LGM Guitars

I played that exact model at Guitar Center in Minneapolis, price tag of $199USD, and it played as nice as the actual Axis, actually, I liked it better. The neck is different, the OLP is a bit more tele shaped, but man, bang for the buck, you can't go wrong. I think Brian misunderstood as this being your custom project (the entire guitar I mean) instead of the trem mod, but, nice job on the swap, did it involve any routing? hehehe, thing is, you can't build a custom guitar for that kind of money, I'd like to know how they can build and sell them that cheap!!!!!!!

Ok, I think I just quit, that's amazing, I hate my life

Well, I'm hurting for money, so, I have to move some stuff, so, My JEM777DY is on the for sale block this guitar is mint, if you like players guitars, actually, it has chips and dinks, but it plays perfect, the neck is arrow straight, and everything works, it's not the prettiest DY in the world, but hey, it is a players axe! I love this guitar, and I hate to sell it, I really do, it looks so good with the rest of it's friends, but, times are tight, and I need to do this, so, someone please give it a good home. I am asking $777 shipped. It will come with a HSC, not a UV case, but a HSC. I can send pics if you're interested, and I do need to sell, so, I'm open to offers, but please, don't make an offer unless you are serious, I can't afford to hold it for someone who needs to think on it for a few days in case someone else wants it. Jeremy http://onlinerock.com/services/lgmguitars//dy.jpg http://onlinerock.com/services/lgmguitars//dy_2.jpg http://onlinerock.com/services/lgmguitars//dy3.jpg http://onlinerock.com/services/lgmguitars//dy4.jpg http://onlinerock.com/services/lgmguitars//dy5.jpg

This guitar is perfect, brand new with maybe an hours playing time on it. It is the archtop model, with drop D tuner, tobacco sunbust and a beautiful flame top. It has the fretboard guard, and the fitted Peavey case. Everything about it is completely perfect, there is NOTHING flawed. Pics available on request. Asking $900 shipped, firm. Please email me if interested Jeremy http://onlinerock.com/services/lgmguitars//wolfy.jpg http://onlinerock.com/services/lgmguitars//wolfy_2.jpg http://onlinerock.com/services/lgmguitars//wolfy_3.jpg

hmmmmmmm, like the concept, hate the guitar

I love it, gotta have one

Just thought I'd give mention to you guys that are new to inlaying, the most difficult part really, is cutting your shell blanks, but nothing is worse than cutting your shell, inlaying it, and realizing your shell is not what you wanted. Also, until you are used to routing, it's not hard to break your shell trying to press it into a slighty to small of a route. So, what to do what to do. Well, look at costume Jewellery, particularily in those road side native american stands, they have some beautiful abalone and MOP charms, earings, etc, and they are reasonably priced, in fact, cheap for what some of them are. Most can have the jewellery part removed (earing posts etc) and you can inlay the charm. It works great! Because they are real shell, you still learn how to finish the shell, levelling it, polishing, etc, and all the little tricks for filling around an inlay on a not so perfect route etc. Check it out, practice on some scrap pieces, and enjoy the results! Jeremy

Hey man, welcome to the forum!!! :ph34r:

Gabe, go on ebay, and do a search for luthier, and abalone, I bought an ounce of red abalone, and an ounce of green abalone, both really nice, for $15 an ounce.

well, I don't know how I'd feel about wet sanding with acetone when it can be used as a thinning agent for laquer, and we all know laquer is never impenetrable. I think acetone would dull the paint, soften it, etc. Just like isopropyl alcohol, it will dull a completely cured finish if you get it on there. Beyond that, the toxicity of acetone, and what it would do to your skin, I think I'll stick with water and detergent thank you.

Gabe, I would recommend, do all your priming, sealing etc, and then do the inlay before you spray any color, this way, you can mask off only the inlay (you are bound to have more fill showing than you want on first inlays) then spray color, and clear over the entire thing after you take your mask off. Jeremy <----- sweet emote

oh by the way dave, update your profile so people can get to your website

DAVE!!!!!!!!!!!! Hey dude, what's up? found this place huh? kewl, I learned all the basics from Dave and own 2 of his acoustics. Using a rasp is how I did the neck on the acoustic I built (thanx to Dave's instruction) Currently, the work I do is primarily inlay and finishing, but I have changed the shape of necks as well. A rasp works really good on a softer wood like mahogany, but on a harder neck like maple, I've learned the beauty of a band saw with a table you can set at angles, leaving the neck fretboard down allows you to cut various angles on the back of the neck to establish a radius made out of a bunch of small flats, once you have a rough shape (also, it is very easy to maintain symmetry using this method, you do the exact same cut on each side) then you can knock off the corners with a rasp, or good double cut file, I prefer the file as it doesn't leave the same big gouges the rasp does. Then, and I think this is the most important part, when you go after it with sandpaper, first use a block with heavy paper, like 80 or 120 grit. Work your way down to 320 grit on the block. You can then use some 400 to finish up by hand. You don't want to disregard the block, or you end up with funny bumps created by uneven pressure on the sandpaper, of course, there are areas you have to do it all by hand, such as right at the heel, and headstock of the neck, but for the most part, you can use the block. Routered necks are possible, but you still have a lot of hand finishing to do as a router bit is not a variable radius like the back of a neck, it starts off narrow and thin and gets wider and thicker. The route bit radius is a constant, you still need to finish up by hand, it's basically a good way to remove material quickly. However, router bits that size are very expensive, and custom shaped router bits are worse. Most factory built necks are done on a CNC milling machine of some sort, one with 4 axis capability, this is a wonderful way to do it, if you have an extra $400,000 kicking around, personally, I don't hehehe.

If you are going to use aluminum, you'll want to get it clear anodized or you'll forever be having black crap come off, plus it will corrode without anodizing. I would recommend getting a piece of mirror finish stainless steel, if possible, find a machine shop or tool and die shop with a wire EDM machine, they can cut it. It would be a little expensive though. However, stainless steel is a far better choice for the material as it won't corrode, and won't leave black on you everytime you touch it.

good to see you Kevan, been missin not having AIM to chat, and since you're to good for msn LOL, anyway, how the hell you been????????

I'm working on a billion things, unfortunately none are my projects, got a headstock refinish, fretboard replacement with inlay on a JEM, full inlay on a JEM7DBK, full material finish and inlay on a special customer's guitar, then I have my own stuff which will probably never get done LOL, my JEM911USA, and the neck through body Jem, only wish I had the time!!!!!!!!

Killer avatar for me Patrick, you rock dude, don't delete the URL now, I'll email you to tell you the same thing LOL Thanx bro!

Damn dude, you totally rock, whichever one, I don't care, they both look great! I do dig the black, but can we have that big a file size on here? I dunno, but they look killer! thanks dude! Jeremy

depends on the work being done, sometimes, tea and coffee are no good, you need beer!!!!!!!!!! LOL actually though, neither one, I'm a Dr Pepper addict

Hey guys, better late than never right? Hey patrick, can you make me a kewl avatar too? LOL