GoodWood Posted April 4, 2007 Report Share Posted April 4, 2007 (edited) Im going for the bolt on neck, and just wondered if its unusual to pre cut the slot for the neck, I figure you can always adjust the neck itself if its off a little bit. Edited April 4, 2007 by GoodWood Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vinny Posted April 5, 2007 Report Share Posted April 5, 2007 A few here prefer it that way, there's more area for the template to rest on if you're using a router. -Vinny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted April 5, 2007 Report Share Posted April 5, 2007 I am assuming you are talking about an acoustic. I like to pre-route and fit the neck block and neck(no box). After you have the box built you still have to route the sides to expose your block, and you still need to check your angle and alignment(which will most likely require fine tuning). If you are dilligent and really pay close attension you can really save yourself a lot of fitting work. It can be done either way, but you really want to plan and make these fits with good jigs and accuracy. Neck angle and how the neck will perform is hugely important. Peace,Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martinedwards Posted April 7, 2007 Report Share Posted April 7, 2007 I precut my neck blocks before glueing on guitars, but for some strange reason I chisel them out on mandos after the binding is on...... go figure!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted April 7, 2007 Report Share Posted April 7, 2007 Well, the one acoustic I've (nearly...) completed thus far had a 3/4" mortise pre-cut, and I did all my tweeking on the neck tenon to get the neck angle right. I used two bolts and metal cross-dowels in the tenon, and it worked out fine. However, I think on my next one I will go with a more simple Taylor-style butt joint with threaded inserts instead of cross dowels...this does not require any mortise in the neck block, and the heel is easier to tweek to adjust the neck angle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoodWood Posted April 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2007 Well, the one acoustic I've (nearly...) completed thus far had a 3/4" mortise pre-cut, and I did all my tweeking on the neck tenon to get the neck angle right. I used two bolts and metal cross-dowels in the tenon, and it worked out fine. However, I think on my next one I will go with a more simple Taylor-style butt joint with threaded inserts instead of cross dowels...this does not require any mortise in the neck block, and the heel is easier to tweek to adjust the neck angle. Cumpliano just added the standard bolt-on joint to his website, like a book addition add on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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