psw Posted June 6, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 (edited) Some Success... It's housework day....so of course I want to procrasinate...what better than to see how these blases cut...10 minutes later... Sorry about the fuzzy photos but I only have a camera phone now... I used an angle grinder to cut and shape the blades fixed tightly in a heavy vice and wearing ear and eye protection...outside...a lot os sparks I tried cutting it with a hacksaw blade...and all the teeth of the cutting blade were stripped from it in no time (so that's not going to work)...they do snap however...so I held it in the vice and snapped it off roughly where I wanted and then ground off the rest. I put the two blades together and cut them, held tightly in the vice, so they are exactly the same. I ground off the teeth side to a slight curve and the wire guide slots are about 3mm, the thickness of the grinders cutting disc. They came out pretty good, but I also cleaned them up a little with a sanding disc on my bench grinder... Anyway...all went well...but don't try this without the vice and appropriate tools...grinder sparks are actually molten metal and the thing will get hot...if it doesnt grind a finger off first...at the very least it will fly out of your hand. Grinders also have a lot of torque, so you will need two hands to hold it to get this kind of cutting accuracy...not hard to do though... Uh, real quick PSW -- your design is 2 x 14ohm coils wired in parallel with .2mm wire correct? ok...measuring these blades...I have a core length of 58mm and a core depth of 3mm. The magnets are 5mm wide so that gives me 2.5mm absolute max for the coils. Considering that I need to use some kind of bobbin...albeit very thin (stiff paper most likely) and the core needs to be protected (a bit of tape or paper between the wires and the core itself...particularly important where the wires turn on this very thin blade (the pressure of subsequent turns on the inner windings are likely to cut them on the blade)...it is going to be a little tight... I am not sure that 0.2mm wire is going to be the best for this...I may have to wind to the dimensions (2.5mm either side of the blade) and hope the omage is about right...or I may have to go for a thinner wire. I think the thinner wire has a lot going for it...it will be easier to get neat and compact...and it has been tested by Avalon in this application. I have plenty of 2mm about, I may try one and see how it goes size wise...if that doesn't work...strip it off and find some thinner wire. I have thinner wire, but perhaps it is a little too thin. It is also possible also that these blades will be too thin...at 1mm thick, there is not a lot of metal in there, two blades per coil (2mm thick core) may work better...but I'll try it with one and see how it goes... I'll get back to the housework, but if I get a little time, I'll have a go at the winding jig and see what wire I have around... pete Hmmm...I tried that program with these dimensions and you still don't get 14 ohms in the size I want with 0.2mm wire... Edited June 6, 2007 by psw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psw Posted June 6, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 Update... Ok...so I'm not getting a lot of housework done...never mind... I have wound one of these blades...I made a quick and dirty jig as I described above, cut a slot and back filled with putty so it is nice and tight and wont move sideways or push too far into the slot... Winding, winding, winding...a lot, a lot of winding... You are looking at winding twice the resistance of the single coil design...though not twice the number of winds. I wound to 16 ohms... The paper bobbin idea is ok...might need a little refinement, it can tear when saturated with glue...am using PVA again. The paper absorbs the glue...that's the idea anyway...and can be pushed into the windings at the end... After winding a 3mm strip of paper is glued around the edge of the coil (still in the jig) and the paper bobbin folded over this edge too... So the final stage is to press the coil...which I have just done...I used the vice and a clamp with two 3mm wood strips covered in sticky tape (so they wont get glued on). I press the jig in the vice...remember the blade is notched so the ends cant be more than 3mm deep...it is the middle part of the coil that is loose and tends to bulge. I then clamped the 3mm strips into the gap, forcing the sides in. A lot of glue is forced out the ends...but this is a good sign, this shows that the air/glue gaps are closing and forcing out the glue through the paper and winds...very condensed and well potted...just what we want...with a lot of careful pressing (but a fair amount of pressure) I think it is down to 6mm wide (that's 2.5mm either side of the blade) and 16 ohms... So...I have to leave this dry a bit in it's pressed state...hopefully none of the wire broke in the pressing process...but I am hoping the paper will cushion the windings, insulate and protect it...well see... pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psw Posted June 6, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 Second coil... So...I couldn't leave it there for the day...wound the other coil (now I knew the size I was aiming for I wound to that and took measurements as I got closer)... They both turned aout a little wider than I hoped...I thought of adding some thin spacers at the magnet so the blades would be a little wider apart...I have found however with thin strips of wood to protect the two coils from the vice and others to hold the blades parallel to eachother, I could squeeze them till the two blades are firm against the magnets...hooray...It does make the middle of the coils bulge a little above and below...but that isn't a problem as there is a curve in the blades and room below...the magnets can be pushed down a mm. This wont fit into the single coil cover I have here...the two coils are a little squarer than the round ends of a single coil pickup...but that really isn't a problem so much...perhaps if I had wound 14ohm coils and or used thinner wire there wouldn't have been a problem it is pretty close... The second coil wasn't quite as tight as the first, often the way...be careful to wind just as carefully...I hurried this a little and it wasn't as neat as the first...still, looks pretty good. That's it for tonight, hopefully in the morning the coils can be released and not have to be squeezed so much to fit together. Once I have checked everything, the two coils and magnets will be epoxied together and should stay put...I'll have to look into some cosmetic issues... This thing better work in the mid position after all this trouble, it isn't hard but is a lot more work to build than the single coil version... You keeping up mrjstudios?! pete Oh...when using multiple magnets, be sure to test each one and mark the like faces...I used three magnets and used a fourth to check that they consitantly stuck to that ones same side, then marked them. It is very easy to get them mixed up as opposites tend to attract but you want all one polarity on each coil...it won't work if they get mixed... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avalon Posted June 6, 2007 Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 Still not sure what depth of coil Avalon made, but if it is to Juan's design it is possibly 3mm...can you confirm A? pete Actually...no one has made a parallel driver with 0.2mm, yet. Then mine and yours will be the first ones.... uh boy, pressure -- better get it right then. -MRJSTUDIOS The Fullsize Humbucker is 2mm high made with 0.16 guage (SWG38), 2x16ohm coils, in parallel. My Dual Rail driver is 3mm high, made with 0.20 (SWG36), 2x13.5ohm coils in parallel. My next DR will probably be 3mm high but with the 0.16, should make a very compact driver. Good to see alot of things happening too, keep up the good work guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onelastgoodbye Posted June 6, 2007 Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 Pete, seems you,re ona roll! Good to see you enjoying the finer things in life again, like die grinders and winding coils. Keep in mind the coils tend to "spring back" a little when you release them from the clamps, especially with the pva, and be careful they don't stick to the clamps. that's definately the most difficult part.You don't have removable cores, though, so that should minimize the problem. I'm surprised you were able to cut those blades so easily...mine were some sort of hardened steel (wood scrapers) and I'm not looking forward to ever doing it again (hopefully I won't have too anyway, with the internal neo mags). Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
col Posted June 6, 2007 Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 Score COL!! Awesome site! hehe, I must have posted that link maybe ten times by now - dunno how you could have missed it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrjstudios Posted June 6, 2007 Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 PSW Ok then, I'm keeping up but I'm stalled in the building process since I am waiting for my .2mm wire to come..... So PSW, are we going for 16ohms instead of 13.5? I figured a 8ohm (total resistance) unit would be best since that is what the F/R is built for and all of the single coil drivers are 8ohm. My Driver is a little bigger width wise than yours, so I should be able to get 16ohms wound on there easily. AVALON Which one worked better, your 2 x 16ohm driver, or the 2 x 13.5ohm driver? I'm leaning towards the 2 x 16ohm version now with mine since PSW was able to fit 16ohm coils on his smaller unit, and a full 8ohm total resistance unit just seems better balanced with the F/R then a slightly weaker one. -MRJ STUDIOS **pictures to come soon of my progress, but still no WIRE!!!!** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrjstudios Posted June 6, 2007 Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 (edited) This is how I prep the cores for winding... I use that wonderful plastic from the $1.50 cheap garbage cans and make temporary bobbins. Then I cut holes for the blade and hot glue them on 3.5mm apart. When really spread on thick, the hot glue does hold in the coils without sliding or warping -- it is so strong that you can't pull the bobbins off by hand, only but cutting off the glue. (I do clamp the bobbin a little bit just for safety while it's drying though.) You may notice that my cores are a bit tall, but I will use the excess on the bottom either to mount the unit to the guitar, or just cut it off later. (Heh heh heh, computer case steel is not hardened and is very easy to work with.. ) Anyway, I'm stalled until my shippment of .2mm wire comes in. -MRJSTUDIOS Edited June 6, 2007 by mrjstudios Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psw Posted June 6, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 Don't let me rush you... I just got up in the middle of the night and couldn't resist seeing how my driver was going...appears to be holding it's shape really well...another good reason to use PVA... I wouldn't be able to squesse it quite this way, nor would I be able to separate it from the vice. I took it out, took off the timber supports and magnets then added more glue to the bottom of the coils...the PVA needs to be exposed to the air a little to dry... This is one tight well potted mass of copper wires now! pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrjstudios Posted June 6, 2007 Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 Don't let me rush you... Dont worry. In fact, I would love to be keeping up the pace with you but like I said, no wire. I can't wait for this wire to come... I think I'll route the sustainer guitar (#XS002, pictures shown before) today or tomorrow, so it will be ready to take the new system when it gets done. By the way PSW, Avalon, and Col, do you have video cameras? -- if you do, you should get a youtube account and post vids of the progress. I think that would be the quickest and most effective way for us to share ideas and show how we each did things. (not to mention add sound into the mix and hopefully some very cool musical demonstrations of the things eventually!) This whole time difference works out nicely. You guys are in Australia, and I am in the USA, so I wake up every morning to find YOUR daytime posts, and I must be posting in the middle of the night for you guys, so you get them all nicely in YOUR morning while I'm going to bed! Wow, the internet is a cool thing. None of this would have been possible 15 years ago! -MRJ STUDIOS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avalon Posted June 6, 2007 Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 AVALON Which one worked better, your 2 x 16ohm driver, or the 2 x 13.5ohm driver? I'm leaning towards the 2 x 16ohm version now with mine since PSW was able to fit 16ohm coils on his smaller unit, and a full 8ohm total resistance unit just seems better balanced with the F/R then a slightly weaker one. -MRJ STUDIOS Hard to say if im honest mate, i've only had the fullsize hum installed, and that is working excellent, the dual rail is the prototype of that really, and worked very well in testing, but its very hard to compair them in performence without testing them both fixed in the guitar. Outside of the guitar they were pretty even though, with 0.2 wire, i'd be tempted to go for a 13.5 coil, mainly based on the size, but if you're confident in getting them nice and slim, 16ohms will work well too. I honestly can't say one is better then the other at this stage though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psw Posted June 6, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 (edited) I only did 16 ohms 'cause I'm terribly pedantic and I like a challenge...the amp wants 8, I'll give it 8... But I suspect that thinner wire would have been better and I made two identical drivers for the SC driver strat...one stand alone and 8 ohms and the other on the pickup about 7 ohms that I use...no real difference in performance... It may well be that a lower ohms is better or a different guage, but for us it is really guesswork and experimentation. I had the 0.2mm wire and it worked well for a single coil, MJ was getting 0.2mm so I thought I'd try it out and see how it goes... I am alittle concerned that the two coils are so close together...the current will be running in different directions so I imagine there will be some interaction between the coils as mine is so tight it is difficult to see where one coil meets with the other... The whole driver is squeezed so tight in fact that there is a fair amount of space on either side which could be used for magnetic shielding if I wanted... anyway...we only find out by people having a go...so much has been achieved by people making their own way and sharing their expereinces...it is what keeps me active in this thread, and what brings people back for more... pete viva la time difference...hang on, it's 5 am again! Oh...by the way...will be having