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P90

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Everything posted by P90

  1. On one guitar I did a long time ago, I drilled 3 holes acroos the top of the nut w countersinks, and used screws to attach it into the slot. This made it very easy to remove later. I didn't notice any diff in sound compared to gluing it. I think the Earvana Strat nut is kinda like this.
  2. it has a 1/4" blade, which wanders pretty easily Hmmm. I dont have a table saw, so I'd likely use this small bandsaw for the necks and fingerboards too... which need to have straight cuts. Can you get guides similar to a table saw (that you slide the wood piece along) to get a straight cut? Or will it tend to wander even with that? Thanks.
  3. In the past I've been able to fenegle ways to use other peoples large (14" ?) bandsaws. I see some of these 9" bench-top band saws with 1/2hp or so motors for around $100. Will they reasonably cut through 1.75" hard rock maple? (It doesn't have to be super-fast cutting like a pro 14" bandsaw, but not pushing the saw to its limits either)
  4. That Trem-King looks interesting! A question - do the strings actually slide forward and back over the teflon (graphtech) part of the saddle? (similar to how the strings moved over the rollers on a Kahler) If so, does the teflon material work as good or better than rollers?
  5. Those of you pressing them in, you're using one of those tabletop-size arbor presses? (about 1/2 ton size or so)
  6. Oh wait... Stewmac sells a 660mm template too... Doh! (Stewmacs miter/saw combo sure costs much less than LMI's .... )
  7. SwedishLuthier - Thanks! I looked again at the LMI site, and sure enough, there's a 660mm template. #SPFS3 (assuming: inches x 25.4 = mm .... so that would be 26" x 25.4 = 660.4mm... right, anyone?) OK... who's miter/saw/template system is better... StewMacs or LMI's? (If the answer is StewMac, will the LMI 660mm template work in the Stewmac miter?)
  8. I see that Stewmac and LMI both sell a fret miter system with templates... http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting_suppl...30.html#details http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/thirdproducts....Slotting+System (I made a 26" scale in the past, but did it with pencil and a yardstick ) 2 questions... Do the templates both essentially work on the same principle? It looks there are notches in the template which a pin on the miter slots to. How hard would it be to make a 26" scale template? (nobody sells that) I guess I could get a blank from LMI and use the online calculator from Stewmac. What type of saw is best to cut the notches?
  9. Every headstock presents its share of compromises, advantages and disadvantages, and I'm not personally against anyone of them (except for scarf-jointed necks, they just look cheap to me). For the neck I've been working on I chose the Fender style, partly because that's a bit easier for me. Yea... I like the straight Fender style because of simplicity... and aesthetics. I think what I might do is sorta in between... most scoops go about 1/4" down (not counting the fretboard). Since I like a 5/8" thick neck (not counting fretboard) and 1/2" is the typical headstock thickness... maybe what I'll do is just a very minor 1/8" scoop (again, not counting the fretboard).
  10. Jockson.. are you using just one block for a continual radius... or multiple blocks for a compound radius?
  11. A loooooong time ago when I made my first neck, I made the headstock just a straight continuation of the neck wood. There was no "scoop" like Fender headstocks to lower the tuners for a better angle. The fretboard provided a little height, and I just used a home-made string retainer bar just past the nut to increase the string angle. After that neck, I did the Gibson-style downward angle thing on subsequent necks. After this past week of looking at the Zachary guitar threads, I'm kinda warming to that look of an "unscooped" straight headstock... not neccesarily the "samurai" shape from the front, but how it looks from a side angle. And string retainers/trees make for a decent angle. So would a Floyd Rose nut. Does anyone else make their headstock this way? Any opinions?
  12. Since this seems to be the never-ending Zach guitar thread, could I just pop one question in here: They mostly seem to have 2 pickups, one vol, and 2 switches. Are those 2 switches simply to switch each respective pickup between single/dbl coil mode? If so, then are those 2 pickups wired in paralel to the ONE vol control? (essentially both pickups are always on, and there's no way to adjust the relative vol of each one?)
  13. You might find this thread helpful: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=16098
  14. I cant believe you can fret the board by any other means except with glue. Phenolic chips easily if you have ever tried drilling any. So is there a problem with the barbs on the tang of the fretwire? Must they be ground down?
  15. Update... I was doing a search on Google and I came upon an old usenet post from 1993... which said that GraphTech nuts/saddles are made from a material called "Graphlon" which apparently is a mix of graphite and teflon, and was popular for a while among other manufacturers for making nuts. (there's some pictures of a Peavey around which have a black nut) Anyone know anything about Graphlon?
