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Posted

Im making a 4 string through neck bass and i need to know what measurments of wood i would need for the neck body fretboard ect ect.

So far i have the neck:

Neck

height: straight headstock: 5 cm

height: angled headstock: 7 cm

Length: at least 130 cm

width: 4-string 7.5 cm

But i need the rest also need it before the 12th fo july because im going on holiday then so please help :D

Thanks

Posted

Im making a 4 string through neck bass and i need to know what measurments of wood i would need for the neck body fretboard ect ect.

So far i have the neck:

Neck

height: straight headstock: 5 cm

height: angled headstock: 7 cm

Length: at least 130 cm

width: 4-string 7.5 cm

But i need the rest also need it before the 12th fo july because im going on holiday then so please help :D

Thanks

Ok you are going to need to draw something up for this. You need to give a scale length (34"?,35"? or??). If by height straight and angled headstock you mean length of blank needed for that part. You are WAY short. Most likely you also have the mesurements backwards also. An angled headstock cut from a neck through blank will require more length vs. a flat headstock angle. Generally (but totally dependant on headstock design) 7"(not cm) is close. your with sounds close @ about 3". Your overall length of about 51" is also potentially correct, but totally dependant on design. Give more information if you need this quickly, but you will need to draw this out at some point.

Peace,Rich

Posted

ermm well i do need it quick because im going 2 south africa on holiday and getting the wood while im there.

But im not sure what 34 or 35 mean?

As this would be my first project.

Sorry. Scale length. 34" is common, same prefer longer 35"+. and of course some prefer shorter scale dow to 30". That will be the distance from string nut to saddles (slightly modified for intonation).

Posted

Just researched it abit decided on a 34 scale =)

So whats now?

I again suggest taking a couple hours and draw it up. As far as the remainder of this. Give yourself 9-10" for your headstock if you do not draw it. You have to figure out what fret the neck and body will meet at. Then the max. distance from that point to the back of the body. What general shape is the body going to be (Jazz, Explorer etc... or a total custom?). As an example a Jazz style would need at least 46"min. (total @34" scale)- I would start with a 48" blank. For something like an Explorer it is closer to 50" min. I would start will more like 52" blank for that body style. If you just can't draw it up. You will probably be safe with 55" (it would be very odd to use more than that even with the oddest of body shapes and headstocks). As far as wings for the body you can figure 22-24" (again draw it if you can), if you don't draw it go 24" min. For the fretboard give yourself 27" worth of length (assuming 24 frets, and a bit of breathing room).

Peace, Rich

Posted (edited)

Well i could draw it this weekend its just cutting it very close also i dont know how or where to start

dont know fret measurements, distance of bridge from neck, pick-ups ect ect

Also what units is that in inches millimeters cenimeters??

you do mean a drawing that is to scale with all the right measurements right?

Edited by travismoore
Posted

Well i could draw it this weekend its just cutting it very close also i dont know how or where to start

dont know fret measurements, distance of bridge from neck, pick-ups ect ect

Also what units is that in inches millimeters cenimeters??

Inches.

Location of bridge is basically equal to scale length(34 inches) string nut to bridge.

Read this topic, and use the calculator linked at the end of the topic to find fret locations.Topic

Pickup placement is not critical to body shape (may be a factor in the number of frets you use).

Sounds like it is a good time to read a good book on building (Melvyn Hiscocks is a good start, and will be great for future referance also).

Peace,Rich

Posted

Well i could draw it this weekend its just cutting it very close also i dont know how or where to start

dont know fret measurements, distance of bridge from neck, pick-ups ect ect

Also what units is that in inches millimeters cenimeters??

Inches.

Location of bridge is basically equal to scale length(34 inches) string nut to bridge.

Read this topic, and use the calculator linked at the end of the topic to find fret locations.Topic

Pickup placement is not critical to body shape (may be a factor in the number of frets you use).

Sounds like it is a good time to read a good book on building (Melvyn Hiscocks is a good start, and will be great for future referance also).

Peace,Rich

Thanks i was planning on buying that book just havnt got around to it yet :D

Il read through that topic right now.

well i cant find any papper that i would stick together to even make sort of big enough so i think il just do it on the pc for now.

thanks again i might need 2 know about more though =)

just wondering have u got an example drawing (maybe of a project yuo have done) would make it easyer 2 do mine.