my kids over for a while, if I don't post it's 'cause they don't want me mucking around with these things...and they hog the computer...and then it's back to work again....see you when that's all over Hey...I mised a few posts... Pete, seems you,re ona roll! Good to see you enjoying the finer things in life again, like die grinders and winding coils. Keep in mind the coils tend to "spring back" a little when you release them from the clamps, especially with the pva, and be careful they don't stick to the clamps. that's definately the most difficult part.You don't have removable cores, though, so that should minimize the problem. I'm surprised you were able to cut those blades so easily...mine were some sort of hardened steel (wood scrapers) and I'm not looking forward to ever doing it again (hopefully I won't have too anyway, with the internal neo mags). Tim Thanks Tim, good to see you are still about...I know about cutting those things...not good. These blades were the cheapest worst quality hacksaw blades I could find...Plus I used a super fast grinder and held them very steady...something had to give... Yes...that spring back is a problem...it is a little more stable now but I cant afford it to do that at all between the blades or the magnet will no longer stick...hopefully, liberal amounts of epoxy will keep it all together... My paper bobbins turned out to be mostly sacrificial...the notches on the end hold the coil in place, the jig holds the shape while winding...most of the exterior paper has since been stripped off by working the coil and being saturated with glue...so now they are bobbinless. I wrapped each coil edge in electrical tape really tight and now it is being held in a vice and I will probably leave it there for some time. I press it between pieces of timber in the vice so I can take care in removing them. And col... hehe, I must have posted that link maybe ten times by now - dunno how you could have missed it That is a good program for giving a rough idea, but the variables of peoples work, how tight the coils get and how they are potted and processed are going to make a big difference...still, it wasn't far out with mine in terms of it being "nearly possible"...my coil squeeze process and lack of bobbins, and that I am only concerned with the width betweeen the blades (it can buldge a little down and on the other side of the blades all it wants...is the only thing that allows it to fit as I had planned...now if only I can make it stay there without ging all out of shape (I'm inclinded to cover it in epoxy, but I will have to squeeze it as it sets...don't want it epoxied to anything at this stage...) p Edited June 6, 2007 by psw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psw Posted June 6, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 Some more progress... OK...I know, I know...housework...must do... Here are some more fuzzy photos of my driver being built... Top photo shows how tightly the two coils have been squeezed together...notice the rust, thes blades rusted immediately with the PVA...ferrite is made from rust so maybe it's a good thing...no, seriously, shows why you need to protect the inner copper wires from corrosion should they come into contact with this steel... The second photo shows the underside with the magnets removed...the white stuff is the remnants of the paper bobbins...not much left...it tore off from the clamping but did protect the coil from the clamps and vice squeezing... The lower photo shows how it was clamped...ply pieces to protect the coils from the vice, 3mm strips below to put pressure on the blades onto the magnet... Due to the expansion effect that Tim referred to when the coils are unclamped (they try to slowly expand 1mm apart) even when essentially dry...I have moved on to the epoxy stage...I have glued the magnets in and put a lot of epoxy between the blades and on the magnets...I have also moved on to some of the cosmetic/design aspects of this thing... I have a vision of what I want this thing to "look" like. Probably I should be sure that the thing works as I want it first, but I suspect that if it does, I won't want to build another in a hurry. I also like the idea that a design, the way it looks and what holds it together should naturally flow...I know Tim/onelastgoodbye has a particular interest and skill in this area... One of the things that worries me about the mid-driver is that the driver will need to be pretty close to the strings and will get in the way of my picking...I will just have to adjust. I don't want the driver to get damaged or too scuffed up over time...my original SC strat driver is held together with tape now as the very thin plastic bobbin lifts and sometimes even catches the high string...still works fine, but not a good look...You will have seen some of the ways I am looking at designs and materials in my hex designs also. Another thing I don't want is the blades to expand apart, especially if it looses contact with the magnets, but also for structual integrety. I can