joris

second try to post the image. Don't worry about drilling the holes. Drill the holes in the body first. Than line-up your neck. Clamp it and drille the neck holes. I think it wil work. Put a tape marker on the drill bit, to prevent you of drilling through the neck.

This is what i'm working on. I'm goint to recess the tunomatic bridge also. Hope the picture will show.

I've already routed the pickup cavities. I boucht a big chunck of sippo mahogony, so i have enough wood left for another three bodies. I was thinking of using humbuckers on the second one and put some neck angle in. This one has a straight neck and a recessed tunomatic bridge. Just curious how it will sound.

I will, thanks. Already looking forward to plugging it in, but it might take awhile yet. I have the body routed. Just making the neck now to be able to line everything up in the wright way. I will be using vintage noiseless stratt pickups. Do you think this is a good choice ?

it is a great looking piece of wood. Maybe I just have to find the wright technique to work it. I just thought it might look nice. The body is sippo mahogony, the neck is honduras. I'm looking for a warm blues sound. I will continue the find with the ebony.

Ok, routing it is. The leveling bar idea is great too. I have a big piece of marble laying arround, and it is straight as an arrow. I might stick the sanding paper to it and use its weight to do the sanding. Seems like ebony is not the best choice for a fingerboard. Guess I will be looking for another type of wood the next time. Thanks all You guys

Thanks. I think I can get a hold of this type of sanding paper. I don't know if I can get some preradiussed fingerboards arround here, but i will sure be looking arround for them.

I'm not trying to think about the radiusing (yet). the thickness is ok, i'm just trying to get it as straight as an arrow. Does anyone have some experience in routing this kind of wood?

I started leveling a piece of ebony last weekend, to use as a fingerboard on my new guitar neck. I used a #60 sanding paper, but it didn't seem to take much wood away. Should I use another grid or another type of sanding paper, or should I just have some more patience? I was thinking of, after gluing the ebony on my neck blank (honduras mahogony), shaping the neck with a router bit. Can this be done with ebony or will it be damaged because it is so hard? Thanks

I agree. If you only routed the pocket, just make sure all the other routings are centered on that new line. I should work without any problem.

Sounds great, but I agree, learn the palm mute technique. It takes a while before you get the hang of it, but man it is realy worth the effort. As for the TAB-story. I am with you wes. I've been playing guitar for 30 years now (yeah i'm that old) and i'm still using tabs when they come in helpfull. I mean I'm not Jimmy Hendrickx, but I now how to play. Sounds great curtis.

If you chain them in a propper way, you should be ok. As long as all jacks stay clean and you use quality material I see no problem. The only thing you have to keep in mind is that the sound can change depending on the order in which you chain the different effects. For example, chaining the distortion before the wah, gives a different sound than chainging the wah before the distortion. In the first the wah's input signal is a distorted one, in the second the distortion input is a wah wave. It can really effect the sound. If you use pedals in a chain, it is hard to change this order while playing. Using a GT-6 you just create sounds and program the order you want the effects to be in. Depending on the sound and the effect you want, you can just change is arround as you are playing. The GT-6 has 15 distortion/overdrive modeling types and 5 Wah modeling types. Combine this with all the other features and You will be suprised what sounds you can create. it's just a question of personal choice. I decided to buy the GT-6 because it has all the effects. I knew what is was going to cost me but also even if I didn't use all these effects at this moment, the day I decided to try them out, it wasn't going to cost me any more money. Don't want to make it any more difficult for you to decide, but if the price is the same, I would certainly go for the GT-6

It's correct. You need to do a lot of settings with the dial wheel. I'll check this evening if there is a way arround this. I don't think the dial wheel will break down that easily. I have a Boss DR-5 for several years now and the dial wheel is still working perfect. As for the distortion, I don't realy know. It sounds ok to me. You can make a lot of combinations here. Distortions is one thing, but you can start playing arround with different pre-amps, speakertypes, distortion type, all giving you a different sound. You have a lot of preconfigured sounds in the GT6, but once you get to know the GT6, you just end up making your own sounds. I realy rocks for me. I think there's a way arround the dial wheel, but I'll keep you posted on this one. Jivin, are you sure you have to order it overseas? We have the European Boss center here in Belgium. If you just give me the country you are living in, i'll give those guys a call and have them check if there's no supplier in your neighbourhood.

check out Jeff Healy. There's some pretty heavy blues stuff there and a lot of solo's. Some of them are easy to play.

I have a GT6 and yes you can combine all of the effects available. You can use auto wah, or you can assign your wah to the pedal. The combinations you can create are incredible. I've used other multi effects in the past (a lot) but nothing like the GT6. If you ask me, the GT6 is well worth the money i've spend on it