Digideus

Buy the afore mentioned book. it explains EVERYTHING!

Im looking for some Active pickups to install in my live axes. 1 is a Les paul twin HB layout, the other is a V with a single HB in the bridge position.

Currently, I'm favouring EMGs over the Seymour Duncan counterparts simply because they are cheaper, more available in the UK and I know what they sound like. The thing is, I'm sure theres other makes out there, but there isnt any info forthcoming from searching on Google.

Anyone care to add to a list of Active pickup manufacturers here?

EMG

Models: 81, 85, 89, 60, SA

Seymour Duncan

Models: Blackout, Livewire

If you have the saddles, just screw them into a base plate with screws. You will have to plot the position ahead of time, but enough 8 string builders do this with the individual saddles available these days

You can just make out the screws holding the saddles on the ebony base plate on this pic.

Using a metal plate and metal saddles will be easier to earth if you are using passives.

Take a ruler, push both ends together and you will see it will bend in the middle of the bar. Apply that to the truss rod where both ends are secured to the threaded bar on the bottom and when you tighten the thread, the flat bar will bow, pushing the two ends backwards towards the rear of the neck, thus working against string tension.

Most woods dont need THAT much adjustment once under string tension, unless theres something very wrong with the wood!. You wont actually know until you build one I guess. Suck it and see!

Crazy shape! I would imagine its quite body heavy, but the headstock roll is impressive to say the least. Is the neck attached? Might just be me but it looks a little off to the left

Ebay seems the place to look. Ive seen "Digital Delivery" media on there before.

I think you'd have to laminate it. A single piece on its own will be hard but the grain may allow for twisting under certain conditions. I have some Ash laminates i was going to use for a neck blank with some sapele or walnut (not decided yet). I think once ive added some CF rods, it will be ideal.

www.blackmachine.net

Doug from Blackmachine has done an exceptional amount of work on extended range instruments and offers two 8 string models in his range. Go find the 8 string project in depth report he wrote up about how he approached it. As ive said before, according to Doug, 27" is too short for low tunings. he opted for a 30" scale which still allows you to use standard string sets. Tuners are a concern with 8 strings as well as unless you want a 18" headstock, youll need to be conservative with the placing of the tuners.

Seymour Duncan offer an 8 string Blackout pickup I believe.

Now looking at someone like David Gilmour or The Edge....

Haha, The Edge! Reminds me of this video....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8EDuK46ZqFM

Gold Hardware?

Hey Matt!

Not sure on this one. It doesnt look like something you would do, Not enough spikes!!!! Im not keen on the back end being so round like a pregnant strat, but what the hell, its your baby!

Ive always wondered if you could make a guitar from just a plank of wood. Now I know!!!!

Can you record some audio with it?

Very nice job! Cant wait to see it finished!

Boss MT-2 Metalzone pedal

NOTHING beats it

buy a longer drill bit?

That'd be inches

You bragging at the number of inches you have there Setch,?

http://images.google.co.uk/images?q=ken%20...sa=N&tab=wi

lots of images via google

Picture?

Sounds like they arent actually biting any material in the holes they sit in, which may mean they have been changed in the past for a different size post, or the holes have been enlarged in some way. Technically, this shouldnt happen as the forces on the stop tailpiece shouldn't pull upwards to remove them from the holes, unless the bridge is way too high and the force of the strings is doing it, although I doubt it.

as a stop gap repair, pull the posts out, shove some matchsticks in the hole and reinstall them. The extra wood in the hole will help them bite a bit more (thats an old stop gap fix for strap buttons that pull out!)

I doubt they would send you a new guitar, they would probably just glue it, or replace the pole pieces.

Pictures will help give a complete explanation of the problem.

I don't think this is the place for you my friend.

I have a problem with that statement. Its hardly constructive, and typical of the types of unfriendly help many newbies have gotten over the years on this forum. This isnt a place to lord experience over new-commers simply because they dont know.

The truth is there are NO hard rules on how to make a guitar or what wood to use, and 9 times out of 10, make one out of anything, and its going to sound better than 99% of what you can buy for an equivelent cost price.

If no-one listens to the opinions of others, thats fine. Let them make whatever mistakes they make. it will either teach them to error of their ways or turn them off the hobby. Either way, it doesnt hurt to offer a helping hand.

no business that sells a product-full price with a mistake on it never should be given a good reputation. people want to buy a good product. the guy you bought from shouldn't have sent you a mistake-he should have sent you what you paid for.

Thats true, but its also true that mistakes happen and there are ones that get through the net accidently.

I think that the first port of call with any problem is the supplier. If they REFUSE to replace or rectify an order that is obviously faulty, then their reputation is fair game.

It seems Guitar101 HAS already done this, but there are some particular points that make this a bit of an odd case...

When I got it it had a saw cut in the middle of the upper curve before the horn. It was about 3/4 of an inch deep and they had filled it with some kind of filler. The two routes on the back instead of flowing into the heel just ended abruptly. I was going to paint it and I thought what the heck. But when the body was sanded the filler came away and left the wood.

At this point I would have called them and explained it was faulty.

I got some auto two part spot putty and filled it. I decided to call them and complain and they said send it back and they would replace it. I didn't want to send it back but they insisted. I didn't want to wait because it was being built for my son. That was about six weeks ago and I haven't recieved a replacement.

So, you DID return it? Thats good, however the fact you havent heard in six weeks is bad. Clearly they need to replace the body, particularly because you have paid for it, it was supplied faulty and was returned in good faith after they insisted.

My advice would be to approach the supplier, explain what is wrong and see if you can sort it out between yourselves. If the situation cannot be resolved, then you have every right to express your opinion of his work and services as well as take whatever legal action you can to return your money or goods. If they persist in not answering the phone, send them a letter by recorded delivery (and send a copy to yourself for legal purposes). It may take longer, but its the proper way of doing it

Depending on how much area you have to fill with putty, I would try Mulliput. I use it a lot on model builsing to fill gaps and sooth over joins, and you can smooth it out with water on a brush or by using a roller. It also drys to a solid finish as its an epoxy putty that comes in 2 parts, but its not suitable for large areas.

Check here

Awesome work there matey. The finish is just amazing. Nice one

I'm looking for a near surface mount, non floating, trem or equivalent. I would think the Khaller sucks the most sustain due to the roller guides. Any advice on good trems (Besides Floyd Rose)?

Floyd Rose trems are floating trems. I hate them. Youll get more sustain from a fixed bridge over a trem anyway.

Any advice on which locking tuners are best. I'm considering five in particular: Steinberger locking tuners from stewmac, Gotoh 510-Delta series, Grover locking minis, Planet Waves or Sperzels. I've used the Grovers but have no experience with the others.

Sperzels are very cool. Stienberger ones are ok but the 40:1 ratio means you have to turn them a lot more to tune them up, which is fine for fine adjustments. Grovers have a locking tuner now that uses 2 holes in the tuning rod so you can lock the string in place with less turns.

Sperzels are awesome tho. I have no complaints

http://www.novaxguitars.com/parts-accessories/bridges.html

ABM individual saddles for guitar - set of 6 for $110

Also their propriatry system, which is a little more expensive.

Mark out the area for the TOM then use a craft knife to cut through the paint finish before you Rout it and mask the area heavily with tape. It should help prevent too much damage to the existing finish. Expect to do some touch up work tho!

Oh and POST PICS!!!