glue the magnets and the bottom of the of the blade abd coils...but there is a lot of internal pressure and in use it may generate a bit of heat that may soften the PVA. PVA will not stick to metals or plastic... So...I have cut a 5mm strip of aluminium and epoxied this to the top of the coil between the blades...sticking the two blades together and the coils...so now they are glued together by the magnets below and the aluminium strip above. This strip will also serve as a protector from "pick attack"... most importantly, it will polish up nicely and fit in with the "chrome look of this guitar without being too much To do this, I cut the aluminium and epoxied everything up and it is now in a complicated clamp where the magnet blades are being forced together and the aluminium strip is forced down from above...the strip is slightly curved (as are the top of the blades) so the top clamp holds a strip that is flexed holding the ends down tight...hopefully everything will hold as this kind of thing only adds more internal pressures...one thing for sure, this thing will have no internal vibrations! While the idea all sounds good, from an electrical/magnetic point of view, it may not be the best idea. While aluminium is not magnetic, so does not serve to bridge the gap between the blades...it is a very good conductor. Currents will be generated within the material that may create eddys that effect efficiency...on the other hand, so does the blades (ferrite would be a better material - magnetic but not conductive)... I will also need to take care shaping this later, I can't bring in the heavy machinery to grind it down to shape because of the heat and danger to the coil if I slip so it will be hand files and sanding and polishing at some stage... I have to leave the thing now...it's all epoxied up and I will have to be sure it is set before I let it out of the vices grip and it's own internal pressures try to rip it apart... pete Oh...and I had a thought...perhaps we should do a gallery or friendly GOTM type thing for our sustainers...there have been some great work created by quite a few people... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrjstudios Posted June 7, 2007 Report Share Posted June 7, 2007 Nice work as usual. The core looks as small as it was supposed to be. Still no wire here..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psw Posted June 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2007 I am having so much fun...scheming...this had better work... Now I am getting into the cosmetic stuff...but before I post where it's up too I found these two images of the winding jig block I made... And now..the epoxy has set and I have filed down and polished the alloy strip a little... So shiny...this is where it starts to look like jewelry or something...also note, this type of work is not a commercial proposition...look at the amount of work that goes into this kind of thing, sheesh... Have a plan, but suggestions are appreciated, thanks for the complements... pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crep Posted June 7, 2007 Report Share Posted June 7, 2007 good morning. first of all let me say thanks to pete that's so helpful with all of us. well, i'm doing the sustainer using an old fender pu and 2mm wire, using pete's diyfever instructions. can someone post the definitive schematic and layout of the amp used for the sustainer? i've seen many types of, just want the more suitable for this project...and the one with most switches and controls. thanks a lot greetings from italy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psw Posted June 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2007 OK...so I can't leave it alone...when you're on a roll... A little disappointed...one coil is a little over 16, the other about 14, so in parallel I am getting a reading of 8.6...hmmm...one coil did look a little bigger than the other...given my success with lower ohm coils with the SC drivers, I would have preferred to be a little under 8 ohms... Also...had a minor heart attack soldering the leads...broke one and then got no reading from the blue coil...fortunately it was a bad solder connection. All the glue and epoxy and the wires enamel make it a bugger to solder and scraping it off weakens the wire...on previous coils I soldered on end first and then the other before proceeding, probably a better idea. I have used copious abounts of electricians tape...make sure you have some at hand, you have to protect the coils, cores and soldered connection and it is usefull for holding it all together...plus it comes off... That aside, the extra ohmage won't really hurt it...this is an inexact science, well it is the way I do it... So...the thing is holding together well and has 4 leads connected (though these will be connected in pairs to form two leads)...these will lead to a little vero board strip eventually hidden under the overhang of the coil... I have also made a couple of extra fins and would like an opinion... These are made from hacksaw