RFR Posted May 8, 2008 Report Share Posted May 8, 2008 Whilst recessing the bridge would get your problem solved, I'd say you can go for a less drastic solution. You bridge studs are still a good 2-3mm above the guitar top, and could easily be sunk flush with the surface, either by counter boring the top of the guitar, or by turning the shoulder off the stud in a lathe. I think if you did that, you would bring the action down into perfectly acceptable range, and save yourself the aggravation of routing a slot, and touching up the poly finish. I agree with Setch. Also you can grind down the bottom of the bridge. It will not be visible and will give you more room to lower the action. Roman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJ Donohue Posted May 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2008 Good advice on the alternatives to routing the trough. Thanks! What is the consensus for action that I should be shooting for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jer7440 Posted May 9, 2008 Report Share Posted May 9, 2008 I had to counter bore the bridge post bushings on my LP also. I thought I was going to have to grind off the underside of the bridge itself...but it all worked out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted May 9, 2008 Report Share Posted May 9, 2008 The neck angle is 4.5*. Clearance at the 12th fret is .050 E and .035e. If that's still the action after the neck has settled in, then that's pretty decent. Preferred action depends on playing style. I have a pretty heavy right hand, so I like my action higher than this. I think the photo angle on the fifth photo may be throwing off the perceptions of the action...it doesn't look as high in the 4th photo. Nice job on the build! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted May 9, 2008 Report Share Posted May 9, 2008 I think it'd be easiest to recess the posts. This could be done with a wide bit and a drill press. Whatever you do, ya GOTTA be extra super-duper mondo-supremo careful NOT to hose up the finish. Whenever you're drilling into the finish, run the drill SLOWLY backwards on the spot before drilling the actual hole. It helps prevent burning & cracking the finish. Besides friction, I can't define exactly why this works (I'm at work/away from my books), but it does. When you go forward, run the drill slowly then as well. Lastly, it'd be a good idea to mask the area off before doing any drilling/routing/whatever. This will help reduce the possibility of tearout & chipping. None of the measures that have been mentioned will prevent the possibility, but they will all reduce the risk. Combining the measures where possible will further decrease the risk. Good luck, and I'm glad I'm not in your shoes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJ Donohue Posted May 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2008 The neck angle is 4.5*. Clearance at the 12th fret is .050 E and .035e. If that's still the action after the neck has settled in, then that's pretty decent. Preferred action depends on playing style. I have a pretty heavy right hand, so I like my action higher than this. I think the photo angle on the fifth photo may be throwing off the perceptions of the action...it doesn't look as high in the 4th photo. Nice job on the build! Thanks Eric...It has been strung up for 2 weeks now and the action remains at .050/.035. Besides both sons playing it for a weekend, a few of my OLF friends put it through its paces in Toronto last weekend. They're old rockers who definitely would have complained about high action if they thought it compromised playability. In addition to being laminated, the neck also has 2 CF rods so I know it's stiff and hopefully stable. As you know, I do far more acoustics than electrics so there are a lot of nuances that I'm learning here. Thanks for your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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