directly to the shielded cavity if I use something to insulate the contact between the star and the cavity?

Doing star grounding is obviously going to add alot more wire to the control cavity and I just want to achieve the cleanest "look" possible.

Thanks

I'm a strong believer that "the proper tool for the proper job" makes all the difference in the world.

Besides ... routers aren't a real big investment.

Great tips. Thanks!

Just curious, what gauge wire do you guys use for wiring a guitar?

I'm building a telecaster style guitar with a bridge similar to this one ...

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bridges,_tailp...ail_Bridge.html

I'm thinking I have to drill another hole beneath the bridge somewhere, so I can route a ground wire from the bridge mounting screw to the control cavity.

I know I can "wing it" if I have to, but I was just wondering if there was a "proper" way of doing this.

Because the bridge mounting screws are so small in diameter, drilling a hole from the cavity to the mounting screw hole (similar to what Gibson does with their bridge stud) would be "hit or miss" at best.

Any thoughts?

PS: I should add that the bridge mounting screws are not like those shown on the Gotoh bridge (my bad). The one I have has (3) mounting screws behind where the strings come up thru the body, which makes it even harder trying to route around the "string thru" holes.

Just curious to see what creative ways you guys have for star ground wiring.

Do you guys use a single point lug? Maybe a creative terminal block? A good 'ol wood screw? Or do you just solder all ground wires together and leave em hang'n?

I really like the look of a neatly wired control cavity and I'm just looking for some ideas for star ground wiring to give it a nice appearance.

All suggestions welcome.

Pics would be awesome!

I've found the "micromesh" sandpaper at places like Walmart too.

Any place that has an automotive department should have it.

They usually keep it in the same section as the Bondo and touch-up paint.

Good luck.

Heh, you had it easy, mdismuke. My guitar has a string-through TOM, no easy template available Draw a line, measure out 6 holes, grab a drill press, and pray, hahaha. I also bought the flanged ferrules, dunno why, and was very tempted to countersink them using a dremel. I suppose if it really bugs me, I can order the flush-mounted ones from StewMac. I already have to order some micromesh.

Just as a side comment, does anyone know of any local chains/shops that sell microfinishing sandpaper? I haven't been able to find any places for the life of me.

I was just kidding about any template being available.

Again, I just measured out the proper scale, mounted the bridge, and carefully drilled through the bridge itself so they would line up perfectly.

The bridge was my template.

BTW, you can find "microfinishing" sandpaper at any local auto-supply store, like Auto-Zone, Pep-Boys, etc ...

Good Luck

MDISMUKE, how did you get those ferruls to line up so nicely. It looks darn perfect.

I used the template.

Seriously, it wasn't all that hard.

I measured up the bridge and mounted it (temporarily).

Then I used my drill press with an 1/8" bit and used the bridge itself as my "template" to drill my holes.

This was done as assurance that the holes would line up perfectly with the bridge when it was mounted as opposed to just marking where holes should be drilled.

I took my time and worked slowly.

I figured if the 1/8" holes were off a bit on the backside, I could maybe compensate some when drilling the larger holes for the ferruls.

I guess I just lucked out.

1. They are SUPPOSED to sit proud of the wood.

They are made with that flange for a reason, flush fitting them would totally void that reason.

2. You run the risk of tearing the wood if you try to recess them, you're talking about tolerances so small, these things typically damn near touch each other on a Telecaster installation, that the wood would tearout between the flanges and the installation would look like ass.

And that would happen because you were installing them improperly to begin with.

If you want them to sit flush, then buy the flush fitting ferrules, it's a very easy thing to comprehend and is not up to conjecture, one is made for one installation, the other for the other type of installation.

And if YOU want to do things ass-backwards and against the accepted way things are done, that's great, I'm all for inventiveness and creativity and breaking the rules and all like that, but don't go recommending your way to anyone else without specifically telling them that your way is completely against the accepted rules and is a custom application done to please your own intellect and yours only.

THEN if they want to follow you, great. At least they know and understand what they're getting into.

In other words, don't go giving advice if you don't know how to give it properly, the people asking for advice don't know, that's why they're asking in the first place, and they are counting on someone who will give them the correct answer, not some custom modded whacky idea you came up with unless you specifically point out that that's what it is to begin with.

This answer was a no-brainer easy, and yet several people are popping off with no idea what the answer is, or adding their own custom applications.

This is not how you help people, it's how you screw them up.

Drak,

You're absolutely right.

After reading some of the responses, I could tell by the wording that most of what was said was "preference".

Oz's ferruls will look great, but it also looks like Oz has alot more room to work with.

I sorta figured the ferruls I had were not suppose to be recessed, but I thought I'd come here for some reassurance.

Once again, you guys didn't let me down.

Thanks again.

Thanks to all who responded.

I test fit the ferruls and think they look just fine without having to recess them.

This is the first guitar I've built with a "string-thru" design, so I apologize in advance for what some may consider a "stupid question".

I've measured out the placement for my bridge and drilled my holes.

Then I countersunk the holes for the ferruls ...

Now for my question ...

The string ferruls I have are #0173 in the picture.

I know the #0196's are suppose to sit flush, but the #0173 ferruls have a flange and I'm not sure if these need to be flush as well.

So do I need to recess the flange too?

Or just recess the ferrul so the flange sits surface mounted above the body?

Thanks for the help!

Thanks for the help Drak.

Your response tells me I was on the right track to begin with in regards to "scale legnth" and that there really is no "magic template" or anything.

I understand the last part of my question in regards to measurements may lead some to believe I no absolutely nothing about building guitars, but please don't judge me based on my one and only posting.

Thanks again for the help.

I'm building a tele project guitar and the "string thru" holes have not yet been drilled thru the body.

I can guesstimate the hole placement based on the scale legnth, but I was wondering if anyone had the exact measurements or if there was some sort of template available that would take the "guess-work" out of it.

The bridge is not the standard tele bridge with the pickup mount attached if that makes a difference.

Even if someone could measure the distance from the bottom of the body to the string thru holes on the backside, that would be a great help.

Thanks.