blade and could be fitted on either side of the unit's coils as a bit of a magnetic shield...they wont themselves be magnetised...I am not sure if they will benefit the device, but I could fit them all the same...does anyone have an opinion on whether I should fit these to the design. It could be that stray magnetisim from the pickups would find these to be an easier path than the core of the driver...on the other hand, eddy currents in them may lower the coils efficiency... Otherwise...stayed up too late on this...almost done...just added a few "extra features" and awaiting the verdict on the question of shielding the coils...then a bit of cosmetic stuff and working out the mounting system... I intend to build a nes circuit for this one BTW so full testing of it may be a little while off...I may see if the "sustain box" is still working (if I can find it) and see how it runs with that... Thats all for now...check you later... pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crep Posted June 7, 2007 Report Share Posted June 7, 2007 (edited) ok, so. have to pick up the signal from guitar out, amplify through the FR and put it out from the driver coil. ok. just a thing i don't understand. what i use for the center of the coil (a piece of steel, a saw, whatever) has to be magnetized with some external magnets or not? Edited June 7, 2007 by Crep Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ByDeR Posted June 7, 2007 Report Share Posted June 7, 2007 Hello guys, im new here, after reading lots about the sustainer, i decided to make one for myself. But i have some questions. 1- I have a magnet that is the perfect size of a core, should i use it as a core, or make a steel core, and then put the magnet below in contact with the core? 2 - I use EMG active pickups, so, can i bypass the preamp and use col's power amp circuit, or will i get better control with the modded F/R by psw? 3 - How and where do i connect the switch to reverse the leads (im guessing at the driver it self) and make the harmonic mode? Here's a schematic of how i will be wiring the stuff, im kinda new in electronics ^^. Im grounding the F/R or any power amp to the control casing of the master volume, is that ok? One more thing (sorry lol) , how could i make a circuit that would shut the sustainer out if i select the neck pickup, or reverse, disabling the neck pickup, when i turn On the sustainer. What could go wrong if i select the neck pickup when using the sustainer, besides creating noise i think. Thanks in advance to all, and congrats for the work you all developed untill now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrjstudios Posted June 7, 2007 Report Share Posted June 7, 2007 Well, the shielding aspect shouldn't be important (remember what you told me, heh he he). But like I was going to do before, make the shield section independent of the mounting structure, and then test the sustainer with it off. You could then add it later very easily and see if it kills efficiency or does anything at all. I'm still not sure about that Aluminum strip that you used to bridge the gap between the cores though. Since the cores are being magnetized by the driver working, then they must have an electrical current induced in them. And since Al is conductive, it will happily carry that current back and forth, which will create another magnetic field. Who knows if that whole process will make anything significant electrically or magnetically, but to me, it's kinda like wearing metal boots when working in a power plant.... I just hope I can get my coils closer in ohmage than yours turned out to be -- not sure how I'll ensure my success yet though. CREP For the sustainer amp you need to: tap into the output of your pickup signal send that signal into the input of your F/R amp (that is what I use, it is a good one) Ground everything to the battery (-) AND to the guitar ground send the outputs of the F/R to the sustainer driver (instead of a speaker, but same principal) For the sustainer Driver you need to: read over this forum, and pick a proven design (these new dual core ones are in development; a single coil sustainer is easier to build and proven to work) The basic structure is: A pickup type magnet attached to the bottom of a steel (magnetic) core some sort of magnet wire (from .18mm - .25mm) wrapped to 8ohms around the core as tightly as possible some type of bobbin to hold the coil together the coil is doused in PVA (elmers) glue to solidify it and 'pot' it Before you start building, read as much as you can on the previous pages about the single coil designs and the F/R amp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ByDeR Posted June 7, 2007 Report Share Posted June 7, 2007 Yeah, ive read almost all the thread during last day lol. Lots of usefull info. Im going for the single coil design, im using in the neck, far away from the bridge pickup so EMI shouldnt be a problem. As for the construction of the driver, i think i got the concept preety well, my only doubt, is that if i can use a magnet itself for the core, or if i should use a steel core, and then magnetise it with a magnet i would put in contact with the steel core. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrjstudios Posted June 7, 2007 Report Share Posted June 7, 2007 My single coil looks like this -- It seems to be much easier to use a separate magnet and core. I used a 3mm thick steel piece as the core and then magnetized it by glueing a magnet to the bottom of it. It works pretty well. You can see it being tested at http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=MRJSTUDIOS -- just click on the sustainer video. -MRJ STUDIOS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avalon Posted June 7, 2007 Report Share Posted June 7, 2007 ok, so. have to pick up the signal from guitar out, amplify through the FR and put it out from the driver coil. ok. just a thing i don't understand. what i use for the center of the coil (a piece of steel, a saw, whatever) has to be magnetized with some external magnets or not? Well i use Steel cores, i bought a strip of flat 2mm x 12mm x 1 meter piece of steel from B&Q (local hardware store) and i cut of a piece as and when i need it, then attach an external magnet to the steel. Hello guys, im new here, after reading lots about the sustainer, i decided to make one for myself. But i have some questions. 1- I have a magnet that is the perfect size of a core, should i use it as a core, or make a steel core, and then put the magnet below in contact with the core? I would make a steel core and attach the magnet to it, steel is easy to get a hold of, magnets aren't, plus you don't want to be filing magnets either, cores with sharp corners aren't a good starting place for coils. 3 - How and where do i connect the switch to reverse the leads (im guessing at the driver it self) and make the harmonic mode? Anywhere between the F/R's output and the Driver in really, it only becomes important when you come to install it really. Here's a schematic of how i will be wiring the stuff, im kinda new in electronics ^^. Im grounding the F/R or any power amp to the control casing of the master volume, is that ok? Yes, any common groud point on the guitar should be good, mine is to the pickup selector switch. One more thing (sorry lol) , how could i make a circuit that would shut the sustainer out if i select the neck pickup, or reverse, disabling the neck pickup, when i turn On the sustainer. What could go wrong if i select the neck pickup when using the sustainer, besides creating noise i think. Thanks in advance to all, and congrats for the work you all developed untill now. Other then the noise, nothing will happen really, but if you're going for a mid driver (as you want the neck active implys you're looking at a mid driver) you shouldn't need to disconnect the neck or the bridge, providing you get an effective driver, it shouldn't interfear with it. The only reason you would need disconnect the neck pickup when the sustainer go's on, is if you had the driver and neck pickup as one unit (fullsize humbucker, 2 driver coils on top of 2 pickup coils etc). So you shouldn't have to disconnect them, if for some other reason you do need it disconnected, i believe its just a case of disconnecting the hot and ground wires of the driver and enabling the pickups, and vice verse when you want the sustainer on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avalon Posted June 7, 2007 Report Share Posted June 7, 2007 I have also made a couple of extra fins and would like an opinion... These are made from hacksaw blade and could be fitted on either side of the unit's coils as a bit of a magnetic shield...they wont themselves be magnetised...I am not sure if they will benefit the device, but I could fit them all the same...does anyone have an opinion on whether I should fit these to the design. It could be that stray magnetisim from the pickups would find these to be an easier path than the core of the driver...on the other hand, eddy currents in them may lower the coils efficiency... pete My only concern with the fins would be them being steel, screening is usually done with non-ferris metal, Aluminum or Copper for instance, im no expert in most thing electrical, but i would be more inclined to use Aluminum fins. Thats not to say the blades won't work well as shielding though, like i said, im no expert lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ByDeR Posted June 7, 2007 Report Share Posted June 7, 2007 Thanks a lot for the info guys. I now have all that i need to build a sustainer. Just don't have much time now with all the college exams and so. Ill be doing it in my free time. I'll post as soon as i get something done. Im going to think about the driver, either a simple single coil neck, or a paralel humbucking style mid. Going to experiment both, to see the results. I shouldn't get much noise from EMI anyway, since i have active EMGs, and they are super quiet. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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