AprilEthereal777 Posted March 20, 2007 Report Posted March 20, 2007 Hi Folks, Super source of information this place. This is my first topic and yes I'm a newbie although I have finished one custom strat/prs/sg/ibanez/les paul jarrah carve top on blackwood body that I am very proud of....although far from perfect! It sounds and plays super so I have a bit of clue. Second project about 2 weeks from it's first palm muted Em!!!! My 3rd project is a custom V....Brazillian Mahogany Body with Figured QLD Maple Top....one LOUDMOUTH GFS humbucker and a Gotoh/Wilkinson tremolo, 25" scale......... I have purchased the Stew Mac trem routing templates (including recess plate) and plan to recess that trem flush with the body and therefore allow 0 angle neck..... I find the whole concept of trem installation quite daunting and are seeking any general tips or advice as to what to do or more importantly what NOT to do.....the Gotoh/Wilkinson trem is of the "fulcrum" variety with the trem simply slotting up against the posts...it has 4 springs.....kinda like the Gotoh/Wilkinson VS100N but with more of a wraparound effect to it.... My total body/top depth at trem rout point is 51mm...sorry no pics at this stage.....haven't figured the whole photobucket thing out yet.....let me know if pics would help and I'll spend the time. Thanks in anticipation all you trem gurus Quote
Mickguard Posted March 20, 2007 Report Posted March 20, 2007 Hey, I just did my first trem install too. Mine was a little more difficult because the unit I had was an off-size, so the plans I found for it (in the Hiscock book) didn't match up exactly. So I just made my own templates. To make matters worse, I added the trem to a telecaster bridge plate--that bridge pickup is routed really deep AND the trem block I was using was shorter than a true strat trem block. Which means that for part of the cavity, there's only a couple millimeters of wood left...I ended up slanting the cavity in order to leave as much wood as possible while still being able to attach the springs. Otherwise, it's pretty straight forward. Make sure your center line is right, then make sure you've measured your intonation point exactly. Although Stew Mac probably gives you the exact location for the front lip of this bridge --did you look at the Stew Mac Fret Scale Calculator? It's a great tool and chances are there'll be no guesswork about where to place your bridge. It really helps to have a long bearing bit in order to get the route to the desired depth, especially the back part of it, which doesn't go through all the way to the surface. Other than that, most of the rest gets covered by the plates --although I didn't bother with the back plate, I like the way it looks opened up, with the edges of the cavity rolled like Zachary guitars does on some of their models. Even still, no one looks at the back of the guitar while you're playing... Quote
Melvyn Hiscock Posted March 20, 2007 Report Posted March 20, 2007 51mm is a bit marginal if you are going to rout the bridge into the body. A Fender neck sticks 3/8in (10mm) out of the body and my Strat (I just measured it) is 44mm deep. If you drop the bridge into the body too far it will stick out of the back or the block will foul the cover plate. Get a large sheet of paper and sharpen your pencil! Regards Melvyn Hiscock Quote
AprilEthereal777 Posted March 21, 2007 Author Report Posted March 21, 2007 Thanks Mickguard and Melvyn. Yes I have used the Stew Mac calculator before...positioning isn't a problem....you are right Melvyn, it is those simple yet very obvious factors that can catch us out. Very useful advice, much appreciated.....pencil is now being sharpened! The trem is 51mm in height exactly including top so I may be better off only recessing in 5-7mm....now I'll finish that drawing to see if I have a neck angle problem in the making...thanks once again. Quote
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