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MCH

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Everything posted by MCH

  1. MCH
    Well the best thing to do would be to get a hold of some body repair shops and ask if they would do something like that and get a quote. Some shops may not be interested.
  2. MCH
    Well look on the bright side; that in it self is worth more than gold. Memories are priceless.
  3. MCH
    My cut on this is that I would use the wood I prefer. Use the shape that is most pleasing and comfortable to you (also chambering or lack of is important). I seriously think the tone is mostly in the pickups; at least on the guitar side. Of course amps and playing style is also very important in the tone. just my opinion; I'm not an expert.
  4. MCH
    My curiosity is satisfied. I figured the author should get something out of this large loaning pool. thx
  5. MCH
    I have a question that I was wondering about. Do Libraries pay extra fees for their books in order to loan them out to the general public? just curious.
  6. MCH
    After I did my first lapsteel, my son wanted one too. So I went to the drawing board and created a new style. This is a lot deeper and hollowed out. The back is clear pine and the front is 3/4" mahogany. In the style of Weissenborn I hollowed out the neck; leaving quite of bit material on the perimeters, about 1/2" to 3/4". I'm curious to see how it will sound unplugged. I'm still in the progress of finishing it. The tailpiece is something new. Rather than neck thru, it is similar but top loading. You can see where the cavity for the string plate will be; it's made of purpleheart. The fretboard is alternating pieces of maple and purpleheart, quite striking. I'm installing a humbucker for now (something that is on hand) but will probably replace with a humbucker sized P-90 down the road. Hopefully he'll be pleased. Will post other pics when done.
  7. MCH
    I did a similar thing with three Lil Killers from GFS. I find the parallel configuration not that much different other than a lowering of volume and possibly a little thinner in sound. In my tele build coming up I'm going true single coils; or posssibly P-90 (which I understand should have a similar sound to regular single coils). But obviously your build met your approval. cheers
  8. MCH
    My experience tells me otherwise. But each to his own.
  9. MCH
    Nice clean looking build. A tele design is on my drawing board.
  10. MCH
    Ouch!!! That sounds painful. I have a tailpiece design I've designed for my current lapsteel build that's similar to the ideas discussed here. Will post a pic when done. I also like the look of this guitar. Creativity is the spice of life.
  11. MCH
    LOL. That's happened to me also. But luckily it was a short run for a bridge pickup in my lapsteel. But luckily there seems to be solutions for the most part. Yours worked. Carry on with the sawdust.
  12. MCH
    I find what works best for me is string up the guitar with bridge in relatively correct position. Then tune it up and adjust the bridge (all saddles lined up in the centre) until you get the closest correct intonation. Then mark that position and do the permanent fixing. I like doing this so I can also see how the strings are lining up with the fretboard. On my first guitar I went by the manufactures recommended placement measurements and ended up a bit too far back. I can still intonate but all the saddles are basically in the forward position. Every time I look at it, it irks me. Someday I'll revist this and relocate the bridge.
  13. MCH
    The finish is multi coats of poly, wet sanded in between coats. What is it you need to know about the nut and bridge? It's basically a 1/2" copper pipe with a mahogany dowel. One side is flattend to couple with body; this gives about 3/8"+ string height. Bridge is the same as the nut but has an aluminum plate holding the bridge. The plate can be screwed to the body. I have slots in the plate to allow for adjustment if you want for intonation; probably not necessary. I found if you slant the bridge it is pretty close to proper intonation.
  14. MCH
    Awhile back someone posted a project of a homemade lapsteel. I had been interested in doing one; so here is my take. The top is 3/4" mahogany and the bottom half is 1 1/2" clear pine. It's a 22 1/2" scale. My fretboard (no frets) is inlaid alternating oak and walnut for positioning. The nut and bridge I'm using a 1/2" copper pipe with a 1/2" mahogany dowel inside. I made the bridge moveable to help with any need to change intonation. Currently it is not fixed; getting some strings to finalize the intonation position. The strings are body thru with purleheart ferruls. Right now I have a 8 K ohm output humbucker, but will eventually get a P-90. Unless the humbucker meets my sound. Just need to get the strings and finalize my electronics. Then it'll be time to give it a whirl. Never played one. A whole new learning experience.
  15. MCH
    I'm certainly not a luthier of many guitar experience. But for my part I think the string through is a much nicer look. As previously mentioned less hardware is nice. Especially in some guitars where there isn't that much space in the bout. My first build was with a hand made tail piece and my second build is with string through using my own ferrul design. I'm in the process of making a lapsteel with string through because of a shortened length. It's all in the eye of the beholder. I like the string through look.
  16. MCH
    I discovered in my last build using mini switches, they will create hum when touched if not grounded. When I grounded them they were ok. It's not really a big issue because you only touch them minimally when playing.
  17. MCH

