Vinny Posted March 3, 2008 Report Share Posted March 3, 2008 I had some success thinning my archtop sides over the weekend and wanted to share what I did. They were 2x36 flat sawn walnut ripped on the bandsaw to roughly 3/16'', I needed to get them down to 3/32''. Here's what I did. First I tried using a Safety Planer chucked in the Drill Press, even though I put a fence on the drill press table, the planer blade grabbed the side out of my hand. I was going slow and taking off the bare mininum but I think it happened because it was walnut. I used to use the safety planer for a lot of things but since adding a 12'' planer and a 6'' jointer its been sitting under my bench. I thought this could be better accomplished on the jointer so I then took a flat 3x3x36 poplar blank and attached the side with dbl sided tape. It took 5 passes at the lightest setting to get it down to what looked thin enough. I ran a flat metal ruler down its length to separate the taped side from the poplar carrier board. Dont pull them apart because the weaker of the 2 boards will crack. It was perfect, actually too perfect because I went one pass too many. The side was down to about .065'', too thin but nice and flat and ready to go on the bender for a test bend which I plan on doing tonite. I'm glad that Ive figured out a way to get my sides down to corredt thickness, but I'll try to get them off the table saw a bit thinner first to cut down on waste, If I can rip them at 1/8'' that'd be a plus. A thin kerf re-saw blade for the tablesaw is on the list. -Vinny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted March 3, 2008 Report Share Posted March 3, 2008 Vinny, Sounds like you where able to get this to almost work this time, but I would be carful. Obviously there is a chance the jointer could rip the wood off the blank (just a bit and your jointer blade will rip the side apart), you also run the risk of tear out. All that I am sure you already know. I would recommend cutting much closer to your needed dimension, during the initial re-saw. Then finish with a plane or sanding block (you should be able to re-saw within a few thousandths depending on how ruff your saw blade cuts/ scratches the blade produces). Sounds like your heading that direction with your cutting already, I would just avoid the joiner. Peace,Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vinny Posted March 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2008 Yes, its definitely different planing hardwoods than say pine, its a hairy job on the jointer. I have a belt sander and will consider clamping it down and sanding it to final thickness. Thanks Rich, -Vinny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted March 4, 2008 Report Share Posted March 4, 2008 Yes, its definitely different planing hardwoods than say pine, its a hairy job on the jointer. I have a belt sander and will consider clamping it down and sanding it to final thickness. Thanks Rich, -Vinny Vinny, Be careful trying a belt sander, they are too agressive and you likely mess your sides up (this is what happened to me years ago when I tried). If you cut your sides to .100" (given your blade scratches are not too deep), you can touch up the sides and thickness with a sanding block in short order(much safer). Peace,Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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