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Carl762

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Posts posted by Carl762

  1. Well, hit Home Depot yesterday and bought the only Ridgid R4330 they had. Wasn't listed on their websites anywhere, they had no planers on display. I was getting ready to leave, then asked a grumpy looking employee who promptly walked me over to the box and loaded it into my cart for me, with a smile. :D I thanked him profusely. Bought it home and unpacked it and did the once over of the manual. The construction of the thing is top notch and the handles make it very convenient to move. I'm going to initially try mounting it on a very steady portable work stand

    Today, just finished making coffee and heading out to the shop to fully assemble it. Need to get a universal hose adapter for dust collection and this afternoon, I'll be planing my first boards, including a test guitar body blank for an overall practice run using planer, bandsaw, spokeshaves and ohter hand tools, then the router.

    Thanks Rick, and all, for the recommendation. Thanks ODOR for the 18.6% tax kicker check I received yesterday. It covered my planer and left me with a few hundred extra to, of course, buy more tools.

    Next, the sander. This week, it's bonus time, and they've worked us to death this year. :D

  2. I have that Ridgid planer. Love it. No problems whatsoever. Works great, leaves a really smooth planed surface.

    You might check to see how long it'll be before the newer model is out though. It's going to have three knives instead of two, and operate at a higher speed, so lots more cuts per inch. Going down in price $20 or $30 too, I read somewhere.

    Thanks. I will check, but I'm going to have a, a real problem having to wait. :D Dang!

    I just read another great review. The Ridgid is looking real good. Thanks again.

  3. I going to buy a thickness planer. I was set on getting the 13" Dewalt DW735, until I read a few bad reviews. I then searched this site and read up, but still need some help making up my mind.

    I'm trying to narrow it down, and I'm heavily leaning on purchasing this one:

    http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores...uctId=100083773

    I read here on the site that the Steel City 13" Deluxe Planer might be a good buy. I notice that Woodcrafters has it, which is close to home.

    I then looked at, briefly, the Delta 13" 22-580.

    However, I'm leaning towards the Ridgid. The $200 saved from purchasing the Dewalt can be well spent on a drum sander, which will essentially complete the outfitting of my shop.

    Any advice will be appreciated. Thank you.

  4. hello folks,

    i've been working in a guitar shop for a year now, doing counter work, and learning how to fix guitars, and i daresay i'm pretty good at it. but recently however, the luthier i've been learning under got fired. i'm to the point now were i can work independantly, so i need ot build up a toolbox to prepare for the day when i dont have the luxury of the shop bench.

    heres what i have so far:

    good drill

    drill bits

    socket set

    reaming bit

    set of needle files

    regular files

    set of screwdrivers

    radius gauges

    good ruler

    truss rod wrenches

    wirecutters

    string winders

    lots of 000 steel wool

    lots o rags

    polish, fretboard oil

    super glue/epoxy

    paint and stain touch up pens

    set of nut files

    am i missing anything? i notice stewmac is expensive, is there anywere i can get this stuff used? what kind of budget am i looking at?

    http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=10353

    See the sticky threads?

    Sorry about the lost job, but good luck in your new endeavor. Stewmac is expensive, but you get what you pay for. If you buy cheap, you'll replace tools and ultimately spend more. You'll need planes, spokeshaves, fret tools, a long straight edge, perhaps a adjustable to 45 watt soldering iron, flux, solder, many other things. Hmm, you'll need a hot glue gun, hot pot maybe, glues, epoxies, clamps a plenty, different sizes, shapes and types.

    Get a Stewmac catalog and prioritize your needs.

    Read on my good fellow.

  5. Having to hone the blade isn't much of an issue to me, but how is the quality of the blade - does it keep an edge well, and how sharp an edge can it get? Is the bed of the spokeshave flat and providing a good mating surface?

    They keep an edge well. It feels razor sharp to me. Yes, once properly adjusted/honed, according to Kunz's instructions, they're good tools. I favor the straight spokeshave and the mini's for smaller areas.

    Setch, sweet plane. I'd love to build one of those, or buy one.

