LGM Guitars

I like how this forum works www.helifreak.com It doesn't matter if I upload on the forum or use an image tag with my own server hosting pic's, they shrink in the forum, when you click the pic, it will go to full size, no clue how it works, but it's pretty cool.

The rules are for any picture posted using the tags, no more then 600 in any direction. It just makes it so much nicer when going through threads. If you're just posting links to images, make them as big as you like

Ok, not to be the prick here or anything, but I REALLY liked the rule about keeping pics no bigger than 600 pixels in either direction! I didn't have to scroll my screen around, you can see the whole image, it was nice! Today I took a couple minutes and read through some posts about new projects that I haven't looked at yet and holy crap!!!!!!! Pics that are well over 1000 wide. You can't even see the whole thing. First of all, it's annoying, secondly, it does nothing flattering for your pictures!!!! If you can't see the whole image it takes away from it. Also, not that I care about the number of pics in posts, but remember, it's one pic per post except in GOTM or in a tutorial. Anyway, it was just driving me up the wall to have to move all over the computer screen to try to see the whole guitar. Keep the pics a size that fits on the screen, or just post a link. PLEASE!

is the finish you're dealing with laquer? be sure if it is before doing anything. Honestly it sounds like you've maybe got hard water if it's stained. Maybe mineral deposits. Try sanding again with the 2000 dry if it worked in one area as you say. My first thought was that you didn't buff it enough. It's rare that you can hand buff with a compound to the same gloss as the rest of the guitar will have. ESPECIALLY if you used 600 to start with and then went straight to 2000. You will still have 600 grit scratches in there which will look hazy.

LOL, it's cracking me up how this thread started about how nice my guitar was, and now not a single person in here has said they are trying to choose between mine and something else or just that they like the leviathan best

well, today is left over spaghetti and coke. usually though, it's whatever sandwich the gas station on the way to work has that doesn't make my stomach turn just by looking at it.

I don't have any idea what "Demensions" are, I don't think you should get any until you learn to spell the word correctly LOL

LOL, see what ya did Godin, started this thread now the votes will stack against me just because LMAO!!!!

OUCH!!!!! don't know how I feel about nails through the Leviathan!!! LOL I'm flattered you like the design enough to do the 3D renderings, now just don't go building knock off's of it LOL!!!!

Does that mean I can't eat burrito's anymore?

Truth be told, I'd vote for alot of others over my own, but nobody else was in there so I figured what the hell LOL!!! While the leviathans are my favorite guitar (I'm a little biased) I still would vote for somebody who'd doing their first or second or whatever vs another one that I've built. GOTM is for everyone, I wouldn't even of entered except there was nobody else so far :-P

Less chance of getting caught if you play in your closet instead. Oops, did I actually say that

probably not, you can try putting a good sticky tape over teh spray paint and if you're lucky it will pull off the finish. The problem with any strippers, is you don't know how it will react to the original finish. Best case scenario it will probably dull the finish. Best bet would be sandpaper and then polish the original clear back up.

Finished guitar is in GOTM for May http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=15427

Ok, I'll enter the Deep Arctic burst Leviathan of Shane Regals. Dimarzio pickups, OFR trem, 1" thick quilted top, Alder body, quilted maple fretboard. Here ya go

well, I don't really agree with some stuff being said. First of all, yeah, the tuners are close to the edge, but it's not going to create any problems, your strings will clear, that's all that is really important, it's not like it's going to break through. The only place you might hate it is if the washers overhang the edge at all, but I don't think they will. Personally I quite like the headstock shape, I don't like it with a JEM shaped body, but the headstock shape itself is pretty cool IMO. The only real complaint I have is it looks like your A tuner is much closer to the D than it is to the E. As for the tuners angle, I don't agree with 90 degree's to the centerline, that never looks good, I try to make them perpendicular to the side of the headstock they are on, this means they won't necessarily all be the same angle, but it looks better when they are 90* to the edge they are mounted to. Especially from the front. PRS follows the headstock contour, Strat and tele headstocks all have tuners 90* to the edge, Ibanez, Jackson etc, all 90* to the edge. But that's just my thoughts, YMMV

Sadly nope, there isn't, it's either the clear has yellowed or the white has faded into offwhite. If it is just clear, you MIGHT be able to buff it if the yellowing is not deep, but my guess is there will be no joy.

