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Posts posted by JPL
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Here's Woody, sorry, it's not a great pic. I didn't use any dye just veneer marquetry inlayed into the body.
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When i get around to inlaying my headstock i think this will be the method i use. To me, an exacto blade and a tiny chisel would be far easier to handle accurately than a dremel. I also (for some reason) get more joy out of using hand tools than power tools.
I use both. I scribe the outline pretty deep with the knife (I've only inlayed venner so it's not too deep) and then route with the dremel. It might not be the right way but it gives me a nice clean edge.
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Just a friendly reminder to watch your language Nick, there's kids around.
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Boggs, if you hide that koa I'll hunt you down and make you wear a grass skirt.
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I was talking to a friend who was chuckling because a customer brought in his fretless bass to be intonated. But the conclusion we came to was that intonation would still be important so that the notes would line up on the board eliminating the need to compensate with your fingers.
It makes sense to me but what do I know? Can some of the bass players answer this one?
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You don't have kids.
Or a puppy with an appetite for lumber. I think he knows better than to chew on a guitar but I'm not taking any chances so on the wall or in the case.
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yeah its not a clear coat, it doent feel that way anyway, so lighter fluid, i take it i dont light it anyway, lol, it might turn the wood black, but not the look im going for. i have the stain sorted out though, i have a couple of tins of ebony stain lyeing around, so that shuld sort it, what would the stain do to the inlays, all thats on it is pearl dots. and what will i use to refinish the fretboard
I think you would want to use dye rather than stain.
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Happy new year to all of you as well!!!
I spend new year's eve sitting at home cutting a headstock inlay. Kind of pathetic I know but I'm an old coot.
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It can't really be the nut if it happens when it's... mmm... fretted. It would have to be a bit of a waver in the fretboard. Adjust the truss rod till straight and the check with a straight edge.
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Good call on the mask. CA is nasty, even the "low odor" version will sneak up on you. Treat it as the poison it is.
Epoxy might work if you thin it down enough to saturate but CA would be best. Go to the corner hobby shop and get a jug of the thin stuff. This is not a cheap hobby.
Staining/dying could be done if you get the outside dimensions cut and finished first and then saturate. then rough out the inside and saturate again. Slowly route until you start hitting raw wood and then repeat. In fact I'm so paranoid that I wouldn't use a router bit at all. I would find the least aggressive bit (well, not the least aggressive but you get the idea) I could find and just nibble away at it.
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You might want to try saturating the wood with CA to make it a little more plastic and consistent.
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Darn it all, I was hoping for a calendar with some good tool porn.
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That's what I was thinking. Talk about karma.
Seriously though, don't even think about letting those string ends hang out the back like that. They will snag on everything and you'll have the drill out within an hour of playing it.
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I'll pass on the walnut for now, I'm so far away from starting on that project it would be petrified wood before I got to it anyway. I'll catch you later on that.
What are the tonal properties of petrified wood?
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Funny you should bring this up. I've been leaving my current built hanging for a while now. Between moving and life's downfalls I just had no interest.
I tried getting back in the mood by working on some inlays for it but the real kick in the butt was the decision to strip off the finish on the back and do it all over again. While I'm using my new cabinet scrapers (what a great tool!!!) to rip off the old I'm testing dye on scrap.
Friends now think I've lost it, they thought the old finish was very good. I think it can be better.
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Thanks for checking. I can always get creative getting the extra inch or maybe go for two blanks and make it an extra Rubenesque four inches thick. It was a shot in the dark anyway, it seems to be kind of a tall order to get a blank that thick. Figure doesn't matter too much to me but I could live with something nice.
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Any chance you can get walnut in the range of 20x14x3"?
EDIT: Sorry, I didn't notice that you want it limited to those types of wood. Never mind.
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Sorry, I thought you wanted a diagram. If you aren't able to check with the manufacturer or dealer for more info then maybe a multimeter would help?
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There's a bunch of diagrams on the site you listed. Also you can't swing a dead cat without hitting a web site listing common diagrams like that.
Merry Christmas
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Do you like the neck on your RG? Have you went out and played every guitar in the shops? No one can tell you what kind of neck is going to work for you. I like fat necks, others like thin. I like a 12" radius or compound, some want it damn near flat. Get out there and put your paws on them all till you find a shape that you like.
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How long have you worked for Dean?
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Speaking of the pickups, they are very noisy, is that typical of an old Fender single coil?
I have Lace Sensors on my 66 Mustang so they should be quieter than the old single coils but I got a lot of noise out of those crappy switches they use. I replaced them once but they are starting to crap out again.
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Did someone's pet beaver do that?
Who Uses Woods For Inlays?
in Inlays and Finishing Chat
Posted
Very nice uncle. Is the black filler or wood?