  6. Indeed.

    I purchased the Kunz in the pic and a straight one (Woodcrafters) It's required right out of the box to sharpen and hone them. I spent an afternoon sharpening, honing, adjusting, finally making shavings. They work fine, now. The store I got them from advertised a sharpening service, but only does that for internet sales.

    I bought the little 3 piece mini set from Lee Valley, and want to get one of their high quality spokeshaves. Had to tune up the mini's too.

    I've used the straight mini and the straight Kunz on a neck repair job. I really like using a spokeshave.

  7. That is a scarey blade. I use gloves when handling the blades. They are kinda mean, like a rattlesnake.

    I've saving my dough for a good woodworking bandsaw. I bought the horizontal saw strictly for metal work. Only changed the blade once. I'm very happy that this silly problem is solved.

    Well, out to the shop. I have a headstock repair to do. Some people are either accident prone or have no respect for instruments. Once repaired and installed, it'll be my second guitar rebuild. I'm yanking the pots and pups out of a BC Rich Warlock and replacing them with Seymour Duncans.

  8. Thanks for the kind replies. Learning the hard, and long, way is best sometimes. Funny, two or three friends had no clue about this, including the friend who owns the same saw. Ya, I use gloves when dealing with anything metal. I love this saw, for cutting metal, aluminum, sometimes wood.

    I had toyed with the idea of using the platform and trying to use it for cutting wood, but NAH, I want/need a real woodworking bandsaw.

    I think my brain is re-fired and running correctly now.

    Of course, that's subject to debate.

    Carl

  9. wow, is right. I win the dummy award of the month.

    Owned the saw two years, light use. Changed blade once. Didn't think about the orientation. Then, it's pointed out to me. I look look look and nothing. I don't figure it out and look like an idiot on an internet forum. But I'm man enough to admit it.

    That's OK. I want this thread to be testiment to the fact. My buddy telling me, Oooh, look it's wrong. Tells me no other way to mount and he never had to do this either.

    If what Mattias said couple days ago would have clicked couple days ago and worked last night. Then it bothers me enough to be thinking about it in the shower this morning. Last night, I twisted here and there, etc., hmm, just felt like it didn't want to turn inside.

    Today, I hold blace out horizontally, do a figure of 8 twist and bam. I LEARNED A HARD LESSON.

    Never thought I would have to do that to a blade, but hmmm, I admit it.

    I do know all my other tools so much better. I won't make this mistake again.

    I thank the big guys on this board for visiting my thread, making me think about how dumb I am, forcing me to finally figure it out.

    How frustrating and embarassing. Lesson learned. I called the guy first pointed this out to me, and he says, hmm, never knew that. He's a Ferrari mechanic. Doh!!!

    Thanks guys. I've built two houses, a barn, many cabinets, many repairs to wood and metal over the years. Doh!!!!

  10. No it didn't get hot or snap. Last night I attempted to turn it over, around, inside out. No go. Teeth are pointing the right way and the motor is wired wrong. I see no way to reverse the teeth, the darned band is tight, almost impossible to manipulate, turn inside out. I put the band back on, tightened it, and proceeded to cut a 3 in steel bar and called it a night. Thanks for your a-help. It makes absolutely no sense that I would buy a new blade and have to manipulate it in any way to use it on the saw. I'm disgusted, maybe just dumb. I don't get it.

  11. I'll be taking a look at my local Woodcraft store. My last time there, the power tools were all crammed into a corner, undisplay like. The majority the this magical place was huge displays of wood, and the walls of router bits, planes, carving tools, I was wowed.

    That's a nice saw. $749. Looks like the one I posted, Grizzly has a 2 hp motor. However, no shipping, greater resaw distance. Thanks dude.

    Yes, it's very frustrating indeed when the instructions give you an impression you're sure is right, only to discover doh!!!!

  12. This is the newer, updated version of the same saw, just to make it clear, as I wasn't in my first posts.

    http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=93762

    Now, here I correct myself; i.e., which way the blade is moving. When in the upright position, it does indeed go down. There's a table you can attach for using in upright position. Just now, looked at it, started it, and as I said the teeth are pointing up. Like I said previously, I've used it for cutting in the position you see on the link (horizontal), while not noticing, using the back side of the teeth to cut.

    I'll be able to pull the blade in a few, after culinary duties are essentially finished, and I go into simmer mode.

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