The Edge Pro is hardly an improvement on the original lopro's, in fact, I think it's a few steps backwards. I don't care for anything about the edge pro systems As for dimensions, I'm probably in teh same boat as a lot of people here, I have lopro's on many guitars, but I'm not really interested in completely dissassembling one to measure it up. All the dimensions needed is a TON of work.

Now, I know my ms paint skills aren't very good, but at least a straight line is a straight line LOL!!!! I think he'll JUST sneak by with the G string, the string spacing of course on my drawing isn't quite right, but it looks like he'll JUST make it. Oh and Curtis, Since the beginning, I've thought that upper horn looked way to thick, I just figured you were doing it purposely.

RGGR, who does a piezo pickup that fits in a single coil cavity? I've never seen one, I've seen pickups sold and EQ'd as piezo's, but since a piezo works on the vibration of the string and not a magnetic field, I'm really not sure how it could work in a single coil space.

having used any form of enamel, you will most likely HAVE to use a water based clear (not just acrylic, acrylic does not always mean water based) Any solvent based clear will probably attack the enamel you used. This means no laquer, no poly's, nothing like that. Get him to do a couple scraps with the paint he's using and do some test strips first, sometimes you get lucky, but enamel has no place in artwork that must be clear coated.

One last point, I was reading back a few pages and read a couple comments on the zero fret moving the string break point closer to the 1st fret, it doesn't, not at all, the zero fret is placed so the crown is in the exact same position that a standard nut's front face would be placed on a non zero fret guitar.

Right Perry, my wording isn't clear enough, my understanding is, my ability to explain may not be. That's where I put "equalizing" the tension, I meant in the fretted note. Anyway, it's all moot, most people would never hear the difference, and, for what it's worth, every nut will possibly be slight different on the strobe to get it perfectly, and, it can theoretically change with a new set of strings if the strings aren't made to an exact tolerance, it also will change with different guages of strings, but, it will keep you much closer. Personally, I don't see the real need for compensated nuts for myself, my playing style doesn't require it, but I have never seen a need for a zero fret, I think they're dumb in pretty much every aspect LOL

I haven't read this whole thread, don't really want to now that it's 6 pages long, I've only read this page, I'll just chime in to add that: 1. Zero frets suck, I hate them, they look stupid, they're a pain in the ass to deal with when they wear, and they're much more difficult to properly replace than a properly cut nut. 2. Zero frets will do nothing close to what a compensated nut will. They will never act as a compensated nut period. Whether it's a standard nut, or a zero fret, they both accomplish the identical thing. The only fret that becomes critical with a nut or zero fret, is the 1st fret. If your nut action is to high it affects overall action, but if it's to low, it ONLY affects the open note, after the 1st fret is fretted, your nut or zero fret is irrelevant when it comes to fret buzz. So, what does the nut or zero fret accomplish, it will affect how much the string goes sharp when you fret a note. The lower the nut action, the less the string goes sharp, the higher, the more sharp it will play. Now, a compensated nut adjusts the scale length somewhat, think of it as intonation. Remember, your adjustment at the bridge will ONLY affect fretted notes. The string behind your finger no longer comes into play when you talk intonation at the bridge. The compensated nut is basically intonation at the nut, like your bridge, only now, it is affecting the open note since you are actually changing the scale length of the open string. By having less tension on the string (short scale length) you reduce the amount of tension placed on the string when you push it down. OF course each string and each scale length has a different tension, so the compensated nut adjusts for the amount of tension change when the string is fretted, equallizing it somewhat. This is what gives you better intonation with a compensated nut. It has changed the tension of the string overall. This allows the guitar to be in closer fretted tune with itself than harmonic tune. (ever notice how a guitar where the intonation isn't set can be perfectly in tune with 5th and 7th fret harmonics, but when you fret the 5th to open it's way off?) Anyway, this is wordy and confusing, I didn't understand how most of it worked until I took the Buzz Feiten course, but it does work, I find that the average person will never notice the difference even if they think they have great pitch, but you notice a huge difference on the strobe tuner. So, in conclusion, properly cut nut, and zero fret, identical idea. Compensated nut, something completely different. So, this comment Is completely false, a zero fret will never accomplish the same goal as a compensated nut.

LMAO!!!!!! I haven't had this much fun with a thread on here in a LONG time