Mickguard Posted January 28, 2005 Report Share Posted January 28, 2005 Bear with me, I'm new at this power tool thing... I've just started working with a router. I'm trying to hollow out a cavity for a little thinline project I've started...just a "practice" guitar for right now. The wood I'm working with is 3 cm (about 1.2 inches) thick. I'd like to route it to about 0.5 cm thick or so in the cavity. (There will be two 'halves' to this guitar, both from the same planks of wood...Here's a description of that project. But the bits supplied with my router just don't go deep enough --the max is more like 2 cm. That'll be okay for the neck pocket I'll have to route. But the 'real' thinline I'll be working on is 4.5 cm thick --how will I be able to route that out sufficiently? Are there longer bits? Are they available for every router or do you need a special router for a long bit? Thanks for any guidance...it's a fun tool to work with, that's for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SawDust_Junkie Posted January 28, 2005 Report Share Posted January 28, 2005 From what you have stated here idch, I belive you must have a fixed base router. With those the maximum depth you will be able to rout will depend on the length of the cutting surface of the bit and the length of the shaft. There is some play based upon how deep into the collette you place the bit. You can try not seating it all the way in to get a little more depth, but be careful, as you want the bit to be firmly secured in the collette of the router. You are correct also, there are different bits with different cutting lengths that will also add some depth for you, but from what I have seen, most router bits have a standard length shaft. What you really need is a plunge router. You can also get some really nice fixed base/plunge router setups from various manufactureres like Porter-Cable, Dewalt, etc.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted January 28, 2005 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2005 What you really need is a plunge router. ← Sorry, I forgot there were two types...this IS a plunge router (it goes up and down and I can set the depth, etc). But even with the bit set as far out of the collet as I dare, and the router as far down as it'll go, I only get about 2 cm... Guess I'll have to make another trip to the hardware store... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SawDust_Junkie Posted January 28, 2005 Report Share Posted January 28, 2005 I did not think about what type of bit you are using idch. You may have a simple straight bit. They do not usually have a very long cuting length. I use alot of pattern or template bits and most of those that I have seen have aout a 1' cutting length. Using my plunge router I am able to place a 1/2" plywood template on my body blanks and route the outline of my bodies all the way down on a Fender style 1 3/4" body. But with a Gibson style body blank, which is about 2 1/4" thick, I can only gor about the first 1 3/4" to 2", and then I remove the pattern bit and replace it with a 2" flush trim bit that I have. I have not had good results trying to do the whole routing with such a large bit as the 2" flush trim bit, so like I said, I make several passes around my body and template with the 1/2'" diameter, 1" cut length pattern bit, going down a little less than 1/4" on each pass. then when the pattern bit won't reach anymore, I was the long 2" flush trim bit to finish off. As far as the pickup cavities and control cavities and the neck pocket go, The 1/2 D 1" CL bit has worked well for me. I have no problem getting to any depth I need to using that bit in my plunge router. Certainly way more than 2-3 cm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted January 28, 2005 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2005 I did not think about what type of bit you are using idch. You may have a simple straight bit. They do not usually have a very long cuting length. . ← Yeah, I have to see what's available around here, has to fit a metric router too... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted January 30, 2005 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2005 Okay, I figured out what I was doing wrong...duh! I didn't notice that the depth guides were blocking the plunger....I can get 3 cm with the bit fully seated, close to 4.5 if I want (but that's not necessary and probably not all that safe either) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdog Posted January 30, 2005 Report Share Posted January 30, 2005 Okay, I figured out what I was doing wrong...duh! I didn't notice that the depth guides were blocking the plunger....I can get 3 cm with the bit fully seated, close to 4.5 if I want (but that's not necessary and probably not all that safe either) ← Keep that bit fully seated or ever-so-slightly pulled out....about 1/16in or 2-3mm. Longer router bits can be easily found if you need them. I have a couple 2.5in straight bits from Whiteside. They are surprisingly in expensive for the highest quality. Here is a link to Whiteside Tools. http://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/catalog/CatalogHome.asp http://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/catalog/CTStraights.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted January 30, 2005 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2005 [Keep that bit fully seated or ever-so-slightly pulled out....about 1/16in or 2-3mm. Longer router bits can be easily found if you need them. I have a couple 2.5in straight Oh, I won't need longer than what I have...even fully seated. I just need to learn how to use this thing... I was doing real well working on a practice piece today...until...I didn't notice that the screw holding the depth guide plate (with the three 'quick' depths) had jiggled loose... Next thing I know...wham! Routed all the way through the wood! So at least I know I can do at least 3 cm with this thing... Next step is to learn how to make templates for myself, cause I can see how necessary they are! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdog Posted January 31, 2005 Report Share Posted January 31, 2005 idch......Just be careful......I don't want to hear of any injury reports! Cheers, Tdog Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted January 31, 2005 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2005 idch......Just be careful......I don't want to hear of any injury reports! ← Any time I go anywhere near a tool, I'm wearing protective glasses, headphones (noise protection), heavy gloves...and three or four layers of clothing, including an old leather coat as an apron ....if it's dusty I wear a dust mask, but since I wear glasses too, they tend to fog up, so I end up ditching the mask... But yeah, I have to control my impatience...getting there... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southpa Posted January 31, 2005 Report Share Posted January 31, 2005 (edited) I just picked up a replacement 1/2" Top Bearing Flush Trim Bit through the "exchange-a-bit" program. Actual cutting depth (blade length) is 3/4" with the bearing situated on the shank. When cutting a cavity thats deeper that 3/4" I will use a template (of course) for the first few passes. When I've passed the 3/4" depth mark the cavity edge is now the guide for the shaft bearing. So I remove the template, adjust the depth accordingly and finish the cut. Edited February 1, 2005 by Southpa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted February 2, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2005 I just picked up a replacement 1/2" Top Bearing Flush Trim Bit through the "exchange-a-bit" program. Actual cutting depth (blade length) is 3/4" with the bearing situated on the shank. When cutting a cavity thats deeper that 3/4" I will use a template ← I'm tempted to pick up at least one of these top bearing bits from StewMac...since I'm not working with real Fender products, I don't see how I can just buy a template... Anyway, today I'm going to get lessons in how to use the router...I just can't seem to figure out how to keep the thing going in a straight line! Luckily the drummer in my band (and my wife's uncle) is an expert woodworker, he's offered to show me how... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.