    Re-painting

    MCH replied to Zickles's topic in Electronics Chat

    Step away from the 'hooka'. Posting a painting question in a 'Electronics' sub-forum will likely get very little helpful advice.
  18. MCH
    Yes, that is what I used. I like the richness of that red. Will start to use it in some of my furniture projects. Waiting for my Kiwi Cordivan or Mahogany shoe polish to do the final wax buffing. I discovered with some of my speaker builds this worked great. Especially with open pored woods such as oak. The coloured wax does not leave off coloured residue in the pores. The Kiwi has carnuba and buffs up to a very nice silky smooth finish with a very rich looking luster. This may not be a standard method, but it works great for me.
  19. MCH
    A quick update. I've almost finished this build. Still waiting for black volume knobs. I have GFS Lil Killers for pickups. Three push/pull volume pots for series and parallel. Three on/off switches. No tone controls. It's finished with pseudo tung oil. I'll wait another week or so and then buff it up a little more with some paste wax.
  20. MCH
    GregP Is that some kind of whammy bar you have going on there on the bridge? I would also think the so called fretboard really isn't necessary; all is needed is some markers under the strings to give you an idea where the frets are. I was thinking maybe for my build I'd use purpleheart for the top and just mark out fret positions under the strings. The bottom half I would use something else like clear spruce or mahogany etc. Hmmm. This could be very interesting build. Plus I was thinking of using a Single Coil in the neck position and a Humbucker at the bridge. Is this a bad idea for a lapsteel?
  21. MCH
    Have started my stain stage. I'm using a Min Wax Sedona Red. I think this may be the colour I'm looking for. If it's too red I may look at adding a light coat of Red Chestnut. This stage can be the break or make, for the final look of the guitar. Hopefully my decision will make me happy. In all my years of crafting with wood the final outcome is like heralding in the birth of a new family member; you get what you get and are pleased with whatever happens. LOL
  22. MCH
    Looking at the guitar neck it seems very wide. Is it just that the body is smaller than a regular guitar? What is the width of the fretboard? A lapsteel is my next project and am curious about the fretboard and this build.
  23. MCH
    Some update pics. I have the cavities routed out. The bridge is temporarily placed to get the correct placement for intonation. The guitar so far is quite lite. I haven't weighed it though. Now I have to figure out the stain colour. http://img258.imageshack.us/img258/4736/gu...buildz2aai6.jpg http://img249.imageshack.us/img249/3298/gu...buildz3agu9.jpg
  24. MCH
    Wasn't able to access that page, came up as formatting jibberish. But I mused about the tone control on the guitar a while back. Posted a question on this subject. I find the tone control on my guitars used very littlle. So on the build I'm on now I'm dispensing with the tone controls. I bought a pedal equalizer and find a lot more useful control. I have a feeling I won't be missing them.
  25. MCH
    That there is the difference between a $1000 guitar and a $3000 guitar! Being a back cover plate I usually just try to match up the grain with some extra wood; works pretty good if it the piece comes from the same board. Either way is a heck of a lot better than a piece of plastic that is usually an ivory colour or black. LOL
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