Posted

Well i could draw it this weekend its just cutting it very close also i dont know how or where to start

dont know fret measurements, distance of bridge from neck, pick-ups ect ect

Also what units is that in inches millimeters cenimeters??

Inches.

Location of bridge is basically equal to scale length(34 inches) string nut to bridge.

Read this topic, and use the calculator linked at the end of the topic to find fret locations.Topic

Pickup placement is not critical to body shape (may be a factor in the number of frets you use).

Sounds like it is a good time to read a good book on building (Melvyn Hiscocks is a good start, and will be great for future referance also).

Peace,Rich

Thanks i was planning on buying that book just havnt got around to it yet :D

Il read through that topic right now.

well i cant find any papper that i would stick together to even make sort of big enough so i think il just do it on the pc for now.

thanks again i might need 2 know about more though =)

just wondering have u got an example drawing (maybe of a project yuo have done) would make it easyer 2 do mine.

If you make a donation to the site there are drawings that are available. Take a look at this topic-Benifits

Peace,Rich

Posted

neck through lumber, i usually start w/ 48" and make my head stock angle (when i cut the profile i include the angle; so after the angle) i leave around 8";so i have extra wood to make my neck longer to the angle on the body if i need it when im planing and i still have lots to cut off the top and bottom; when all my laminates are together the thickest part is around 3" across

on a basic body shape (one high horn one lower) i try to give myself 20" and 17" that will give you play room to match up the look within a few inches

before sanding; after thickness sanding and starting 'hand' sanding the body and neck body are 44mm

the headstock thickness usually comes out to 16mm and 17mm

a profiled nck is usually between 21-24mm; but you didnt ask that

be careful with bringing some wood over seas, im no expert but im pretty sure its like bringing produce over

:D

Posted

Ya il try check at the airport on the way in otherwise i would always post it over.

thanks though im finding this all abit hard to follow lol

just reolised i put bolt on neck on my drawing :D

I dont mean to be a pain but could some one lay it out like something like this for me:

In inches or what ever

(going for 34 scale)

Neck

height:

height:

Length:

width:

Body

height:

height:

Length:

width:

fretboard

height:

height:

Length:

width:

just need it in this sort of layout so i can go to a lumber place and easily tell them what sizes of wood i want and see what they got in that sort of size.

Posted

fool proof- find guitar model that is similar to what you want (can be a bolt on even) make your measurements and add on an inch or two for end checks (funkies in the wood) and human errors;

thats all you need to know as far as buying the lumber;

you can worry about your angles after your home and sawing

peace :D

Posted

this is what i would buy for a 3ply neck thru bass

neck:

48" long

1' thick

8"wide

now i cut this into 3 side profiles and glue them together; now it is 3'' wide, ok

Body

you have to decide what your doing;

I'll tell you how i do mine that has a slab body with a top

Slab

usually start with at least 1.5" thick and put a 10mm thick top on it

this will be a total of 49mm before planing

you want to end with 44mm

so...

Body

1.5" thick

20" long

each side at least 6"

so make it like a

40" long

1.5"thick

at least 6"wide and cut it so they will on both sides of your neck; whew!

Fingerboard

25" long (theres extra)

70mm wide (again extra)

at least 10mm thick because you have to get this flat so planing will remove more than a bit

hope i dont drive you crazy!!

Posted (edited)

erm im confused where could a find a drawing of a simalr bass with measurments?

so i can work out how much wood i need also how will i know depth?

Oh sorry didnt see your other post on the pervious page :D

Thanks for the help that is what i needed =)

K one last question have you got any pictures from projects you have done that maybe show some of what you mean because the neck bit 8 wide ? thats confusing

Edited by travismoore
Posted

im not very good w/ computers; i think they call it computer iliterate!?

so idont know how to put up my own pics; but what i mean is;

the board i would buy would be 8" wide so i could cut out 3 parts of my neck;

it would look like 3 side views of your guitar; you would cut these out so you have roughly (3) 1" squares of your design (side profile) then you laminate (glue) together all three together; so your bandsaw marks will be the front and back of your guitar; like where your fingerboard is going is what use to be on the inside of your slab(?)

im starting to confuse myself, so i'll try and find a site that is going through a neck thru construction

uno momento

Posted

http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/neck.htm

heres one right from here!

all there tutorials are pretty good; this isnt exactly what i mean though;

you see how they glued up the neck?

same idea but i would cut the general shape out out of the board so i have less waste; the sides that have glue on them used to be the top of the board; theyre cut out and put on their sides; they use two different types of wood; which is more pleasing; but take the pair from the same piece so it looks the same;

if you got time to kill google some othere tutorials online and you'll get the general idea of what theyre tring to aclomplish; i know ive seen lots on this forum

hope that'll work

Posted

I gotta know what you mean by 48" long 1' thick and 8" wide also. 12" thick lumber :D . Just kidding around :D , just a typo. 1" thick lumber.

