Belial

The piece of scrap wood that is. Sorry for not stating that.

Just to let you guys know, I didn't add the salt when I mixed the dye(salt is bad for wood). It just took alittle while longer for the dye to break down during the mix, and yes I tried it on a piece of scrap. I'm not going to try something untested on a guitar body. It's been about 2 weeks since I did it and so far there has been no color change, oxidizing, etc. It's stayed the way I described it.

sorry that's radius....R A D I U S. Long night at work.

Is it a major undertaking to change the 12" radious on a TOM to a 16" radious? And should I start with uncut saddles or would recutting the existing ones be okay?

thanks

I've been looking around at some different dye ideas and decided to try clothing dye. This was mix yourself stuff in a packet not liquid. Any ways I used one packet of black dye on a piece of basswood and it turned out looking like a black walnut sort of thing after putting a couple of coats of tungue oil on it. If I can get ahold of a camera I'll post some pictures of it.

I make a similar mistake with my strat when doing the neck pocket on it. Instead of trying to straighten up the pocket and shim it, I used glass bedding for gunstocks and dyed it to the same colour as the wood. It worked out great, very little work involved.

pickup a saga kit today for 50 bucks (the dealer dropped it while showing to me taking a quarter sized chunk out of the veneer). is there a better way to remove it other than sanding the hell out of it?

to be honest, its down to personal preference. closer to the bridge will give more attack. i like mine really close.

Yeah, what he said.

I don't see why not, although the hotrod is still a good choice. I'm sure you'd be happy with either one.

Another thing you could do is walk into a local music store with a tapemeasure and a note pad, write down the measurements for the setups that you like. Just keep in mind that depending on scale length and the number frets will determine how much space you have for your pickups.

Why not just go with a wilkinson and locking tuners? be easier overall wouldn't it?

Depth of neck pocket: 10cm

Width of neck heel: 2 in. 3cm

Are you sure thats correct? The DEPTH of the pocket should be about 20mm, the LENGTH about 75mm and the WIDTH about 60mm.

Keith

I agree, but with squire thier dimentions change from model to model so it's hard to say. Are you trying to build a replacement neck or a body to fit your existing neck?

What about something like this http://www.interlog.com/~ask/scale/tips/booth.htm? Shouldn't be too hard to change the dementions to fit bodies and necks.

1/2" away with jigsaw(simply because the jigsaw won't cut straight down at all times

this is true!! i cut my body out with a jigsaw, and it wasnt straight. its the internal curves that kill them. the blade binds on an internal curve, and heats up causing friction, then the blade becomes more susceptible to bending forces, and it tends to spiral inward. it didnt matter with my body, as there was sufficient wood to shape this out, it actually followed the shaping i wanted pretty well! use a coarser blade also, these cause less spiriling, since they can cut the wood easier. easier cutting means less friction = less heat = less spiriling.

D'oh... I wish I had read this the day before I cut my bodies yesterday. I used a jigsaw and I kept somewhat distance to the drawn body lines on the wood. But still, I noticed afterwards that several lines had been cut uneven - certainly not straight - and in some places I am not sure how to recover it.

Learning it the hard way I suppose

Do you guys think I can fix some of this up with woodfiller?

I'll keep at least 1/2" distance next time I jigsaw a body..

Eskil

I haven't had any problems with using a jigsaw. You just have to get enough relief cuts in for the curves, really important around the horns.

Look here. They have great descriptions. ED Roman has some, but he doesnt cover a whole lot.

Well if I understand the info correctly, that would be a very bright sounding guitar.Probably too bright, although a mohagany/black walnut mix looks about right for what I want.

Thanks guys for the links.

Sorry thats supposed to be 1/4" plexy.

Thanks for the help. I am using the stew-mac templates but I've gotten ahold of some 1/2" plexy and copied the originals so I don't have the warping problem.

Once again thanks.

Anyone know where I could by or get building plans for a router jig to cut angled neck pockets?

What do you guys think of a 1in. thick red oak body with a 3/4 in. thick cherry top? I've got a good idea of what it would look like but not really how it would sound. Lots of opinions would be great.

Thanks.

In reguards to a 2 piece body thats been glued together at the centerline, will this prevent me from applying a oil finish since it won't soak into the glue line?

When practicing your routering, is it important to use the same kind of wood that you are using for your body, or will a different scrap hardwood do?

No, I don't think you'd have to use the same kind of wood for practicing routing(that could get kind of expensive). Just practice on 2x4's and 2x6's out of pine or douglas fir and you'll be fine. As for practicing your body routs I suppose you could glue together some cheap 2x12's and use that (kinda practice your jointing and glueing skills at the same time sorta thing).

This helps, thanx.

Does any know where I can find Information on how to correctly install both locking and roller nuts?

Well after some messin around with ideas I decided not to use another piece of wood. I ended up going with glass bedding for rifle stocks (slow set time). It's working out pretty good. It didn't change the way the guitar sounds or feels.

Oh ya! For anyone who also tries this stuff be sure to puchase release agent with it. This stuff bonds to just about everything.

They're not avail. in lefties. Have a friend that contacted saga for one. It was a no go.