First Project: Double Cut Lp, Not Lp Special

[Stolysmaster]

Looking for some help here. My first project is a Double cut LP, but not a Special. It will be a symetrical DC, like a LP Standard with two equal cutaways. Pat Travers has played one for over 20 years(custom shop, I guess). Anyway, I'm going to have Doug at Soulmate Guitars in NY State make the neck for me since this is my first one. I'll make the body, carve(sand) the top, bind it, rout the cavities, glue the neck in, and spray the finish. I want the neck to join the body at the same place it does at the cut out on a LP Standard(18th fret?).

If this were a LP Special shape, like a Thorn, I can see how it would be easier, but it's not. The neck has to be flush where the inside of the cutaways curve up to meet it. This is my dilema(sp?).

Does the neck tenon have need to be smaller than the neck all the way around starting at the 18th fret? And therefore, the pocket has to be cut smaller accordingly. In other words, I can't just cut out a neck pocket to match the un exposed portion of the neck like I would with a LP Special shape, right? Does anyone know what the hell I'm talking about here? (I'm not sure I do). I think all regular LP's, Flying V's, and Explorers are built this way, right? That is, with a neck tenon that is smaller than the actual neck. OK, if any of you are with me so far, then how do you cut the hidden portion of the neck out on the two sides and bottom and leave the fingerboard that continues on toward the bridge undamaged? And, how long should the tenon be? Past the neck pickup cavity?

Thanks

[Mattia]

Yes, they are. The vast majority of all set necks are made this way, in fact. Make the tenon 1/4" narrower from the 18th fret on up, fit it without the fingerboard, then attach the fingerboard, then glue it up (or even glue it up, and attach the fingerboard once it's on the body, which I do from time to time. If you're having someone make it, you'll just have to be very, very, very careful when fitting the neck to the body. Sharp chisels are your friends here.

As for tenon length, I'd make it at least until the end of the pickup cavity, and reasonably deep (say, 1/2" of wood remaining on the bottom of the mortise?).

[Stolysmaster]

Thanks for the tip! If I use chisels, I suppose I'll have to do a lot of sanding(electric) to smooth that out the under side lip of the fingerboard that it will create. I know how important a tight glue joint is here. I guess the way to rout the mortise is to trace around the tenon on template material, then cut the template uniformly INSIDE that trace line, apply the template to the body, then rout the mortise into the body. When cutting the bottom of the tenon, I'll have to remember to build in a 3.5-4" angle for my neck pitch!

If anyone has any ideas about what not to do or not to forget, I would appreciate you letting me know. I'm going to be reading over as many of the past posts that might apply to this project as possible.

The specs on my new axe will be as follows:

black limba neck 22 6150 frets '59 roundback neck shape

pau ferro fingerboard w/ trapezoid inlays 24.75" scale

black limba body w/carved black limba top cream binding

natural finish on back

transparent dark cherry finish on top

two HB pickups w/5-way strat switch

two volume pots one tone pot TOM bridge & tailpiece

Edited September 24, 2005 by Stolysmaster

[Mickguard]

There's another way, which I'm in the process of trying out (so I'll be able to say whether it works in a few weeks ).

Since you're making your own body, extend the body to include a 'neck extension'...you can then route that out for the tenon, without going so far into the body (if that's a concern.

At least that's the theory (but then, I'm working on the idea of converting a bolt on to a set neck)

[Stolysmaster]

If I extend the entire neck joint position toward the headstock it will move everything else(pickups and bridge/tailpice) in that direction too because the scale is fixed at 24.75. The result would be a guitar that does not look quite right, don't you think?

[Mickguard]

If I extend the entire neck joint position toward the headstock it will move everything else(pickups and bridge/tailpice) in that direction too because the scale is fixed at 24.75.  The result would be a guitar that does not look quite right, don't you think? 

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Depends on your design....