wickerwolf

Hey, what would be need (if its possible) to have a spst (on/of) switch on a guitar that when flicked to on boasts the signal/volume/output say be 1db?

Its for cutting thru durring solo's that bit extra. I know there are pedals that do this but is this something that would be possible?

Thanks, Wolf

Darn

These pots cost a smal fortune

Check out http://www.axesrus.com/axecart.htm i bought the concetric pot in my pst above fromt here a few days ago and fitted it in place of my volume pot as the vol/tone pot (So i could then remove the old tone pot and put in a mod) and i must say its 1 of the nicest feeling pots ive bought int he last 5 years! Its got indents at the halfway on both shafts and the smoothness of the turning actions is great. It was 12 pound which was well worth it in my opinion for the end result.

I know, that's six pots but what the hey. Who cares. On Pete Townshend's custom model, he had four knobs and two switches the size of knobs. It's possible!

6 Pots is fine, besides you can always use concentric pots for some of them which will lower the amount of pots visable down.

That's an SPST switch, meaning it has two terminals which it either connects or disconnects. It looks like it has a separate connection for the light and for the switched signal. If that's the case, then it will work fine as a kill switch but you will need around 12V worth of battery in the guitar or it won't light up.

Thought so, im still looking thru what the seller has to see if they do a 9v version or it may just be easier to make my own using L.E.D's.

ibanez (my favorite mod concept!)

guitar

- mount within guitar custom wired distortion circuit (gain,vol,lo,mid,hi pots)

- concentric pots/knobs for pickup vol/tone and distortion vol/gain

- necessary switches for distortion

MTFBWU

-jase

Very intrested in seeing how you do with this as im going to be putting a distortion circuit into my next project. Once the current projects finished.

Hey just been looking around on ebay and came across these http://cgi.ebay.com/3-12v-Green-Lighted-OF...1QQcmdZViewItem

Would they be usable on a guitar for say a kill switch etc? The same seller has loads of different switches but im unsure if the ones that say

12v applications

Are unsuitable for guitars.

Thanks.

Hey after spending most of last night wiring this up i was less then amused to find after stringing the guitar a few minutes ago that its not working. Heres the schematic of how i wired it

The problem is when i pull up the push-pull pot tot urn the varitone on it doesnt do anything. So is the pot broke or have i wired it wrong?

i tried taking the wire of the push pull and putting it directly tot he hot lug on the jaxck. Whih then worked but not with as good a results as i had hoped for and when in possition 3 & 5 on the variton the volume is extremely low. Can any1 help me with this.

Thanks.

Thats really eye catching gives me a few ideas for an upcoming project.

You're aim is to get a capacitance equal to the sum of the two capacitors I hope...right?

Yeah just finished soldering it all up now, got to wait till tomorow to string up the guitar and give it a try (its 3.31am here)

Check http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=28939 to see what i was doing.

Ok so i think i put 1 leg from each to the lug

Hey, how do i wire 2 capacitors in parallel? Do i put 1 leg from each to the lug or do i put the leg of 1 to the lug then the leg f the second one to the second leg ont he first 1?

Thanks

Hey all, after jotting down some ideas ive worked out how to use the above rotary switch to allow for 9 variations instead of 4. By adding in a SPDT or DPDT switch. At the moment the only capacitors ive got in stock are

0.001

0.020

0.050

0.100

So ill have to run some in parrallel to get the variations.

0.001

0.002

0.020

0.040

0.050

0.070

0.100

I could also do

0.200 and something else, but they would have to much bass in them to be of any use right?

Whats some recomended values to use that i can make using the stock i have?

The pic i posted in the 1st post i have now come up with this much so far

Lug 1 to 5 - A cap on each 1 with 1 leg of the cap soldered to the lug and teh other legs to ground. Then solder other value caps to lug 1 to 5 on the oposite side of the switch. Then the 2 main lugs go to the SPDT/DPTH switch which then allows me to switch between side 1 and side 2 of the rotary switch, allowing for the 9 variations. Does this all sound about right? How would i also make a way to bypass the rotary switch?

I dunno, dude. I'm all about versatility, but to me "distortion" on-board is the wrong application for on-board fx. I think that EQ, filters, and Compression are the ones to consider.

I chose distortion since i thought it'd be the easiest starting point

With my current setup i use my Boss GP-20 for distortion (Which sounds sweet) or run thru the 2nd gain channel n my Laney VH100R. I was looking at inplementing an EQ but having 5 sliders on the front of the guitar such as the guitar here http://alexplorer.net/guitar/guitars/vwberger.html doesnt look right to me. So my thoughts were to add in 3 concentric pots to the guitar which would then go

-Pot 1

--stack 1 = Eq slider 1

--stack 2 = eq slider 2

-pot 2

--stack 1 = eq slider 3

etc

etc

But im not sure if this would be do able and how to make a start on it.

Hey, after seeing various on board effects such as

http://auctions.yahoo.com/i:Efector%20Expl...fects:120905829

http://store.guitarfetish.com/anammotuampa.html and http://artecsound.com/active%20circuit.html

Ive been wanting to build/incorparate some into my next project. Currently ive got an Artec QDD2 in 1 of my guitars but thats as far as my experience with on board effects goes. So were do i start to create say my own on board distortion?

