tubab0y

Sounds a bit pricier to me, I have tons of scrap wood sitting around. And if you don't know how to work with veneers, make sure to look it up and do research, or it'll most likely come out wrong. It's not easy.

Book matching is simply aesthetic.

So wait a couple of days. It won't kill you.

The Kahler ones are under $200 each, and those are definitely worth the money you'll pay for them.

Madrone 5.2 sweet ??? I have a Kestral RT700, all it needs are some frets and strings.

Maybe High modulis CF will make a showing some day soon It's only a matter of time

Only a 5.2? We sold a 6.9 Pro the other day. Now that is a crazy bike. Excessive for just about anyone.

Leave it out in the cold and stick your tongue to the neck that would get a laugh. Looks pretty but the aluminum nut is sort of a question mark in my view. I wonder if its clear coated so you don't get aluminum residue on your hands? I am still waiting for all carbon necks, aluminum is so old school LOL.

Aluminum oxidizes if left raw.

Anyway, CF necks have been around for at least 15 years now (Moses, anyone?)

That is true but carbon fiber technology has changed drastically over the last 3 years as has its molding process. Same goes for aluminum and the ability to hydro-form parts. I have a minor degree in bicycle frame envy. I would not want a 15 year old carbon bike frame given how far technology has come. Just because someone like Parker (who I worked with long before his business venture) made some god awful attempt (my opinion only) at it does not make it retro. Anyway I rather have the bike frame. Also CF is lighter and stronger than aluminum especially low end 6061. I am sure it does not have the movement issues aluminum does either.

I am now going to part the seas and bring my bike frame across the water. Now where did I put my staff, LOL

CF has come a long way in the last few years. I'd take an OCLV guitar any day of the week. I work at a Trek bike store and that stuff is crazy. The OCLV Red is simply amazing.

Yeah, if you take your time and let it cure, the dupli-color is perfectly fine stuff.

Do pianists tune their own piano? Are mechanics lazy for using automated diagnostics? Are programmers lazy for running automated test cases instead of always clicking every single button of their program? There's a time and a place for automation, and if it were cheaper, this is one of them. Very very few of us would leave it off our guitar if it cost the same as standard tuners and worked properly and without fuss.

I know it's on a whole different scale, but tuning your own instrument or not doesn't really say anything about you as a guitarist. For cheaper than 500 quid, I'd definitely let my guitar tune itself! When I tune my guitar for recording, I want it done right, which means breaking out a tuner or virtual tuner anyhow... might as well let the robot do it.

Wes inadvertently raises an interesting point, though...

Imagine knocking your guitar over or into something and you smack those tuners? That's gotta be an expensive repair. !

Actually, in our jazz band our pianist tunes it. It's a fairly crappy piano, so it's going out of tune all the time. Hence, constant retuning.

That's an interesting idea. Looks like it could definitely work.

How does cherry work as a neck wood? My local lumberyard has tons of it and it's cheaper than maple or mahogany or anything exotic. Last time I went in I saw a few nice pieces of quartersawn but didn't feel like taking the risk.

EDIT: forgot to say, great job. Very classy.

It's looking good, but I would recommend trying to get it to look more irregular and do multiple colors. It looks a bit fake to me. And when you do switch colors, do it a little off of the other one.

I hadn't thought about the issue of keeping them flat. Yeah, I already got them and the shafts should be long enough to include the cherry.

So the guitar I'm currently working on will have four layers on the body wings- 1" maple, 1/4" cherry, imbuya veneer, and etimoe veneer (in that order.) My idea- rout the basic control cavity into the maple, that plus the channels for pickup wires and bridge ground into the cherry, and nothing into the two veneers on top and use that to mount the pots/switches. Sound like it would work?

I have a guitar made by Peavey made entirely out of maple except for the fretboard. All maple would be easy enough to do.

Yeah, go for a Kahler.

I'm a big fan of plain wood. Great work!

There's a reason I don't use purpleheart- the only place that stocks it around here charges $15 a BF.

Yeah, I guess a 1/2" might be a bit much, but most of the places I get supplies from know nothing about guitar building and don't leave it nearly thick enough for a fretboard.

For a guitar, usually 19" long or so, 3" wide, and maybe a 1/2" thick.

Alsa does a spraycan chrome finish. It's $40 a can, so make sure you know what you're doing first.

Looking good!

Great job! And yes, I'm the same person as on UG.

One legitimate thing I could think of would be hardening floyd rose type bridges (the knife edges) and the posts.

Tried www.ibanezrules.com?

The problem with chroming wood is that as the guitar ages, the paint is absorbed a bit into the guitar body. This isn't noticeable for most paint jobs, but with a mirror/chrome finish, after a couple of years, it will look like crap. That is why you don't see any non-custom guitars with mirror paint jobs. The best alternative is to make a full body "pick guard" out of cheap plastic mirror.

Wouldn't doing a thick layer of primer help out with that problem?