Need Some Binding Tips Please

[ROCKETROB]

I'm new to this so I could use some pointers. I'm putting a single plastic binding around the top of my Tele-type body. The binding is from Stew-Mac.

Do you just heat the binding with a heat gun and shape it to the channel? I can see where a little heat won't let the binding conform to the shape and too much heat will deform the binding.

Will tape with good adhesion hold the binding well enough; or should I get the big rubber bands?

I am going to use Weld-On #16 adhesive. What can I expect with that process?

I'm using this first guitar as sort of a "test mule" to try a few different techniques so I'm not expecting it to come out perfect, but I am trying. Thanks, Rob.

[erikbojerik]

First, make sure your binding channel is as perfect as you can possibly get it. Square, right depth and height.

For a Tele, the only part you'll really need to bend is around the tip of the horn. Use hot (nearly boiling) water instead of a heat gun, much more controlled. Start in the cutaway, immerse the end in the hot water for a minute or two, then bend it around the cutaway and horn and hold it there while it cools. It will be formed close to where you need it, close enough at least to start gluing it (dry everything off well first!).

I like to use filament tape, strong and you can put it where you want. Have a tape dispenser ready so that you can hold the binding with one hand, and rip yourself some tape with the other. If you're doing both front and back, do the back first.

Some binding cements can cause the binding to swell slightly, so expect to have to scrape it flush after everything's dry.

[ROCKETROB]

erikbojerik: Thanks. The hot water thing sounds good. I have some painters' tape (green) that has extra hold but can be removed easily.

[johnsilver]

Rocketrob, a Tele is a good choice for a first binding job I think. BTW, Stewmac has a very good binding tutorial on their site that's worth a read.

In addition to ensuring your binding channel is as square as possible, it's advisable to examine your binding strips on the edges to see if they are rough or not. Typically, binding strips are cut to width from wider stock and the edges may not be smooth. If they aren't, dragging them lightly across a file will help flatten them and ensure a good fit in the channel. I also "degloss" the flat side of the binding on the side to be glued by scraping lightly with an exacto or single edge razor blade. That helps to ensure good glue adherance. When using Weld On, be careful how much you apply as it will squeeze out and have to be cleaned up. Be prepared for that and clean it up quickly. I use the binding tape that Stewmac and others sell as I find it has the right adherance qualities. IMHO, green painters tape isn't tacky enough. I do use a heat gun (actually an old cheap and not very powerful hair dryer) to help bend binding. You do have to be careful this way not to go too fast, but a little practice with the binding in advance will give you a good idea how much heat to use. Be extra careful if the binding material is celluloid nitrate as it is flammable, although I have never come close to having a problem. I find a heat gun gives me more control in specific critical areas without having to heat the entire strip at once or worry about water.

In any case, have fun and share the results.

[ROCKETROB]

john: I didn't think about roughing up the back side of the binding. That sounds like it will help to keep it on. Thanks for the heads-up on the glue.

I tried moulding the binding last night. I ended up using a heat gun; it went pretty well. I made two small mistakes though. Around the jack where the body edge flattens out I got the binding a little too hot and it stretched a little bit making the binding flush with the top. Now there is nothing to scrape in that area. I hope it ends up matching the rest of the binding. I do have another piece of binding so I can do it over if needed. I'll decide today and then glue it.

Is it easy to blend in a splice? maybe I could do that.

[Duff Beer Man]

Im starting a binding right now too. My first. Im doing a fretboard and body, my question is should i rough up one side of the binding to make sure i get kinda rougher suface or will the slick surface the binding already has on it work fine? Also the binding im using is wider then the fretboard. What i was going to do is was glue it so that some binding hangs over both the radiused side of the fretboard and the flat side then sand it back down. Is this a good idea?

[Setch]

Yes.

[ROCKETROB]

Well...I decided not to use the first binding that I shaped. It was too wavey. The second one came out much better so I glued that one in. I used less heat this time and was more careful when shaping the binding. I was surprised at the amount of glue I had to use. The first application went straight into the wood. I put some on let it soak in then put on some more to get the binding to stick well. It turned out pretty well Kind of messy though. I used green painters tape to hold the binding while drying. It seemed to work fine; although I made sure that there was not alot of tension on the binding by carefuly shaping it first.

I also made three pickguards and a cover for the rear control cavity. All in all a good day for me. Progress is slow but I'm getting there. Rob.

[johnsilver]

Rob, glad to hear it went well and you are happy with the results. Sounds like you did the right thing by using the backup piece of binding.

To answer an earlier question although you don't need it now, it is possible to splice binding. I personally would try to avoid it on a body, but sometimes you must do it. A typical example is when binding a headstock with mitered corners. When splicing, it's important to get a good fit and cut without mishaping the binding. I use a tiny exacto saw with support for the binding and it works well. Also, you can cover up imperfections by dissolving a bit of the binding (if celluloid nitrate) in a little toluene to make a paste. You can apply the paste carefully to the area to be covered/filled and then clean it up with a scraper or razor blade.

[ROCKETROB]

Wow! Scraping binding cam make you a nervous wreck. I got it done this morning but I was a little scared doing it. Taking a scraper to the top of your body for the first time is tough.

I put some tape on my scraper where it could ride against the body without gouging it; then when the binding was almost flush I took the tape off and carefuly did the rest. The sides were a little easier, but i had some areas where the binding was slightly deeper than the wood next to it. Not alot so I lightly sanded the wood to blend the area. This binding stuff is very labor intensive. I really like the way it looks on a guitar but, it's alot of work. Thanks for the help, Rob.

[johnsilver]

Also, you can cover up imperfections by dissolving a bit of the binding (if celluloid nitrate) in a little toluene to make a paste.

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Oops. I meant to say acetone and not toluene. Guess I had a problem with my chemicals. A little alcohol (for me ) should correct the imbalance.

[Duff Beer Man]

What do you guys use to scrape your binding? Just a razor blade?

[ROCKETROB]

I used a piece of sheet metal I had laying around. A piece 4x6 or 3x5 will work. 16 gauge (about 1/16" thick) with straight edges. File or grind it sharp on the edge you want to use for scraping. You can also buy them from Stewart-MacDonald. Rob.

[johnsilver]

I use a cabinet scraper (similar to what Rob describes) for getting a binding flush to the body. There is a way to turn a hook on the edge, and the hook acts like a very fine plane. Works great. I'll use a single edge razor blade for minor adjustments or for scraping binding clean of a finish.

[Duff Beer Man]

I got my binding glued to my fretboard today. Stew mac says wait two days till you scrape clean. Is this true? Also, my fretboard is at 12 radius but im going to change it too a 16. Is it ok if the binding is sanded down with the sanding block? Or should i scrape it down then reradius the whole thing. I guess what im trying to ask is, is it ok just to use sand paper on binding?

[Devon Headen]

I scraped it in two hours on a fretboard with no problems at all. Sandpaper is fine.