So can any1 point me in the right direction etc?

Thanks, Wolf

You might wanna check out http://www.axesrus.com/axecart.htm when it comes to buying the parts, there the best shop in the UK that ive found so far.

As a last resort you could use wax on the strings. Use a candle and rub it up and down the full length of your strings a few times then blow the lose crap of and play. This helps yoru strings last longer aswell.

thats a horrible thing to do to your strings

not to mention the fingerboard if its unfinished

Thats opinion, every player will tell you differently ive worked with proplayers who wont play on any strings unless theve had this done. Whilst i dont bother doing it myself i have played on a few peoples guitars were its been a benifit, stoping alot of the finger noise and depending on the brand and gauge of strings it can make them last longer (filling the tiny gaps in between the winds on the covered strings stops finger grease and crap from getting in there and corroding them!) But then at the same time it means down sides such as no pinch harmonics, etc.

Others swear by a product called Fingerease. which is basically a spray pack like an aerosol can and you spray it on your strings. It reduces the friction between your fingers and the strings. It also helps protect the strings so they don’t rust out as quickly as they normally would.

The only thing i do is to wipe the strings and neck after i play with a lint free cloth

So this really is opinion on which works best for you.

Looking good, maples one of my fave woods for necks and bodies.

thank you wickerwolf.

but should i put something between the pickup and cover, i think the pickup was waxed cause i can see some on it. but can i add some glue, and if so what type, cause maybe in 2-3 years ill get rid of covers, who knows??(crazy glue might not be the proper one in this case)

thanks!

You could use glue but id only recomend it as a last resort, what iron do you have? Ive soldered to pickup coers before using a 25watt iron but it was an antex (they heat up the soldering iron tip alot better then a plain iron due to the heating element been encased right by the tip instead of the shaft)

On the covers are they held tot he pick ups by screws? if so you can wind the end of the wire round the screw and that should carry the ground intot he cover.

sonds like your iron isnt heating the covers up enough, scratch a spot ont he cover and hold the iron on for a longer period, just increase the length of time you hold the iron on a little at a time. Eventually you'll heat up the cover enough to form a good joint between it and the solder.

It could be a bad pot, change it for 1 you know works fine if you can to see if thats it. (unsolder 1 from any other guitar you have and solder it in just to test, be sure to write down the wirring tho before unsoldering it)

So you have 1 pikup conected directly to the volume pot, then the pot directly to the jack. No switch etc. if so you need to run a wire from the trem claw (holds the springs in the trem cavity) to the back of the volume pot, then 1 fromt he back of the volume pot to the ground side of your jack and also all the grounds of the JB need soldering tot he back of the volume pot. Then see if the sound is any better.

Seems to me that you're overthinking something here!

I just got a spool of wire from Tandy so that I didn't have to fart around looking for short lengths... but I ALSO salvage wire from broken things or cheap things. Saw a microphone at the "Dollar Store" for example that had a long flexible cable and a 1/4" jack. Normally a 1/4" jack goes for $3-5 alone!

I've got a whole box of salvaged crap... sometimes kept for no reason other than, "Oh, look, this uses a 12-pin connector and therefore has 12 different coloured wires!"

You'll hear differently from different people, but you can use almost any kind of wire for wiring a guitar. A few people on PG have used solid-core wire simply because it's easier to bend into place and then solder down. This, despite the scientific fact that a stranded wire has more conductive surface area. It's just not a big issue for an electronics cavity.

Greg

Same here i keep hold of all sorts of junk just to salvage wires or caps from or anythin else that might be usefull,

To Adamcr from the volume pot to the jack is just any single wire, either solid core or threaded core just solder one end to the hot lug on the vol pot and the other to the hot lug on the jack.

A good idea is to go to wilkinsons or an online supplier and buy a rool of bell wire/speaker wire it works perfectly fine in electric guitars, i got a roll of 100 metres for 8 pound

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?criter...5V&DOY=25m3 is a great pack for pot and switch wires.

http://www.maplin.co.uk are also great stockists for all things electrical from switches to caps and wires etc.

Bought a 'mahogany' strat body from them.

Not only was the body under 3.5 lbs (when asked, the people at the shop claimed it was the heaviest strat body they had seen!!), but it was about 5mm thinner than a standard strat body and thus a standard sustainer block stuck out of the back!

The kicker is that I dropped the f**king thing as I was about to repack it and arrange return and the entire neck-heal broke off. So couldn't return it.

Obviously I can't blame them for my butter-fingers, but I'm not going to buy anything from a shop that knowingly sells cr*p and then lies about it's quality (or lack thereof) when questioned.

Ahh ive had orders from a few shops that have had missleading descriptions or information about items on them, its a long shot but ebay has some good stuff on it if you look int he right places.

The UK is rubbish for guitar parts (or it might just be the northwest were i am)

I just got ripped off by them, so I'm not keen to send more business their way.

what happend???

Ive had 40+ orders big and small of them and never had any issues.

Theres http://www.stewmac.com but its an american company, and there service (at least in my experience) is crap.