mj_gant
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Posts posted by mj_gant
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Aside from damage to frets from crushing....why loosen string tension? This instrument will be hard cased, then wrapped in bubble wrap, then placed in another box.
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I am shipping a guitar UPS ground from coast to coast USA. Should the guitar have string tension or not?
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Bump, anyone?
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I have an older LP junior being refretted. Is there an easy way of cutting the fret ends after the install without chipping laquer. I want to end up with a flush or partially recessed cut. No filler or removal of laquer. Just nice, clean, straight tang.
The only solution I can think of is to cut the tang to desired length and leave an overhang on the crown. After ends are tamped and glued, then cut the tops with ground nippers. Follow with dress and bevel.
Thanks in advance for any technique shares.
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All I'm saying is that don't BS saying that the EMG will sound the same no matter what kinda wood that guitar is
Relax. I don't come here to jerk people around and make false statements. By you referring to my reply as BS isn't very cool. It's just my opinion.
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I've had the 81/85 combo in several of my guitars used for metal mostly. The sound? Every guitar sounds the same. No tone from wood or construction, just that tight EMG sound. For this reason I have been slowly ebaying all of my active pickups and replacing with passive. Everything from Dimarzio PAF to Super Distortion and old Alan Holdsworth Sig pickups. The result? I can finally hear the guitar the way it was suppose to be. Each piece now has it's own character. I wont go on an EMG bashing, but I can tell you that IMO they steal a guitars soul. If you have one of those acrylics, EMG may be a good bet though.
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This is from an earlier thread
Here are some "pro" setups taken from Dan Erlewine's Guitar Player Repair guide.
Malmsteen: 4/64 string height at 17th fret and .008 relief at 7th
Clapton: 3/64-4/64 string height at 17th with .010 relief at 7th
SRV: 4/64 string height at 17th fret and .012 relief at 7th
Here is Gibson flat top factory setup specs:
Maximum relief at 7th: .012
Action at 12th: 6/64 low E and 4/64 high E
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Alot of the products out there break down the factory grease in sealed pots. Always best to try and work out the dirt by rapidly working the pot first. Out of all the stuff available Deoxit is a safe bet, mind the laquers.
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Duncan appears to prefer 250k for both - try it, and if it's not bright enough, switch to 500k for the volume.
Will do. Thanks once again LoveK.
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well buy one 500k, that will at least give you a nice boost for the bridge, and then i'd try both a 500 and a 250 on the bridge, mid and neck to see what you get? although as i guess you're installnig into a strat, you mgiht not have enough room for another voluem if you wanna keep the tone pots too...in which case you coudl remove one tone and have all threee on one, or try and find a 250k dual concentric pot for the tone knobs (not sure if these exist :s)
It is a strat. I am keeping the VTT config. I guess I'll just stay with the 250k pots. Duncan doesn't mention otherwise.
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Installing a set (3) of hotrails. Should I keep the original 250k pots or replace them with 500k since these are essentially humbuckers. Did a search, sorry if this has been covered.
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If you really want those choices hardwired, it's über-simple! Look at a normal Tele diagram - you'll notice that each pickup is connected to 2 lugs on one side of the switch. Simply disconnect the bridge pickup's connecton from the lug closest to the center of the switch, connect the middle pickup to that lug, connect one tone pot to the bridge pickup and the other to the neck pickup, and you're done!
Thank you for the diagram LoveK. You all rule. I thought it may be as simple. I will use your diagram LoveK and report any problems. Thank you again all PG heads!!!
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This guit has 3 single coils. The guy wants a 3 way strat switch that will select bridge in position 1--neck AND middle in position 2---neck in position 3
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Is this possible with a 3way strat lever switch and 3 single coils?
Position1 bridge pup
Position2 middle and neck
Position3 neck
I don't think it's possible since 3 way levers are made for two pickups, but if anyone has a mod idea, please let me know.
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That's right. We do RA#'s all day long. The only thing your dealer needs to do is get the RA number and ship it. Which you pay for. No big deal. Take Jnewman advice and find a new dealer. If your a teen, you may want to bring your parents with you to the store.
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It is under the warranty, and the dealer's claiming that it was mis-used, voiding the warranty, but they're gonna just glue it back together out of "curtousy." (The dude who owns the dealer has a rep for being an asshole so...) I don't know if I should just let them glue it back together or If I should expect a new guitar as a replacement.
Though thanks for the info guys, helps a heap.
Ask him to call Gibson for an RA#. It would be customary for you to pay $10.00 shipping to Gibson. I work for an authorized EPI-Gibson shop. If the store that you bought the guitar at will not get off thier butts and just call for an RA....I would call Gibson myself.
I would also refuse a repair by any "in house" tech.
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I am getting ready to level an old Fender 7.25 radius maple neck. Could someone please explain the technique used to reduce the "fretting out" when you bend on high strings at the 15th fret and above? Here is a bit from the guitar player repair guide, however it is not clear to me
"The quickest fix for vintage Fenders which buzz when you bend, is to relevel the existing frets until the straight edge sits flat on the top three string lies(E and B strings)"
String lies? Is this like turning it into a compound radius? I am confused but not dumb. Please help.
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thats why you can take a piece of plywood put a neck on it and a set of emg's and sound close to every one else with emg's.
This is so true. They steal an instrument of any sonic characteristic attributed to build, design or materials. I believe EMG's are the work of the devil.
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This is in reference to a new strat which sports a shoddy job at the factory of cleaning the laquer off the frets during manufacture
That's just how fender does thier maple necks.
Fretted, dressed, sprayed, and then surface dress to remove nitro from tops.
Frank B, I wouldn't touch it unless I had to remove it for a refret.
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I own one of those pricey diamond files from stewmac. The curved one that is 300 grit. I don't like it. It doesn't give the profile needed for some common fret sizes. IMO. Seems to work well with skinny strat fret style.
I too use a trianular file.
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Wasn't sure where to post this. Does anyone have a supplier recommendation for tolex and amp corners, handles, etc...?
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Hey guys, what kind of wood a Tele is made from? I'm into country/southern rock(among other things) and I really dig the sound of a Tele.
Thanks
Mark
wood
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Yup, Dave at http://www.fretsonthenet.com should be able to help you. I got an oversized set for a Charvel and they are WAY better then anything you can buy from a supplier, not to mention, they were obsolete. His work is very reasonable too.
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Thanks Crafty! I'm very excited about this piece now...I actually got it for 80 bucks. It does say mexican as well. Next time I string it, I'll rip off the pickguard and have a look for that inspector date.
Shipping Guitar
in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat
Posted
Thank you, I always thought there was something to do with airplanes and loosening the strings.