grungehead

I had to chuckle there... Tube amps generally have the tubes exposed so they don't melt from their own heat.

Well, you learn somthing new everyday.

Wow, thanks alot guys. I opened up my amp today and found out, to my surprise, that is was a solidstate

But all is not lost! I found out that my problem was that I had a blown fuse. I replaced the fuse and the amp just blew it up again. I replaced it again and it started smoking and then blew. I'm going to have to buy a new amp and I'm looking at some tube ones.. so this information is really helpful. However, after playing several tube amps and can honestly say I did not see much of a difference between my Crate and the tube heads at GuitarCenter.

No, I'm not here to advertise anything, but I had a Crate G160XL (discontinued) and a Boss equalizer running through the gainstage and I must say it was the crunchy-est, crispiest tone, tightest tone I've heard in a long time. Honestly comparable to the Peavy Joe Satriani signature head.

Thanks Again

I need a 2W 10K resistor for an amp discharging tool, but the local Radioshack doesn't carry them...

However, they do carry 10K resistors at 1/2 W and 1/4 W and such..

As you can probably tell by now I'm a noob at wiring resistors.. my question is: Can I wire two or more resistors to get 2W 10K?

I did a search on here and google but I think I'm not phrasing it right or somthing because I'm coming up with zilch.

Thanks for you help guys

you never see an active humbucker + a passive neck pickup in one guitar.

I'm wondering because i want to put a seymour duncan blackout bridge and keep the stock dean neck (passive) pickup.

Will this cause problems?

I never know why this forum produces year+ old threads from time to time.

because i'm here

i really dont like bumping things up from the dead but i'm making a flame maple pickguard and i had to ask

I've seen some very nice examples of regular old plastic pickguards covered with veneer.

how is that done? what kind of glue is used?

Stop your build until you have read up on intonation and how scales are derived..-Article. Side reading in case you want a little more on the octave-link

You can use stewmacs calculator to help you place a bridge, but if you are going to build an instrument. The first thing you should have a solid grasp on is why frets are located where they are and why intonation corrections need to be made.

After you read up on the subject, ask questions if something is not clear. When you understand the theory you will never have to guess why you are placing a bridge here or there, what these distances mean, or what dictates the location of frets in relation to the bridge saddles.

P.S. Since string gauge and properties are directly related to this subject you would do well to go to the Daddario site and read there free information also.

Do this and you will prevent yourself from having a gap in your understanding that WILL haunt you until you learn it. Better now than after you muck up two or three builds .

Peace,Rich

P.S. My suggestion is not only offered to the author of this topic .

whoah i just made the template.. i havent built anything yet

i just looked at it and said to myself, 'damn this looks off'.

i took a piece of masking tape, cut it to the length from the nut to the 12th fret, and then took that tape and placed it from the 12th fret and marked on my template.

the mark is the center of the TOM but i guess my question is how far back can the low 'e' be? Actually... a better question is what angle is the TOM set at? i've searched but IMO the PG search function sucks..

right now i have it drawn on the template at about a 10 deg angle.

is there anything wrong with having an uneven scale length?

i.e., the distance from 12th fret to bridge not being the same as the distance from nut to 12th fret?

Yes, you either slotted your fingerboard wrong, or are using a neck that is not compatible with your build.

specifically what would happen? i only have one neck for this build...

part 2: im using a TOM bridge at an angle; the 'd' and 'g' string saddles are in scale length but high and low e arent. is this normal?

is there anything wrong with having an uneven scale length?

i.e., the distance from 12th fret to bridge not being the same as the distance from nut to 12th fret?

Thanks guys. i signed up to mimf and now i just have to find where to get my rhoads template.

Cheers to all of you!

YES!!! thank you so much!!!

CHEERS!!!!

* i cant find one thats under 60 freaking dollars.

i dont remember where but i remember a site selling drawings for 10 bucks and then 6 bucks S&H. but i cant find that site anymore.

damn you google.

does anyone know?

i have a crate amp with a 12" speaker. it has about a 1" tear in the paper-like material. i noticed it when i started to play loud the amp began to have this rattling vibration, and upon dissecting it i noticed the tear.

i tried gluing it together. its drying right now, and i hope this will help the problem.

was this the right thing to do?

rock on guys

EDIT: the tear is fully repaired but it still has this annoying rattling noise when its turned up loud...

i double-tripled checked everything was bolted down and that the speaker is not vibrating against any part of the amp

i also have a LOUD pop when you turn the volume up, even when your not playing. i thought that this was just because the amp was old but i wondering if i could fix it?

clicky

*watch the gibson video

make note of which wire is lead and which is ground. an easy way to tell is to to look at the wires from the pickup and look at which one connects directly to either the 1st or 2nd lug of the volume pot (lead) and which wire is soldered to the outside of the pot (ground).

if 2 wires are soldered together then that would be your 'north finish and south finish' according to guitarelectronics.com

the only way you can be 100% sure is to use a multimeter. the video in the link shows how to use one.

