mbe

So I'm trying to wire up some tone pots, and I manage not to get a low pass filter. Instead I get a pot that can modulate the frequency. Have any of you guys seen this?

Oh so true Mick...The first guitar I refinished was about 20 years ago. My father painted cars so I had him shoot it a cool corvette purple with a pearl. Still have that axe to this day. Anyway, I slapped it together and proceeded to set it up. What a nightmare. Could not set the intonation no matter what I tried. I got it close and it would not tune right. Pulled the neck off, stripped the paint from the pocket and the contact surface of the neck and to this day it is such a sweet playing instrument!. My advice...keep the pcket and contact surface clean as you can. Peace...Rog

Thanks guys. That's what I figured, but I just wanted to make sure the pros don't do some fancy calculations.

Greetings All! I'm getting to the end of my first guitar and I'm about to start the finishing of the body and what not. Today I realized that the tolerances that I routed the neck pocket to may be thrown off by the application of the Lacquer/Shellac finish I'm thinking about applying. Am I just over thinking this or should on my next next guitar try to take this into account? Thanks for the help.

Also, please be aware that scale length is *not* the distance from the break point of the nut to the saddle of the bridge. That is the string length, and includes some compensation, which makes it longer than the scale length. The scale length is twice the distance from the break point of the nut to the centre of the 12 fret.

Like Wez, I usually place my bridge so that the saddles sit on the end of the scale length when adjusted all the way forward, for the same reason he gives.

I think I'm a bit confused at this scale length now. I was under the impression after reading stewmac that the scale length was measured from the farthest point on the nut from the bridge to the 12th fret x2. I'm off by the width of the nut then? Thanks in advance for the clarification.