Buying Wood

[Pete13606]

I have mentioned here before that I am a novice builder.I have designed on paper and posterboard to scale what I am going to build.I know what I am going to use wood wise for the body and the neck.I know the scale of the instrument, bridge placement etc.

What I don't have is a concept of how much wood to buy in a board foot sense.I have access to kiln dried lumber and the tools to mill it down to usable sizes.Left over wood is not a problem as it will be put to good use.I plan to get my lumber here http://lakeshorehardwoods.com/ .There are also a few other local suppliers with more or less the same inventory.Can someone give me an idea of what I would be looking at?My bass would be of standard size scale and body wise.

Thanks in advance!

Pete

[low end fuzz]

always have extra; for manuverability and unexpected defects (basically the same thing)

bodys- no top solid; you prolly want 8/4 stock and say about 4 ft; ie 8 "min width 2" thick and 2 24" pieces you could match up side by side;

i go 38- 40" for neck stock with whatever thickness depending on construction ( headstock angle; scarf; glued heel etc)

always have more; and off the same cut of wood

[Pete13606]

always have extra; for manuverability and unexpected defects (basically the same thing)

bodys- no top solid; you prolly want 8/4 stock and say about 4 ft; ie 8 "min width 2" thick and 2 24" pieces you could match up side by side;

i go 38- 40" for neck stock with whatever thickness depending on construction ( headstock angle; scarf; glued heel etc)

always have more; and off the same cut of wood

Thanks as this gives me some food for thought.I would also like to build some semi-acoustic basses with a much thinner top.

[fryovanni]

Is it a neck thru, set, or bolt on? Scarfed headstock or non? Will the neck be laminated? Shape of the body and width can really make a big difference on the body wood. You will find some woods are very difficult to come by in wider widths. You should post a picture of the design, and include more details. Really though you have all the information in fromt of you if you have made full scale drawings(that would include a profile view).

Peace,Rich

[Pete13606]

Is it a neck thru, set, or bolt on? Scarfed headstock or non? Will the neck be laminated? Shape of the body and width can really make a big difference on the body wood. You will find some woods are very difficult to come by in wider widths. You should post a picture of the design, and include more details. Really though you have all the information in fromt of you if you have made full scale drawings(that would include a profile view).

Peace,Rich

Ok....bolt on,scarfed headstock.Laminated neck(think three with some small stringers between the center piece.Shape of the body is not much different than most I have seen though,the upper horn will go to approx. the 9th fret rather than traditonal 12th.Body 13 inches at it greatest width.

Didn't think of the profile (or thickness if I read you right)but,estimate 2 inches at it's thickest.I will be doing "acoustic" chambers mainly for the weight and including a semi carved top.

Hope this helps and THANKS Rich!

[fryovanni]

Is it a neck thru, set, or bolt on? Scarfed headstock or non? Will the neck be laminated? Shape of the body and width can really make a big difference on the body wood. You will find some woods are very difficult to come by in wider widths. You should post a picture of the design, and include more details. Really though you have all the information in fromt of you if you have made full scale drawings(that would include a profile view).

Peace,Rich

Ok....bolt on,scarfed headstock.Laminated neck(think three with some small stringers between the center piece.Shape of the body is not much different than most I have seen though,the upper horn will go to approx. the 9th fret rather than traditonal 12th.Body 13 inches at it greatest width.

Didn't think of the profile (or thickness if I read you right)but,estimate 2 inches at it's thickest.I will be doing "acoustic" chambers mainly for the weight and including a semi carved top.

Hope this helps and THANKS Rich!

Ok, Measure tip of each horn to end of body that will give you minimum(would be good to allow a couple extra inches for play). Width of the body- allow a little extra with to true up your joint(generally 6-3/4"-7" should be fine. If you are planning on a lot of hollowing, and a carved top. You will have a couple choices. Either resaw your body wood and re-join, or buy a top set. If you buy a top set for carving you will need to allow for the thickness of your carves(some need 3/4", some 1/2" and so forth). If you are going to attach a carved top set you can use thinner body wood(as the top will make up the thickness), often times you can use 6/4 for a carved top, and actually it can be easier to use wood closer to what you need instead of planing away all that wood. As for laminates. The one thing that is really important to me when laying them out, is to look at the nut area of the neck and make sure you have enough wood on the sides to have a good look(I like about 3/8" on each side,the center grouping however many pieces that is. should make up the rest of the width).

Remember to seek out straight grain, clear, very well dried wood for your neck. Pay attension to grain orientation(whether you choose a flat or quartersawn orientation). It is best to allow plenty of time for wood to aclimate to your shop where you will be working with it. If you are not sure the wood is well dried, then allow sufficient time for the wood to dry well before working with it(moisture meters are helpful, but time is your best insurance).

As far as your profile. It will be the tool that you use to not only figure out thicknesses of parts, but more importantly neck angle/string heights/bridge height relationship.

Peace,Rich

[Pete13606]

As far as your profile. It will be the tool that you use to not only figure out thicknesses of parts, but more importantly neck angle/string heights/bridge height relationship.

Peace,Rich