  16. Obviously Delrin w teflon is going to be softer than metal, but Graphtech is already doing it with their saddles, so it must sorta work I'm just still curious if Graphtech uses Garolite w teflon or what? And whats stronger/more slippery.... teflon Delrin or teflon Garrolite? (both available at Mcmaster)
  17. This is one of the most interesting guitars I ever built and it is also one of the best. The action is great, the tone is unbelievable, the neck is super fast, tuning stability is as good as it gets. In short, everything just worked out great on this guitar. This amazingly figured top is from Ikea Furnishings. I bought one of their unfinished end tables for $15 and I can get three guitar tops from it. What a shame that they would use such amazing "tone-wood" for their cheap furniture. Its a sacrilege. I guess Zachary also attended the Rogets Thesaurus School of Advertising too!
  18. Well. consider this.... most guitars in the retail catalogs I get in the mail (Musicians Friend, etc) seem to be in the $500 - $1000 range.... whereas most of the custom guitars on these luthier sites are something like $1500 - $3000... waaaaay more. If one could build a guitar with decent features but without the high-end touches, with a price tag of about $1000 ... would Ebay be the place for that? Or what would be about the highest price point for Ebay for an unknown builder? $1000? $1200? $1500?
  19. I bought 2 phenolic fret-board slabs from Luthier's Mercantile back in the early 90's. It was 1/4" thick and very stiff. Well if there are consistancy issues with Garolite.... lets turn attention to the Norplex "Black Micarta" MC844G I mentioned in post #12 of this thread. Since that stuff is expressly stated as being for musical instrument fretboards.... does anyone have any idea of where to buy a piece? I Googled and no luck so far.
  20. ihockey - come to think of it, theres probably no need to make the whole saddle/nut out of Delrin... just mill out the part where the string goes and make a DelrinAF insert to put there (kinda like what the Ferraglides do). The whole point is not to defeat the purpose of a dbl-locking trem, just provide some string-break prevention over the tiny area where the string does go. demiurge - it would strictly be for parts on the guitar.. not the hardware aftermarket. Which brings up another question... does the Luthier even HAVE to mention FR? Can't he just say the guitar has a "double locking trem system"? Is there a licensing issue if he *doesn't* mention FR? What would be a good strategy?
  21. Suppose a luthier buys a FR trem from Stewmac or wherever to mount on a guitar that he's building and will try to sell (public "gallery" sale, not a custom-private sale) Now suppose he has the ability in his shop to machine out of DelrinAF (teflon) the saddles and the nut (just the "cradle" part of the nut, not the clamps). The point is that the places where the strings come in contact, the metal parts are replaced by Delrin AF... not unlike what Graphtech is sorta doing. Its still mostly the same FR trem he bought from Stewmac/wherever... but with his own custom shop DelrinAF saddles and nut "cradle". Is there a licensing issue with Floyd Rose now?
  22. Jon - yea, I looked through Ebay stores and did a search on "custom guitars" or just "guitars" and there didn't seem to be a lot of the type of luthiers that were in that other thread I mentioned. Cherokee- I did some Googling, but couldn't find any article like that, so if you still have the link.... Otherwise, just to bump this up... I'm curious how these luthiers sell their guitars... mostly through the website? Or personal networking? Just curious.
  23. Hmmm... not good.... For a 3/8" x 24" x 12" sheet XX = paper laminate $27 CE = canvas laminate $42 LE = linen laminate $58 I'm curious how the linen version would compare to ebony? (The smallest piece I can find seems to be about $20)
  24. Demiurge... know how I said its REALLY HARD to come up with something that hasn't been done before? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Gizmo http://www.othermachines.org/blint/gizmo.shtml
  25. Mattia just said what I've been thinking about this thread... its REALLY HARD to come up with something that hasn't been done before! And sometimes coming up with something, isn't even good enough until someone finds a good use for it. Consider Seth Lovers humbuckers... what it really took for them to take-off was Jim Marshall creating an amp that had a good mid-scoop which worked well with humbuckers, and then Eric Clapton (Bluesbreakers) to show how good a humbucker+Marshall could sound. The rest is history! One invention that I'm surprised never took off: do a search on "Bill Edwards Finger-Tite nut". I had a Kahler for years and it was nice to clamp the strings w/o allen wrenchs. If someone could come up with an improved version of Bill Edwards clamp system... for nut or tremolo... that might work! Or not
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