I should also point out 25" on the fretboard may work depending on the number of frets, but if you go for 24 frets on a 34" scale ( nut to 12=17" and 12-24=8.5"add 1/4" at the nut area and 3/16" beyond 24, and ya got 25.9375" tight.)/ 2.75" width is still probably fine just be sure it has a pretty staight edge when you buy it as you will want to true at least one edge. As far as 48" working overall (most likely, but you should lay it out or go oversized). 1.5" thickness on the body may or not meet his final design (some use thicker). 40" length on the body wings is probably pretty safe bet.

P.S. Be aware that when you buy the wood the will use terms like 4/4. This is a common way to define thickness and is supposed to indicate thickness in quarters of an inch. If you buy surfaced wood it is allowable for lumber yards to call wood that was 1" "ruff" (prior to surfacing) 4/4 even if it is not a full inch thick. When buying wood for laminate stock you need to think about final surfaced and trued thickness vs your required dimension. For example if you buy 4/4 2S2 Maple. It will be surfaced two side (edge and flat) and will be greater than 3/4" surfaced thickness. You still have to surface the opposite face, and ensure your stringers are true and straight. Sometimes they will lose a bit too much thickness. So buy good pieces.

Peace,Rich

Also: Here are a couple links to old neck thru guitars, same basic idea.

link 1

link2

Posted

the reason i stayed all in inches and what not was because he dosent sound like a lumber yard guy; they'll know what hes talking about, i was trying not to confuse him; besides 4/4 rough stock is always thicker;

my finger boards i cut off of boards from a template; i quikly measured an ibanez i have and it was just under 25"; and he said he was using a 34" scale;

im sure the 8" wide board would confuse you if you make your necks different, ican get 3 laminates from a piece alil smaller than that ; and since he was only making one neck thats the dimensions i gave him;

also it takes more area because the neck angle is cut out of the board; just my way;

is that what you meant? :D

48" is how long the board is , to comfortably cut out top to bottom

and every measurement i gave was way oversized.......obviosly exept the fingerboard

:D

grant

Posted

the reason i stayed all in inches and what not was because he dosent sound like a lumber yard guy; they'll know what hes talking about, i was trying not to confuse him; besides 4/4 rough stock is always thicker;

my finger boards i cut off of boards from a template; i quikly measured an ibanez i have and it was just under 25"; and he said he was using a 34" scale;

im sure the 8" wide board would confuse you if you make your necks different, ican get 3 laminates from a piece alil smaller than that ; and since he was only making one neck thats the dimensions i gave him;

also it takes more area because the neck angle is cut out of the board; just my way;

is that what you meant? :D

48" is how long the board is , to comfortably cut out top to bottom

and every measurement i gave was way oversized.......obviosly exept the fingerboard

B)

grant

Staying in inches is good here in the US, but most of the world uses metric. I like inches because thats what I am used to also. Rough 4/4 does not have to be better than 1", and surfaced is quite commonly less than a full inch (trust me, but I am not saying 4/4 surfaced can't be a full inch just that it is accepted in the lumber industry that it can be shy of an inch). 8" wide cut down for 3 laminates makes sense to me- the 1'(12")caught my attension, but I knew it was a typo. A 48" long board will be enough for most bass designs, but not all. You honestly can't say if you gave him oversized dimensions unless he has a full scale drawing put together (it is his design-different than yours or mine :D ). I think most all your dimensions are pretty sensable for most bass designs. So I am not saying you are wrong :D Just that you don't, I don't and he does not know for sure until he draws it up. Till then he best buy "very" oversized blank stock.

Peace,Rich

Posted (edited)

For the neck if i had one peice of wood that was:

48" long

0.5" thick

5" wide

And another peice of wood that was:

48" long

0.5" thick

5" wide

And yet another peice of wood that was:

48" long

1" thick

2.5" wide

I think that would give me something like this

wood (not glued)

Wood Glued

I think im starting to understand this abit

So would those neck measurments work???

Edited by travismoore

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