JPL

Carvin makes some fine guitars, this DC127 is probably my number two favorite. I think they offer some of the best bang for the buck around.

The pickups in this one aren't my first choise but good enough not to rush to change them out. I do like the Holdsworth pups.

I have a Carvin with a two piece alder neck through that is very stable. It does have graphite rods added so that has some amount to do with it's strength.

Sound? It works for me.

I tried adjusting the vintage style tremelo on my strat and noticed when i retightened the claw screws one of them would not tighten like it was stripped.

Does anyone have suggestions on what might have happened?

Clueless noob.

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You could try using a bigger screw. If that fails, there is really nothing you can do except get that piece replaced. Are you sure its stripped? Like I said before, you could get a bigger size screw but it might not hold. Your better off trying to order that piece. Is it a bigsby?

Is it the screw that holds it to the body?

If it is a bigsby, what model is it?

http://www.bigsbyguitars.com/intro.html

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This is an easy fix. I'll eat my hat if the screw stripped out before the wood did.

Just take a toothpick, jam it in the hole with some good wood glue like Titebond, trim it flush and put the screw back in. You could go a step further and redrill the hole and fill it with a dowel and then redrill for the screw but the toothpick trick should be more than good enough.

There is probably a better way but I would push it back as you said and then saturate the area with CA or a thinned epoxy from the front and back to strengthen the wood fibers.

So Neil Young is a canadian, eh? . I didn't realise canada could produce such hill billies. Then again, you guys can get pretty isolated up there I suppose. They should reshoot Deliverance in the sub arctic.

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IDK man... neil young is pretty far from a hill billy... his recent stuff is all protesting environmental stuff... any of you guys seent that greendale stuff? it kinda gets on my nerves... and im a pretty big neil young fan too

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I saw the Greendale tour at Red Rocks. While I enjoyed it I won't be running out to get the DVD, it's right out there with "Trans". But that is one thing about Neil, there's no moss growing on him, he just does what he wants and trys new stuff all the time. Some of his stuff just leaves me shaking my head and wondering why he did it and other stuff is pure gold. I'm still waiting for "Prarie Wind" to grow on me but it has a few gems on it.

And Neil ain't no hillbilly, he's just a hick prairie boy.

Alex Lifeson is the only guitar god to come out of Canada. Although Randy Bachman is a fine player, in his own right.

Has Neil Young been stripped of his canukhood?

I make heavy use of my tone knobs and rarely touch the volume. For me I get more tonal variation with the tone than any kind of blend.

On my main guitar I have push pull pots so I esencially have four tone options. On the bridge I have a Q-Filter (LCR network thingy to reduce impedence) and conventional tone and the neck has two caps I can switch between. I don't really switch between the caps much but I use the bridge options all the time.

Whatever you decide to do... here's a big thumbs up!!!

What might be better than a gadget would be to just spend time with him and give him some lessons. That is something he'll never forget.

Well, PMC would probably be better suited for inlay than jewelry, it tends to be rather porous and brittle when fired. If you have a kiln it might not be too bad to work with but I think it would be better and easier to just cut sheet metal. I looked into the stuff years back and decided that the down sides outweighed the up. If I remember the stuff doesn't take a polish well due to the porosity.

does anyone know him or who he is??

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Check out post #4 in this thread

Hero worship is so cute.

I figured that was what he was saying but Perry can tend to be economical with his words at times. Just my pathetic attempt at humor.

Ok, so stew mac's hot rods are REAL easy, hense why a lot of people like them. HOWEVER, to make it even easier they offer a bit that does the width of the dado (7/32" which I find to be a WEIRD cutting diameter). However,t hey charge $20 for that bit!

Well, I just found that www.routerbits.com has a 1/4" shank, 7/32" cutting diameter bit made especially for dadoing for $13! What a steal! So I thought I'd share.

Chris

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Its actually $13.99, and the minimum postage is $4.99, so yeah, thats a pretty sweet discount!!

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Cool! Does that mean Stew Mac's shipping is free?

I think they made up for the absense of nickel, by "work-hardening" it more when they make it. Perhaps using more material and making the wire more dense as it goes through the "dies" or however they extrude the wire.

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I read somewhere about burnishing fretwire after it's installed to give it a work hardened outer layer. It was supposed to give it a much longer life. I'm not sure if that is more fantasy than science but it makes some sense.

but we wouldnt use burls or unstable veneers for extra strength on the back of a headstock now, would we?

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True, but Bassman isn't looking to strenghten the back of his headstock. He's looking into giving his bass the high-end Alembic look.

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It's not just burls that can be brittle especially for those of us just entering the dry winter season. Right now I wouldn't attempt to bend any of my veneer into such a small radius bend without treating it first. It's possible that the glue would soften most of the veneer enough but I'm not a gambling man.

If you read my post again the mention of burls was an off topic aside comment that the technique can ALSO be used for other things. Sorry if that was confusing.

veneer is thin enough to not worry about steaming

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That is often true but I wouldn't bet the farm on it. Many veneers are rather brittle and will crack or split with more than a gentle bend. Just to be safe I would mist it with water and a little glycerin and clamp it flat between two boards. After it dries it will stay flexible for a few days to a week. That also works good for flattening burls and other unstable veneers.

fitted around 20 bridge doctors to rectify sound board bellying

all had lower action at the end. all were louder. 75% at least of all the clients believed the "tone" was better. Sustain also seemed to be improved.

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I've only installed one but I found the same thing, it was like a new guitar.

To some extent all acoustics will show a little belly bulge in time unless it's braced so heavy that the top wood can't move. Proper storage and light strings may help slow it but that pot belly happens to the best of us.

I don't see any reason why you couldn't build your own, it's a beautifully simple device. Give it a try and let us know how it turns out.

While I won't recomend for or against using fabric dye I would like to point out that not all fabric dyes are created equal. Hot water dyes like RIT in the box are not durable or lightfast. It is not good for wood or fabric dying.

Cold water dyes like Dylon and Procion are as lightfast as any dye out there. I have shirts that are 18+ years old and show few signs of fading and I'm not carefull with my laundry. I had a shirt in the store front window for three years baking in the sun to demonstrate that they won't fade. I still wear that shirt.

While wood dyes have a far better collection of wood friendly colors there are nowhere near as many colors as fabric dyes. Check out the selection. They have four kinds of black! "Better Black" is the best but I never used "New Black".

I've always used a pin stuck into the nozzle as a spare cap. Keeps the glue path clear but sometimes you need a pliers to get the pin out if the tip isn't cleaned well.

"NOT FENDER..." no, really? I could of sworn that was a Strat

It sure is. It's a '72 MIJ FannyCaster.

BTW, the answer to practically every question you've asked in the last couple weeks is available in pinned topics here or in tutorials on the main site.

Hell, just about every question he's asked has been answered in the last topics he posted. I'm starting to wonder if he is just trying to push buttons.

Just pick one and do it. They're all pretty much the same, setup is a straight forward affair. You might want to get a good book or two.

That idea wont do stuff all to assist the intonation, any more than any other type of bridge/nut will.

Of course with the exception of a compensated nut.

Check Here and Here.