ibreakemineedtobuildem

No it's not Wenge.

My local wood guy has some wood he calls "Benge"It looks a lot like bocote to me.He doesn't know anything about it.I've looked on the net and can't find anything about it.Can anyone tell me?

It's $12 Canadian per BF

I'm building an Explorer with a Mahogany body that will be tung oiled along with the neck.I don't want to use maple or mahogany for the neck,I was thinking of using padouk or purpleheart to build a one piece neck.Has anyone ever used these woods alone in a neck?(not a laminate)What about solid Bubinga?These are aout the only woods I have access to for now.

So,tell me what to do

Buy a boss me30.You get a lot of bonus effects.It got me by for a while,and it wasn't expensive.As Jivin and Maestro said,It's the amp.I use my old 1991 peavy bandit for metallica stuff.Hell,I'd look for a used one of those suckers myself.

Check out the article taken from Guitar player 1992 interview with the man himself.2nd one down on that page

http://www.amptone.com/g153.htm

I have made a mahogany body from locally bought mahogany.

I made an almost exact body as the first with mahogany bought from a specialty hardwood place as opposed to my local cabinet maker.

The second body is almost a third heavier and much tighter grain.If I were to keep the necks,electronics,etc..the same on both,what would be the difference in sound with the heavier body?

Not to hijack,but I have a question.Would a quartersawn piece finished in tung oil be more likely to warp left or right as opposed to up bow or back bow?If so,wouldn't a flatsawn piece be good considering it would be more likely to warp up or back which could be corrected by a truss adjustment?Not that flat is better than quartered,just a question.

Thanks Drak.I'm looking for maple for now.

I'm planning on doing a couple pickguards with quilt veneer.The place I know of only has it in bookmatched sets.Does anyone know of any place in the US or Canada?

That is very,very cool.In the light it jumps out at you,let alone in the dark.

Thanks a lot.Those keys are a walnut color pearloid or something like pearloid.

Thanks soapbar.

I have a neck that is installed with a shim under the heel to give it a bit of upwards action.The frets were leveled not under tension.Yet I have slight rattles up to the 12th fret.I gave my truss rod a turn to give a little upbow and the rattles are gone.Is this a correct way of fixing the problem?

My neck and fingerboard were perfectly flat.

Its pretty comfortable.Not as much as a real strat.I did the arm contour and tummy contour but they don't seem to show up in the pics.I'll take another pic..I debated doing the roundover but ended up not.Just left a tiny rounded edge.I have to weigh the thing cause it's heavy.

That finish makes it feel like leather

Last night I played that sucker for hours.I needed that strat sound.

Didn't Fender build a Walnut strat in the 80s?I bet it was cool.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v116/Ibr...ldem/strat5.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v116/Ibr...em/24a8ce27.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v116/Ibr...em/d10c3e31.jpg

I messed up one of the bolts placement,but I guess I can live with it.Still no truss cover,pickguard screws or jack plate on the side yet.I plan on putting quilt veneer on a pickguard to match the headstock.

Semi hollow.It was so heavy that I routed out the whole shape of the pickguard.

It sounds awsome.The neck and middle PU are from a 2002 strat.The bridge is a Squire that will be replaced.It has more snap than most strat,but not as bright as I would have thought.

The neck is finished in polymerized tung oil and then covered in a mineral oil beeswax finish,as is the body.Open grain.It will dent if you look at it wrong,but I don't mind.The finish feels great.

thanks guys.I slotted it and it came out easily.Looks a lot nicer than a plug.

I have a broken bolt in the heel of a neck.It's just about flush.Any ideas on how to get it out?I was thinking of using a plug cutting bit and cutting it out then filling it with a plug.Think that would be okay?

I've got a couple Gibson spaced pickups that I want to use.I want to use a hardtail bridge.Anyone know of Gibson spaced hardtail bridges?

Ever try the Armor Coat Lacquer?It's pretty good and the cans spray the the most even fan outside of a gun.

I'm building a bolt on where the neck sits almost like a neck through.The fretboard is almost level with the body.Can I use a tune a matic with this set up without having a super high action?

Don Ross

I am finishing a neck usin Lee Valley high lustre polymerized tung oil.Being that I am wiping it on,it needs to be sanded between coats because of little imperfections that happen with wiping.Before sanding it looks just as good as lacquer.What do I use to buff it out?Could I use the same stuff we use on lacquer?

I just completed a maple neck.I had a minwax brazillian rosewood gelstain that I tested on a scrap and I liked the look.So I put it on my neck and the stain looked good except that all kinds of little spots appeared.They weren't nicks or sanding marks.They looked like 5 oclock shadow.When I sanded the stain back the spots were still there and won't sand out.They are blue in color,wherever that comes from out of rosewood.Now my maple neck looks like some diseased piece of wood.

Anyone know what this is?

what's a good wax to top it off with?

OOPS.Very Long Day.I meant the neck pocket routing template,and when I make my neck what are the nut and last fret widths supposed to be for those templates.

Does anyone know what the nut and last fret widths are supposed to be for those templates?I can measure the last fret spot on the template,but the nut measurement would also come into play because of the angle it creates could be different than the template angle.Right?