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Opinions On A Binding Thought


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I just had a thought (imagine that) about the technique used to rout binding channels. As I see it a couple of the most frustrating problems that arise with freehand, or commercially bought channel jig are:

1. A unsteady router leading to inconsistent and misshaped channels.

2. Blow-out or tear-out mainly because there is no supporting material on the edges of your work piece.

What if a guitar builder were to construct a second template, and exact replica of the original template, sans 3/16" or so from the edges. Could he or she then take that template, attach it to his finished guitar blank (billet), arm his or her router of choice with an up-cut spiral bit (1/8" or so) and a guide bushing and then proceed to rout the channel first, before going to the band saw and cutting your guitar body?

I would think that the process would greatly reduce both of the aforementioned problems.

Thoughts? Do you all have "go-to" technique that you like? I just think that buying a jig is a lot of cash for something with spotty results and hand-held.....yikes.

Gil

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I just had a thought (imagine that) about the technique used to rout binding channels. As I see it a couple of the most frustrating problems that arise with freehand, or commercially bought channel jig are:

1. A unsteady router leading to inconsistent and misshaped channels.

2. Blow-out or tear-out mainly because there is no supporting material on the edges of your work piece.

What if a guitar builder were to construct a second template, and exact replica of the original template, sans 3/16" or so from the edges. Could he or she then take that template, attach it to his finished guitar blank (billet), arm his or her router of choice with an up-cut spiral bit (1/8" or so) and a guide bushing and then proceed to rout the channel first, before going to the band saw and cutting your guitar body?

I would think that the process would greatly reduce both of the aforementioned problems.

Thoughts? Do you all have "go-to" technique that you like? I just think that buying a jig is a lot of cash for something with spotty results and hand-held.....yikes.

Gil

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The idea behind indexing off the actual part(final shaped body) is to ensure your accuracy(with respect to the finished product) is accurate. If you are routing a flat topped guitar, using a regular router base and bearing guided cutter is wonderful. If you are dealing with a carved or radiused top, indexing the top becomes tricky(requires a smaller base, and the router needs to be stabalized). Stabalizing the router can be done with a few different jigs that can be made yourself, and they work pretty well.

Rich

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Gil,

True, routing a binding channel can be tricky especially when you have a carved top. But I think that routing the bindingchannel before you cut the body shape won't work. Mainly because the bodyshape should be cut/routed/sanded very very accurate in order to get a consistant whith of your binding. There is always a spot that you should sand just a little bit more in order to get is smooth, at that spot your bindingcahnnel won't be wide enough.

If you want, you can add stabillity by using a routing table, you can make this yourself, just by mounting your router underneath a board with a hole in it.

28.jpg

If you have a carved top however, this will still be an unstable constructing, so with a carved top you route the binding channel before you carve the top, it's a lot easier. Nick form nmguitars routes two channels in the top before carving. The first is the bindingchannel, routed with a special binding routingbit from stew mac. Then he routes a second `dummy´ channel above the binding channel. This ledge indicates to which point you must carve the top (simple but brilliant).

31.jpg

When routing a bindingchannel always use multiple passes in order to reduce the risk of tear-out....

Grz Arjan

© the pictures are from www.nmguitars.com

Edited by ArieBombarie
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