djhollowman

How wide and high must the Carbon Fibre Rods be to have stability effect in a neck? I only seem to find 1x6mm material locally. Are you in UK? I would also be interested to know much more about carbon fibre rods....... DJ

I'm not familiar with scrapers at all. Do you mean eg. cabinet scrapers like these? What I lack in experience I make up for in willingness (and open-mindedness!) so I'm eager to try this out on some spare wood!! Therefore I would welcome any help regarding scrapers. thanks, DJ

thanks man, that sounds like a sensible suggestion! DJ

36th fret - you sure??

Hi Doug, Yes I have, and it makes very little difference, sadly! The problem is that the dust is so fine it gets everywhere, and it gets rubbed into the sandpaper and then rubbed into the maple. Even if I hold the neck so that the ebony dust is falling away from the maple, the black dust is still present on the paper. Any other thoughts anyone?? Thanks, DJ

Hi all, I'm currently sanding the edges of my ebony fretboard, which is already glued to my maple neck (which has yet to be shaped) I'm noticing the ebony sanding dust is starting to discolour the maple. Is this going to be a problem? Will it come off, and leave the maple nice and clean? I was assuming I could sand both woods together, and that the maple would clean up afterwards. I thought it would be the best way to ensure a straight edge along the neck and 'board. Should I rig up a straightedge and use a router bit? Appreciate any help. DJ

Imagine how it feels for noobs like me then!!!

+1 although you say you think it will make things easier, I'd be worried that it would make things more complicated actually! A basic bridge is very easy to source, very cheap to buy, very easy to install, and very easy to set up and adjust. (...and that's a lot of "very"s!) My advice would be to have a serious re-think - it is, of course, your guitar, and it's what you want that matters DJ

Hello, and welcome! I think it would help if you could explain a little more, and even link to a picture of something like what you have in mind. Most solid body bridges are adjustable, in terms of height (for action) and string length (for intonation) Do you mean you want to make a bridge like an acoustic guitar? DJ

I also really like the look of the cover with magnets and matching grain. Loved the photos in this topic, J! The matching grain is obviously a highly desirable effect, but the magnetic cover intrigues me. Is the idea behind the use of magnets purely to avoid visible screw heads? I mean, how often are you going to be opening the cavity? I guess if you have active pickups you'll need access to change the battery every so often! Just curious as to how this method came to be used. DJ

Thanks a lot, that's good advice, and very useful! I'm currently sanding it flat using 60grit paper on the narrow edge of a 24" level, and this is working very well. I see what you mean about not forgetting about the non-central edges of the 'board. I scribbled all over the face with a pencil, to show up where it was low. My only concern now is that the 12th fret inlay [a beautiful chinese symbol, done on a CNC machine] is where the highest point is, just hoping I don't have to go right thru it with the sanding! Should be OK. After a few more hours I should be where I need to be - I really do see the value of getting it flat at this stage! DJ

Yeah - those aluminium ones stew-mac sell look the business. definately on my wish list http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Sanding_...ing_Blocks.html you can use something like this if you already have a radiused board http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Special_...d_Levelers.html you just need to be carefull not to change the radius, straight sanding along the length only. You can probably find something else locally that will do just as good a job, like the carpenters level setch suggested. Yes, I've seen those at stewmac's site. I had been trying to source everything locally cos of the delivery costs, but soon I'll have enough items required to make it worthwhile placing an order from them! Wondering if my local engineering firm could provide me with a steel box-section that would be flat/straight enough. I have a 24" level as well, could try that! Thanks Wez!

This guy makes pickups with wooden veneers on the front for ornamentation. Novelty? Really? You would never guess, would you!? Can't see PRS making these, right enough..... Actually, I have a book with a little bit about this one - Eastwood Rochdale. DJ

ahhh...I see! And yeah, I know what you mean.....it's all TTGXCPUI77's really though, isn't it??!! DJ (It's my topic, I'm allowed to deviate...)

thanks Wez! That's just exactly what I thought!! Hmm...........gonna have to make a radius block after all! Thought I'd get away with that by buying a pre-radiused 'board.....knickers! Ah well, better get on with it................ So, would a radius block which is as long as the fretboard be the real answer?? DJ

Photos: To be honest, these pics have made it look worse than it is! DJ

Hi all, Reckon I already know the answer to this one, but here goes: I have glued my fretboard onto my neck, and when looking down the 'board I notice it's not completely flat and level. There are several undulations along the length of it, sometimes most of a millimetre of difference. They are visible as gaps along the length when I hold my straight edge along the 'board. (The straight edge is totally straight, I did check BTW!) The 'board was bought pre-slotted and pre-radiused. It's made of ebony. The neck surface was TOTALLY flat before glueing. I think it's possible that my clamping was not a total success! It's also possible that the board was not entirely flat when I bought it! Anyway, I'm left wondering how flat the 'board surface must be before fretting........and I'm pretty sure the answer will be: very flat. I just can't see how the fret levelling would be able to compensate for that amount of variation in the 'board surface. Are all fretboards entirely flat and level before fretting?? (Perhaps you could get away with a very minor deviation from straight??) I don't have another fretboard without frets in it to look at for a comparison either. I have other necks to look at, but all you see are the frets when you try to look down the length. So, assuming I will now have to do some sanding/levelling: what's the best way to get the 'board level? Appreciate anything helpful....... Could post photo if rqd. DJ

Thanks for the comments guys! Yeah, I have heard of micromesh, must get some now!! CA=Cyano Acrylate=superglue?????? Is this right?? What does the OT bit mean? Thanks, DJ

Thanks fellas! I've requested the Carvin DVD, which will be of interest anyway, but as I'm in UK I'm not sure if I'll get it! Any other thoughts anyone?? DJ

Hi all! Hope this is the right area to post this in.... I'm finishing an ebony fretboard, and I'd like some opinions on how best to get a nice sheen on it. I've just finished wet-sanding it with 1200 carbide paper, and it looks quite good - I would just like it to have a bit more sheen. It's lovely and flat, and very smooth to the touch. I only really want to improve the appearance of it now. Also, what would darken it a bit? It appears to have become lighter after sanding. Appreciate any help. Thanks, DJ

If you're in UK try Craft Supplies. But get their printed catalogue - their website is almost useless! I bought an ebony board from them; it's 25.5" scale length, 24 fret, pre-radiused to 16" and pre-slotted. It's 69mm wide, so it's just wide enough! They don't mention width (or whether they're to suit 6-strings or 7-strings) but if you ask for one wide as possible you should be fine. Also, ask them to pack it well - I had one arrive broken, which was a pity since it was a couple of mm wider than the replacement!! Hope this helps! DJ

I think he's taking it in good spirit! DJ

haha! Actually this tremologic-thingy looks a bit like Justins teeth! +1, I don't really get this either. 61st post! Woohoo! DJ

Thanks for your input fellas! Yeah, I'm happy to hear that final strength isn't the issue here, cos that's kinda what I thought - I mean, it would be glued onto the neck along the entire length if it was gonna be used again obviously. The break is quite clean: I mean it has a slightly ragged edge, but at least it runs nicely along the fret slot and not diagonally! Good thinking about the binding! I've never bound anything before, although I do know how to do it. The short scale idea appeals as well. It was a 24 fret 'board before the break, so now it would become a 22 fret job! Am I right in thinking I could simply measure nut to 12th, and use that distance again to calculate the bridge position? Bearing in mind it's pre-slotted, would all the remaining frets be in the right positions?? It was a 25.5" scale length before the break. Do you mean slice it very thinly to get enough out of it? Thanks all! DJ

Ahh.......makes sense! Thanks Wez!