Firefox2551 Posted April 24, 2006 Report Share Posted April 24, 2006 Hey all, I've searched for this but nothing came up that clearly explained it. I have a body all ready to apply the oil. www.freewebs.com/messingupaperfectlygoodguitar what I need to know is what grit should I sand down to before applying the oil? Right now its down to 120 and I'm about to go to 150. And after that how many times should I apply the oil? Should I sand in-between coats? to what grit?I'm doing the neck also, I have taped of the fretboard and am sanding the back of it now. If you guys could help me out here that would be much appreciated! Thanks all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unclej Posted April 24, 2006 Report Share Posted April 24, 2006 Hey all, I've searched for this but nothing came up that clearly explained it. I have a body all ready to apply the oil. www.freewebs.com/messingupaperfectlygoodguitar what I need to know is what grit should I sand down to before applying the oil? Right now its down to 120 and I'm about to go to 150. And after that how many times should I apply the oil? Should I sand in-between coats? to what grit?I'm doing the neck also, I have taped of the fretboard and am sanding the back of it now. If you guys could help me out here that would be much appreciated! Thanks all! with a random orbital sander you can get away with sanding to 220 grit before you apply it but i generally will go 220 with a sander and then up to 400 by hand. as for sanding between coats..after the first coat has dried i'll wet sand..using the oil as the lubricant.. with 400 grit wet and dry paper and then wipe it off against the grain. the wet sanding creates a slurry of oil and sanding dust that will help fill the pores. after that sanding defeats the purpose of the oil which is to build up on the surface. how many times to apply oil..until you get the patina that you like.. good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Firefox2551 Posted April 24, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2006 alrighty, sounds good, I don't want to be incredibly picky about it because I like those finishes to feel a little "raw" I'm not big on poly or Nitro finishes. I feel like they get "sticky" Just me though. So sand it until i'm happy with it, its and alder type wood so big pores aren't a huge problem. Anything else I should know? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unclej Posted April 25, 2006 Report Share Posted April 25, 2006 alrighty, sounds good, I don't want to be incredibly picky about it because I like those finishes to feel a little "raw" I'm not big on poly or Nitro finishes. I feel like they get "sticky" Just me though. So sand it until i'm happy with it, its and alder type wood so big pores aren't a huge problem. Anything else I should know? not a lot..tung oil is pretty easy to use..just remember to hang your wiping rags somewhere and let them dry thoroughly before you dispose of them. they can, and will, spontaneously combust if you just throw them in a pile somewhere. follow the instruction on the product can and remember that if any coat comes out bad..let it dry overnight, steel wool it with 0000 wool and go again. good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
javacody Posted April 25, 2006 Report Share Posted April 25, 2006 Tung Oil can mean a lot of things. What brand are you using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Firefox2551 Posted April 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2006 Minwax brand, just got it at home-cheapo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Firefox2551 Posted April 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2006 Ok, I put 2 coats on the body and one on the neck, I actually used the steel wool to take the shiny-ness out of the finish. I Like a "dull" looking finish. Then I went over the WHOLE thing until it was baby soft everywhere. I'm putting it back together right now. I'm agitated because some of my tremolo parts seem to be missing I'm sure they are around the house somewhere. I just need to look harder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted April 28, 2006 Report Share Posted April 28, 2006 Miniwax is more like an oil-varnish, not a straight oil. Much like Tru-Oil. This is, without a doubt, a good thing. Issue with oil finishes: go as fine as you can for the best look. 220 will NOT cut it, 400 is just about acceptable, but 800 followed by synthetic super fine steel wool is probably best in terms of looks. Get the wood as smooth as possible; adhesion isn't an issue. For straight gloss spray jobs, I stick with 220-320 and leave it at that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Firefox2551 Posted April 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2006 Thanks! Next time I do it I'll remmber that. I went to 220, applied the oil, waited 24 hours, re-applied the oil, another 24 hours, now some shnny spots were on it because I wasn't careful enough buffing it the other night, so I went over the WHOLE body with my 0000 steel wool. That took any rough patches out, got rid of th shiney spots. The whoe thing feels sooooooo smooth all over and thats what I wanted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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