factory5150

Make a base out of ply or masonite then make a template of the tremolo cavity and just cut it out on the base. That way you have some wiggle room and less chance of the router tipping.

This is the only place on the internet I have found the super glue...

I assume this is it right?

http://www.castlewholesalers.com/SUPER-GLU...ve-Syringe.html

Yep, that's it. Warning, buy a few because once you try this stull you won't want to use anything else. I know I don't. When Home Depot stopped carrying it, I just about freaked.

Luckily they wholesale only and I have to place an order for 15 lol. I will keep that site bookmarked because they are the only place on the web I have found that has the SYSS stuff. Everywhere else has the stuff in the red and black caps.

Thanks

This is the only place on the internet I have found the super glue...

I assume this is it right?

http://www.castlewholesalers.com/SUPER-GLU...ve-Syringe.html

Is this compatable or is there going to be a big mess when I spray my 2 part poly clear.

Sealer is Lawrence-McFadden vinyl sealer

Clear is going to be either DuPont or PPG

Thanks,

Chris

Hi Chris. It's made my superglue corporation and it's the 20 minute clear with the blue plugger. Unfortunately, I was having a problem finding it on the shelves. The last place I was buying it directly from was Home Depot. It is still in their stock numbers so some of them may still carry it.

I use so much of it that I buy in a case at a time right from superglue corp (their minimum order). Their are some web-site that carry it, but they don't stock it so the order forfillment time is really long. Some Ace Hardwares may carry it too.

Check around. It's the best stuff I have ever used and it cheap combared to like Stu-Mac or something. It's about $2.50 a tube. Highly recommended. Mixes fast, cures fast, solid as a rock, little if any bubble problem, and colors well with saw dust.

Is this it? http://superglue.supergluecorp.com/syss.html

And to clarify you said that using that stuff alone gives a better look rather then mixing in some maple dust?

Thanks again!

Chris

Whereas the gaps on my maple pieces are really small and very uniform because I use a cam machine, I actually use clear (slight yellow tint) epoxy without coloring the glue at all. The color of the wood is seen through the glue which is lighter than mixing dust with the glue. I think this is a better look. I like to you superglue expoxy in the 20 minute cure time mixture.

You might want to experiment with this.

So the epoxy comes already with a slightly yellow tint to it? Care to shoot me a link of this stuff so I can try it out?

Thanks

Chris

Not knowing your skill level - and being honest that on inlay work,there are many better. I would do the sawdust/glue fix. If you're a little more confident than I am, you may try using a craft blade to even out the gaps and go with the black epoxy.

That's actually a really good idea, take an exact o knife or something and make the gaps around the inlay look more uniform. I may have to look into that. I tried using the sawdust and glue on a test piece and I didn't like how much the glue shrunk which made me want to try the epoxy route instead.

The black epoxy could look really good (depending on inlay) if it's even. Wouldn't want black splotchy things all over the place

The inlay is a tree of life with gold stem, white pearl small leafs and blue pearl big leafs. To be honest the gap around the inlay isn't really consistent, which sucks because I did not make the inlay it was done by a 3rd party. So some gaps will be wider then others. Maybe I should just mix the maple dust with the epoxy and call it good, because I already know it isn't going to ever look right, but I would like to salvage what I can. What would you do in my situation?

First, usually you can mix the sawdust from routing out the inlay shapes and mix w/ glue to create a gap filler. Some use CA glue, others regular wood glue.

Second, if you wanted to wrap an attached fretboard, you would need to remove the frets, route the correct gap for the binding, glue/clamp the binding, cut the fretslots into the binding to make existing and put in new fretwire. This is not advisable while attached.

There are no frets on the fretboard yet. I think I can make a jig to reduce the risk of messing up the fretboard while routing for the binding. I didnt know if there was any kind of powder I could mix with epoxy to give it a maple hue, I was thinking about using black epoxy to put a black outline around all the inlay but I am unsure if that would look good.

Chris

Hey guys I am inlaying my maple fretboard, and I have some gaps around all my inlay. What can I do to mask or hide these gaps and make the fretboard look a little better. Also my fretboard is already attached to my neck but I want to put a binding around it, how would I go about doing that?

If you guys need a picture just let me know.

Chris

What would look cool on that carbon fiber top would be to heat the back up so when you look at it in an angle its yellowed. Then coat it in urethane to make it super glossy. But if that isnt the look you were going for then...But the guitar is sick dude that was some creative thinking to come up with that!

Ive heard coffee beans being used befor.

If you search the forum for Relicing you will come across lots of information.

Good luck and post pics when your done!

If I use coffee, do I just put the body right into the grinds or do I have to add a little bit of water just to get the coffee grinds slightly damp? I tried searching the forum on relicing but it really doesnt help me too much on turning my white body yellow lol...

Hello all,

I had a question on whats the best way to turn artic white into a vintage white without repainting. I have heard burying the body in coffee grinds, laying it out in the sun and some others. What would your oppinion be on getting that light creamy white turning to a yellowish white without repaint?

Also I have a maple neck thats unfinished that I would like to stain it, so it appears "vintage nitro" colored. Are there any wood finishing stains that could get me close? I am not expecting to get exact results for the body or neck I just want close to get the point across. Be easy on me guys lol.

Thanks for your help in advance.