Bertbart

I have used dried cow bones from a pet supplier but never from raw bones. You have raised a good question. I would guess they would need to be cooked so make some soup and set them out to dry. LOL

Here you go:

http://news.thomasnet.com/fullstory/6347/920

Thanks for the kind words. The guitar is normal thickness for a tele, but the perspective is a bit odd in the pic. The body is alder (and the back is a burst of black on a brown stain) and the top is maple. It is chambered on both sides and quite light. I have a jamb (I think that's the spelling) gun that I got as a gift and am going to use when my Stew Mac lacquer gets delivered in thhe next day or so. The thin part by the neck cavity is pretty much a mistake in routing out the body shape. When I did the neck pocket there was the peninsula left over. I still have quite a bit to learn. When you guys spray, how long can the lacquer stay in the gun? Does it have to be cleaned out after each coat? Each day? Couple days?

Thanks again

I keep and extra cup for running raw thinner through the gun after each day of use. The laquer can sit in the cup for several days provided you put the gun back on the cup and shove a tooth pick in the air bleed hole in the top of the cup.

But you said you are using a jam gun and those don't hold much laquer so if I were you I'd clean cup and gun every day.

As others have said that top looks killer.

I have bought a copy of a Gibson SG guitar - Branded Westbury - It is a nice guitar but tuning is poor. I have put on the best set of strings I can buy in my local store in Dublin. I can tune it to play a perfect Chord, say G, but then if I play C it is slightly out? Someone mentioned it might be intonation?

Is there any onyone out there that has had the problem and fixed it? If so how?

Anyone one who can suggest the best means of tuning an SG exibiting this problem?

Anyone who knows about intonation releting to the SG? Setting up the bridge adjustments? I have an elecronic tuner.

Can anybody help me?

Tune each string open with your tuner. Then fret the string at the octave (12th fret) If your tuner says the string is sharpe then move the bridge saddle away from the nut thereby making the string distance longer from the nut. Re-tune that same string open and check again by fretting the octave. Keep doing it until the string is in tune open and at the octave.

Now obviously the inverse is true if the string fretted at the octave is flat...then move the saddle toward the nut thereby shortening the string distance from the nut.

It is always best to press harder when you fret the octave than you intend to when you play. What this does is make you set the harmonics slightly flat. All fretted instruments are a compensation and can never really play everywhere on the neck in tune. It is better to have your guitar set up a few cents flat than dead on or sharpe. It helps when chording and when playing single notes because you can compensate for flat with vibrato but if anything is sharpe it is displeasing to the ear.