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Tony Enamel

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About Tony Enamel

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  1. Wow!! That is some beautiful S#!t!!!! You've obviously had some practice!. Nice work.
  2. I was embarassed to mention it but I've read the whole patent too! I'm glad I'm not the only one with way too much spare time! You're right, there is a s$%t load of info there. I'm curious to hear/see this bilateral driver you're worknig on. Keep us posted.
  3. Hey guys, When I switch to harmonic mode, should my tone change? I thought it would not but, it does. The tone goes really trebley.
  4. 100 PAGES OF SUSTAINER BABBLE!!!
  5. I seem to have posted the same reply 3 times! Sorry for that.
  6. I don't know how to delete a post, so I'm just changing the content. Still no luck with harmonic mode. I'm going back to the breadboard. I'll keep you posted.
  7. OK... In the beginning, there was no harmonic goodness. Then Pete said "Let there be a 100uf cap on output!" and a few rays of light could then be seen. Being blessed with free will and an inquisitive mind, Dezz set out to let his light shine. In doing so, he changes to a 47uf cap... and the clouds began to part. The warm harmonic glow began to shine a little brighter (but just on the 6th string and 1 or 2 notes on the 5th)! I'm going to try your 10uf suggestion later today. I'll keep you all posted. Question: What would happen if there were no cap at all?
  8. Hey Pete, Thanks for the suggestion about the output cap. I changed it this afternoon from 220u to 100u and I'm getting lovely sustain on every string. Now, in normal mode I do get that octave morph you described! HOWEVER, I still don't get much in the harmonic mode. I'm getting more than I did yesterday though, so we're moving in the right direction! Any other suggestions on bringing out those harmonics? What percentage of your entire fretboard give nice harmonic sustain? BTW, I'm using 11 gauge strings. Do you think I should try 10's or lower? Also, I designed my driver with a removable core. I cut a new piece of metal and ground it down to about 3.5mm and my sustain still works about the same (although I only got to play with the thin core for a few seconds). I'll try a little more playing tonight and give you a 100% confirmation on your thin core theory. My original core was just under 5mm so there's not a huge difference. But If I find that one works better than the other I'll let you know. Originally, my driver just used the alinco pole piece slugs from the pickup. It worked but as I bent away from the pole the sustain faded. So I cut a 5mm steel core from a strip of welders steel and just set it on top of the poles and pushed them down into the flatwork of the pickup. Bends worked much better. So, that confirms that theory. Now, as I mentioned, I'm trying the thinner core theory. I'll keep you posted. Dezz
  9. My battery is not getting hot anymore. I had the on/off switch wired wrong because I didn't understand how switches were wired inside(I told you, I'm new to this electronics stuff!) but I did a little research and got it right. If the drain is supposed to be 1/2 of the voltage supply, would it not make sense that if my battery was worn down to, say, 7V then the drain should be adjusted to 3.5V? Pete: Any chance of you givin' up a schematic of your circuit? I'd love to compare it to the fetzer-ruby using the same driver. Or maybe you can build a fetzer-ruby and try it with your driver so we can isolate which symptoms come from the driver and which come from the circuit.
  10. Hey Pete, Thanks for your suggestions. I'll try the lower value cap tonight. I have completly removed all other pickups. Just the bridge remains. The circuit fits under the pickgaurd where the middle pup used to be. I get harmonic sustain on maybe 3 notes low on the 6th string and nothing at all anywhere else. It almost seems like the driver is stopping the vibration altogether. So, not only do I get no harmonic I don't even get the guitars' natural sustain!! I instaled the LED last night and today my sustainer doesn't seem to work as good. Do you suppose I need a higher value resistor to the LED? My uneducated theory is that the LED is "stealing" too much juice from the circuit. Does this make sence? The LED is pretty bright. Also...... The drain bias; does that just trim the amount of current the circuit recieves? What I mean is, If my battery is going dead and I open the trim a little, will that effectively bring the bias back to 4.5V?
  11. Hey all, I recorded a small sample of my sustainer guitar for you guys to hear. It's two tracks (one clean the other with high gain) both in fundamental mode. My harmonic mode is not really working. I got a little debugging ahead of me. But, the clip shows that the sustainer works!! Check it out... http://www.asanteguitars.com/Hosted/Sustainer.mp3 ...And here are some pics: http://www.asanteguitars.com/Hosted/pics/top.jpg http://www.asanteguitars.com/Hosted/pics/driver.jpg http://www.asanteguitars.com/Hosted/pics/driver_side.jpg http://www.asanteguitars.com/Hosted/pics/guts.jpg http://www.asanteguitars.com/Hosted/pics/off.jpg http://www.asanteguitars.com/Hosted/pics/on.jpg .
  12. Update: Installed my sustainer in my Fender Prodigy last night. It's working (which makes me feel great) HOWEVER... My harmonic mode doesn't seem to work very well. I only get harmonic sustain on like, 4 notes on the entire fretboard! I was just listening to "Beckistan" and I can't get those sounds. Any suggestions? My driver core is a bit wider that Pete's (about 4.8mm or so). Perhaps that's part of the problem. I was also wondering what parts of the Fetzer-Ruby circuit affect frequency response (ie. EQ)? I was playing around with my knob (tone, you dirty bastards!) and found that when I rolled off the the top end my sustainer hardly worked. So, I wonder if I can adjust the ruby to allow more highs through (maybe a different value cap or resistor somewhere ) Can it be done and do you think it would work?
  13. Can someone explain how to wire the on/off switch for the sustainer. I think that's where my problem is. I don't really get how DPDT switches work.
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