jesusofthearbys

I'm building a guitar, a few references suggested that I buy a multimeter.

My question- what features on a multimeter should I be looking for? (include numbers in volts, watts, ohms and such)

Thanks

Ok thanks guys. This has answered all I need to know... thanks

I'm testing some scrap basswood now to see how it finishes and how paints are compatible with a few of my finishes. From the little experience I have with spraying on the basswood, I would say it does not need to be grain filled. I am sanding it to 400 grit before applying primer.

There are many ways to go about the finish. You can use aerosol cans or a compressor with a spray gun.

Thanks... try to tell me how it turns out.

I'm going to be making a solidbody out of basswood. I was wondering how I would go about finishing it to have the same solid color as just any solid color Fender.

1) Do I have to use grain filler on the basswood for the solid color?

2) What should I use to apply this kind of finish? Please list what products I will need, or brands you like...

I'm wiring a very simple 1 Humbucker 1 Vol to a monojack. I'm figuring I'll ground everything from the back of the pot to the post of the TOM bridge I'm using. Using a SH4 JB Seymour-Duncan, also using the Seymour-Duncan wiring diagram.

My question- if I use conductive shielding paint to shield/protect the electronics, (am I/ how am I) supposed to ground this paint?

Holes for the tuner posts are too big, giving the wobblies. Standard size is usually 10mm diameter, double check the dimensions of each (hole and tuner post). You can also find tuner specs and dimensions at Stewmac.

I don't drill holes for the mounting screws, I like a nice tight fit. After locating where the holes should be I just take a dart from my dartboard and punch it into the wood maybe 1/8" deep. Thats enough for the screw to grab securely without splitting the surrounding wood.

Yeah, thanks for the help but I fixed the problem after extensive tightening.

By the way, I find it easier to drill a small amount (like 1/4") and then just screw the screw in the rest of the way (remaining 1/8" or so). There's also a tool for what you're using your dart as... an awl.

i'm a bit confused. How is the tuner moving in the hole? It's rotating in the hole?

It's hard to explain but ok...

The tuner is stuck down, but you can sort of pivot it a little bit, the mounting screw as the pivot center.

So it doesn't move "up and down" perse, just slides (a pivoting slide) from side to side.

Do you have the bushings screwed onto the tuners from the top of the peghead and tightened, for that matter? Sounds like the holes in the headstock may be a bit big for the tuners you're using, but snugging up the bushings might be just what you need. If not, you may have to use some sort of spacer to fill in the space between the tuner's stringpost and the inside of the hole or fill and redrill the holes.

peace,

russ

K well... I've tightened them a lot, so I'll try some sort of spacer. I have a feeling though that it's not the space, as this happens on only a few of the tuners, not all.

Ok, so I have a telecaster neck which I got off of ebay and some Gotoh tuners, I drilled the holes for the small mounting screws for the tuners, screwed the tuners down, etc.

The thing is is that I am still capable of wiggling the tuners a little bit. Not a huge amount, a very tiny little pivot. I have to use some force for this to happen, I don't think it can happen by just laying it down.

MY QUESTION: Is this bad and if so how do I fix it?

A similar topic seems to be posted by sc0tty1 just a little bit earlier, but I have a more specific question,

What is grounding, and how do you do ground something (for example, to the bridge)?