adamcr

I bought a steel-pole 43 PU from the US (I'm in Europe) and the chap sent me white (I ordered black). It'd be cheaper for me to buy a new cover than ship the PU back.

Anybody know if they're standard?

Thanks!

I must have made a mistake, just rewired and all is as it should be.

Sorry to have wasted your time!

The PUs are an EMG SES (passive 'quiet' PU, resistance unknown) and an SD cool rails. The recomended volume pot is 250k which is what's installed.

I've tried two pots, both 250k one cheap one expensive. Same result.

I can't work this out at all.

At the moment the output is far less (with a 10k ish SD PU) than my other guitar which is fitted with 9k ish P90s...

Is there any obvious reason that the DC resistance of my cool rails PU would drop from 10 (ish) to 5 (ish) at the volume pot?

What size holes would you recommend for a regular strat-type (maple) neck? One of the holes in my near-finished frankenstein stripped (the neck is old) when changing it over so I've doweled/glued it and need to re-drill.

I know the screws are 4mm, but how much 'give' is there in maple? How much smaller can I get away with drilling for a tight fit without risking the neck splitting?

Well.

I went ahead and applied white (mineral) spirit with a t-shirt and rubbed. And applied more and rubbed. And more. And more rubbing.

Result: wax is pretty much gone and the body has stopped sweating tung oil and is looking/feeling pretty dry.

Removing the tung oil doesn't seem like an option (unless I sand mms off the entire body) so my plan is to give it a few weeks to cure completely and then perhaps apply a tung-based finishing oil.

Having been through this, I would not recommend pure tung oil for bodies.

That said, the idea for this guitar was sound rather than beauty so there's really no damage done...

Should I rub the wax off with mineral/white spirits to let the tung oil dry more?

Any advice would be great at this point!

Is there anything I can do about it?

Anybody?

Or is it just a case of waiting and waiting?

Hmmm.

The guy that's been advising me (a pro) recomended tung oil.

Poo.

Anything I can do now, apart from wait?

You let tung collect in the pores, didn't have a chance to dry (and likely never would) and now its softened the wax and seeping out. Tung is meant to be used solo. If you wanted to wax after the tung dries its best to clean the residues out of the pores by lightly rubbing 000 steel wool with the wood grain. This should dig out any tung that hasn't dried. Then apply wax.

Really?

I was advised by a bunch of people to apply wax after tung.

No matter, it appears that model-making shops are the perfect places to buy wood for shimming!

Anybody have any ideas as to where I might be able to source a 4mm wafer of mahogany or maple?

I'm stuck!

I've just finished assembling my mahogany strat and realised that the neck posked is cut about 4mm too far into the body meaning that the action is insanely high (and the top of the neck is nearly flush with the body).

What to do?

Any advice would be great.

I've just buffed some beeswax onto a mahogany body I've finished in tung oil and wax, I let all coats dry and removed residue etc...

After I buffed what is supposed to be the last coat (beeswax) I've noticed that the pores of the wood seem to be darkening as if they're giving-off moisture. I can wipe this away, but more comes.

It's been doing this all night.

Have I done something wrong or is this normal? Will it stop soon?

I'm scared!

Yeah, it's not the end of the world. I bought a fab body from Germany instead.

What sort of wire should I be using between volume pot and jack anyway?

Bought a 'mahogany' strat body from them.

Not only was the body under 3.5 lbs (when asked, the people at the shop claimed it was the heaviest strat body they had seen!!), but it was about 5mm thinner than a standard strat body and thus a standard sustainer block stuck out of the back!

The kicker is that I dropped the f**king thing as I was about to repack it and arrange return and the entire neck-heal broke off. So couldn't return it.

Obviously I can't blame them for my butter-fingers, but I'm not going to buy anything from a shop that knowingly sells cr*p and then lies about it's quality (or lack thereof) when questioned.

I just got ripped off by them, so I'm not keen to send more business their way.

I'm after a couple of feet (max) of shielded two-core wire for volume pot-to-jack use.

Where could I buy something suitable in the UK?

I'm working on a Frankenstein strat project with a mahogany body. The body is routed for standard 3 PU lay-out but I'm going to fit only two PUs in a tele-style. The scratchplate will only be cut for 2 PUs.

Should I fill the empty cavity with something or just leave it empty?

If I should fill it, what with?

Many thanks!

Adam

Hello, I've been using these forums as a resource for a while, but I can't find anything on this question...maybe I'm being dumb.

I want to use a mini switch for a two single coil (tele-style wiring-wise) guitar. I'm not sure which type of mini-switch I need (DPDT on/on/on?) and also I'm not certain of the wiring.

It doesn't seem like mini switches are popular selector controls, at least I can't find anything on using a DPDT on/on/on (assuming that's what I need?) as a PU selector!

Cheers!

Adam