good luck!

im pretty sure lace is a passive pickup, which means that you dont have to use a 9v battery to power it. (if you do, then you have an active pickup)

with passive pickups you typically want to use 500K pots. if your using active, use 250K.

guitarelectronics.com has every wiring schematic possible.. and their diagrams are the easiest to follow anywhere.

in short, you want to find your lead or 'hot' wire from your pickup and connect that to the lug of the pot. find your ground wire and solder that directly to the casing of the pot.

take another wire, attatch that to the ground you just made, and then solder the other end to your bridge (or tremolo claw).

other helpful links:

With 5 single coils in parallel (as shown in both diagrams), the total output will be pretty low. I know DC resistance doesn't tell you everything about a pickup, but it's a start. Let's say each pickup has a DC resistance of 6k. When they're all in parallel, you have [1/R1] + [1/R2] etc. = 1/Rtotal. Five pickups at 6k, in parallel, have a DC resistance of 1.2k. Assuming the magnetism and pickup height are comparable to a Strat pickup, you now have 1/5 the normal Strat 1-pickup output.

Also, you have to wire the volume pots in such a way that they don't interact with each ohter. I.e., so that turning down one pot doesn't kill the output of every pickup. There's a way to do this (Gibson did it with their 2vol/2tone guitars). It involves swapping connections as opposed to Strat pot wiring, but I'm not sure what the difference is. If you follow a Gibson diagram just for the 3 connections on each pot, you should be fine.

Not to poop the party, but I don't think this will work very well, and I personally wouldn't bother with it.

what if he added a booster? i know this would add yet another knob..

you could just wire the booster so that it is always on, always full blast... (no knob needed)

then you'd be going through batteries faster than courtney love goes through men...

or...

you could use a stero jack and use the power from that to power it! huzzah! an answer to all of your problems!

Thanks!

The aluminum is about $100 per 12"x18"x1" block.

Yeah the clip is real basic, just an SM57 on a vintage 30 speaker running a 5150 amp. No trick studio stuff. Just raw tone!!

My revised guitars will feature custom Warmoth necks.....far better than the cheapy Ibanez chinese neck that was used on the recording.

chinese neck or not the guitar f-ing rocks!

are you using a drum machine or is that a band? just curious...

Thats good news. Whats did you use as insulators? Btw, got any pics of this aluminum guitar of yours? and how did you construct it? CNC from a billet? or?

Sorry I'm just now getting back....

I used rubber o-rings for insulators...hahah!

I got a website for the guitars here.... www.660guitars.com There is an audio clip and pics....the pics are a little dated, as my next revision has some very small changes. But these pics are still VERY close.

I made with a CNC and used T6061 alumium.

THANKS!

Drew

my god.. what a beautiful guitar and playing.. very metal.. very Slipknot-ish...

how much was it for the T6061?

Theyre supposed to be all single coils and the point with all this was to not have a switch, but insteaad have the ability to lower the volume (to zero) if you dont want the pickup to recieve signals.

im pretty sure this diagram here would work

i forgot to add that you need to connect sleeve to ground and all the other things that have the grounding symbols together. i would solder each pickup's ground wire to the corresponding pot and then ground all the pots together via a really long wire.

hope this helps!

started and finished the project this morning

i used godin's diagram. it works wonders.i added a master tone because i had two knobs to begin with and i dint want a dummy knob laying on my guitar so...

i'm definately gonig to do this in my superstrat project someday. thanks again to those who helped!!

as for the black ice, i think my mod works much more as a "distortion" or "booster" than the black ice does. it may not give it that fuzz effect but now i can switch distortion incognito. and you dont have to have high output to do it

same here thats why i havent tried it yet i might try it in my next project im not sure though.

dont they just overdrive a tube amp? that wouldnt do crap for me since im not using a tube amp.. i dont think i'll ever use them. i would love to see what your gonna do with them though.

i've got a boss mt-2 and the ge-7. plenty of dark, crunchy, super heavy distortion for me and the rest of the neighborhood

what kind of music do play? to me this looks like a metal-type guitar.. i dont think p-90's (or a clone of them) are the best choice in my opinion..

but what do i know? tone is all in the fingers...

put up some sound clips when your finished.. i would love to hear some

rock hard man

1. Looks fine to me.

2. Depends on your bridge height. Most guitars require some angle, even Fenders (that's why they are often shimmed). If you build with no angle, you may have to elevate the neck slightly. All this stuff is in Hiscock's book, which I highly recommend.

3. MDF

4. It won't cause hum, but it may be more susceptible to hum.

whats MDF?

projectguitar has a tutorial on how to do some simple bursts in their tutorial section.. although i think it leaves a distinct line so it may be of no help to you but you should check it out

read this too

basically you want to stain, let it dry, LIGHTLY sand with super high grit paper around the middle, then do a darker coat on the perimeter.