djhollowman

Yes pretty much, I get my borax from boots, if you look in the household cleaning section you get boxes of it there. If you cant find it then ask, it will be in a white box with some blue stripes if i remember correctly. I dont use the paints they talk about though, I tried them and found them to dry far to quickly and blotch up. The humbrol stuff seems to be the best i have found sofar.

In my pictures you will see many differant swirls, most of them do NOT have white undercoats, think about how colours interact and try things out, the blue mc's have a light blue undercoat, the yellow/red/orange have a yellow undercoat and so on, you can get some really nice effects if you just try things out.

I first put coloured undercoats on when I tried the GMC, and found the white showing through, so i sprayed it green first and it came out how i wanted as the green didnt show through the black, it just made the green come out in differant shades (As shown in teh video)

Hope this helps. I may be doing some more in teh summer and if i do i will write my tutorial which I have been trying to do foor a while.

Please help me with this!

I've had several goes at swirling now, and here are the problems:

1. The ratio of borax to water - is there a rough formula?

2. Is the water temp important?

3. Some colours just go thick and blobby, and won't really swirl on the water

4. How do you get the water droplets off after you've pulled it out?

5. How do you finish the completed paintjob? Do you sand after swirling?

Greatly appreciate any help with this!

Thanks,

DJ

BTW - you can get borax on eBay!

Oh man, I am having EXACTLY the same problem!!!

Hoping someone can help us here!

DJ

Here's some I've done so far:

FIRST POST!!

I've done and it's a pain.

The way I did it was to make a wooden shim for the new nut. The shim had a half-angled, half-flat bottom to match the headstock angle, as the new nut was a good deal wider than the old and "took off" of the headstock angle. I then cut the shim just behind the new nut and painted the cut section to match the headstock face, and painted and finished the sides of the shim to match the neck. It wasn't imperceptible from nearer than five feet, but it did the job.

Get some locking tuners, man. The new Planet Waves ones are self trim, full lock and 18:1 ratio! You'll hardly need your fine tuners! Install time will take less than an hour as opposed to 6-7 for the shim (not counting finish drying/final buff wait time)

cheers.

Awesome! Thanks for that! Got any photos of the new nut in position?

Did you have the same problem I'm having with the truss rod hole?

Here's what my neck looks like right now, before any mods:

DJ

Try it with just the locking tuners first without messing with the neck and see how it works out. You won't have to make any mods to anything that you may regret later.

Thanks man! Yeah, that's very much how I'm thinking at the moment!

Does anyone think there's any mileage in replacing the original nut with a locking one? I mean, technically that should be the best solution. Has no-one else ever had this exact scenario? Would be v.interested in any thoughts, comments etc.

DJ

Ok, thanks man!

[it's a floating Floyd-type trem I'm fitting, not a Bigsby, but I guess the principle is the same.]

Still wondering about replacing the original nut, or getting a locking nut onto the guitar somehow.

Surely somebody out there has encountered and solved this exact problem?????

Thanks Sambo, I'll try that!

Anyone got anything else too??

Hello all!

Hoping for some suggestions here with this one:

I'm replacing the standard fulcrum bridge on a Washburn WR150 with a floating Floyd type. Now, I realise that this means serious woodwork, but since I have access to a CNC milling machine (and its operator, who is SUPERB with it!), and have done a few bits and bobs like this before, then it's not that which concerns me. It's locking the strings..........

The Washburn doesn't have a locking nut as standard. The headstock drops back at an angle too, so a flat locking nut is at the wrong height. It has a plastic(?) nut, which even if removed, doesn't leave enough of a "platform" on which to mount a locking nut to replace the plastic one with. The other problem is that because of the hole for access to the truss rod there's nowhere to actually screw a locking nut into! (The locking ones I've seen so far have the mounting holes around the middle clamp - I would need one with the holes right out at the corners to enable the screws to avoid the truss rod hole!)

So, any ideas please???

Tempted to not use a locking nut at all, and go with locking tuners - but I have no experience of these. Do they work well?

Any other mods needed?

I'm a serious whammy abuser, I'm afraid, so I'm looking for something which will actually work!

Hoping for any help at all!

Thank you!