Dye, Grain Filler, Sealer, Lacquer...help

[82cabby]

Hi all -

I have a few rookie questions for you. I am on my 3rd build, a tele-thinline style body with a figured maple cap on a cherry body. I looks like this currently (except it's all apart):

My plan is to use a water based dye on the cap (red) and pop out the grain and dye the body either black or very deep red.

I guess my questions are:

-is it possible to keep the sharp line between the cap and the body? or is the dye going to bleed under any type of masking I do? On the same line, is it possible to dye the neck but not the fingerboard?

-Is the dye the first thing to go down no matter what the species of wood is? Or on some species do you seal or fill first then dye?

- and, last but not least, is the order: dye -> grain filler -> sealer -> lacquer? and so I need all four?

Thanks very much in advance for your advice!

[Mattia]

Before applying ANY color (or finish) to a guitar, get the scrap out and practice! See what look you like - a direct dye with clear coat is a different look (sometimes more intense, but a bit less 3D compared to tinting the topcoats). I often use a combination, or one or the other depending on the final desired result. Here's a great video on hand-rubbed dye, demonstrating why you really need to practice. Also remember the 'dry' dyed wood will look very, very different from the same dyed wood with a finish over the top. This is why you need to practice on scrap!

Video:

http://www.finewoodworking.com/Materials/MaterialsArticle.aspx?id=30136

Few other points:

1. Dye needs to go on bare wood. You can sand back to accentuate the grain, and sometimes pure black isn't the best 'black' to choose, depending on the other colors. Dark browns with bit of black mixed in can play well with reds.

2. Yes, you can keep the sharp line, but to do so I would mask the top completely, then spray a sealer coat/lacquer coat on the bits you don't want to stain. And then stain carefully.

3. Order is Dye -> Sealer -> Lacquer for you. Neither maple or cherry have significant pores to speak of, and thus do not require any grain filler whatsoever.

4. Practice your full finishing schedule on scrap before doing anything to your guitar, particularly if you haven't done it before. I still do a bit of scrap for every new instrument, because I haven't built that many (counter's at 10 done, 7 in process I think..)

[82cabby]

Before applying ANY color (or finish) to a guitar, get the scrap out and practice! See what look you like - a direct dye with clear coat is a different look (sometimes more intense, but a bit less 3D compared to tinting the topcoats). I often use a combination, or one or the other depending on the final desired result. Here's a great video on hand-rubbed dye, demonstrating why you really need to practice. Also remember the 'dry' dyed wood will look very, very different from the same dyed wood with a finish over the top. This is why you need to practice on scrap!

Video:

http://www.finewoodworking.com/Materials/MaterialsArticle.aspx?id=30136

Few other points:

1. Dye needs to go on bare wood. You can sand back to accentuate the grain, and sometimes pure black isn't the best 'black' to choose, depending on the other colors. Dark browns with bit of black mixed in can play well with reds.

2. Yes, you can keep the sharp line, but to do so I would mask the top completely, then spray a sealer coat/lacquer coat on the bits you don't want to stain. And then stain carefully.

3. Order is Dye -> Sealer -> Lacquer for you. Neither maple or cherry have significant pores to speak of, and thus do not require any grain filler whatsoever.

4. Practice your full finishing schedule on scrap before doing anything to your guitar, particularly if you haven't done it before. I still do a bit of scrap for every new instrument, because I haven't built that many (counter's at 10 done, 7 in process I think..)

Excellent advive. Thank you!