ray

my last one for 2012

a favorite theme of mine with a twist - this one was designed from the ground up to augment my customers collection of teles

he wanted something that sounded and looked different to the others but with typically T style layout

we came up with "The Prospector"

Specs

· Model: The Prospector [Astrocaster © body]

· Body: top & back bound select timber binding

· Tasmanian Blackwood top and rear cap, Vic Ash core,

· Finish - Polished and sealed with "No Skin" finish

· Neck: Vic Ash with Cooktown ironwood fret board.

· 25.5”scale - 9.5" radius, Standard "F" profile

· Tuners: Gotoh locking

· Pickups: Hand wound Brierley 52 tele bridge, Firebird neck

· Bridge, Ferrules, string tree: Callaham Guitars USA

· Pick Guard - Copper plate

· Electronics: Select caps and pots -Switchraft hardware, high pass filter

· Controls: master volume and tone - pickup selector

· Weight: 3.4 kg - 8lbs

· Serial number 22-271112

I wish the Aussie flag looked as cool! I've wanted to do an Aussie flag guitar for a while but I cannot seem to get an image in my head that will look great.

personally i reckon the aussie flag looks very cool - but to go way cool the eureka flag is the one

well done mate i love it

bahaus meets art deco kind of feel in the design

there you go mate - now you got a decent office guitar

its easy to beat yourself up over this kind of stuff and destroy a guitar that doesn't meet your preset notions as to what it should be

put it together string it up and remember all the stuff this one taught you - use it as an office beater or whatever for a few months and see if it holds together - if it does, move it on for a reasonable price - i am sure someone will love it to death for reasons you can't imagine - or even better find a young player who needs and cant afford a decent guitar and give it away - i bet this one will be a long way better than the crap hanging on the wall of the local music shop

btw maybe you should forget about the limba and move it on -

most forums have the facility to modify posts after posting - reasons include bad wording, spelling, further info or clarity

had a look around but can't seem to find out how to edit my posts or topic

thanks

have this guild dreadnought here with a little work required on the frets, action etc

it has some playing wear on the top to be repaired - the finish has been worn through in a couple of spots - the areas are roughtly palm sized

the guitar looks a little worn - to my eye a well played guitar has its own beauty

my gut feeling is intervene as little as possible in order to maintain the beautiful tone of this guitar -

it is finished in a matte surface lacquer which could be nitro or shellac - more likely the former

i am reticent to put anything on the surface [worn spots] as there is no moisture barrier

any one have some advice on a way of treating the worn spots??

this one has been a bit of a departure from my usual builds - it has taken a while - building in a busy repair & service workshop has its challenges

i only get to my builds when the pressure is off and these days that time is becoming harder to find

i always loved offset bodies, trems and humbuckers so this one has all 3 of those features

it is based on the jazzmaster / surfcaster type of shape but a bit smaller - it is quite a small guitar - bright and punchy tone

Specs

• Body: Top bound and chambered- Queensland maple cap, victorian ash core, Maple binding.

• Finish - The wood is polished to a satin gloss and sealed with top grade sealing oil for a very natural feel.

• Neck: Victrorian ash with Indian rosewood board.: 25.5”scale - 12"" radius C profile -

• Tuners: Gotoh locking mini's

• Pickups: Handwound custom made Brierley PAF set - uncovered.

• Bridge: Wilkinson floating 2 point trem - stainless steel saddles, nickel steel trem block

• Electronics: Select caps and pots -Switchraft hardware

• Controls: master volume and tone - pickup selector

• Weight: 2.9 kg - 6.4lbs

• Serial number 018-100411

pics

i am sure someone round here has used one of these and may have found the same as i have

the arm is just too high off the bridge - it slides in and screws onto an allen screw that is installed from under the bridge

the arm istelf has been drilled and tapped from inside [reverse of fender's]

do i really have to cut this arm short and lose the thread?

or is it possible to back the allen screw out allowing the arm to slide in further

i tried this but it is in so tight i can't budge it with a normal size key

possibly locked in so it cant screw out via action from above

I think, it's heavy weight guitar.

Fat sound?

the guitar is lightweight at just under 6 pound

fat sound mmmm yeah

wound back it is clear and bright wind it on and it is thick and meaty with an edge that slices through a dense mix

the pickups really are somerthing else and are hand wound by Mick Brierley

in adelaide - they are his vintage modern humbuckers

sorry about the lack of tool pix for you workshop addicts

i run a workshop blog on my website if you care to take a peek

alittle more here

thanks for the positive comments - it is much appreciated

i often call by here for inspiration - the builders who post here are doing remarkable work and i like the fact that posters sometimes get stuck in with positive criticism

on most boards you get "aaahhh its wonderful" posts or no replies

Hi all - i have lurked here for quite some time and never posted

i won't post all the pics of bits of wood and machines as there is nothing in the process that hasn't been covered here already

a conservative project by the measure of many who post here, this one is my 17th effort -

a great little screamer - I have had it out on shows several times and it is particularly awesome combo with my 59 deluxe

note the heavy duty [3mm] recessed neck plate - a liitel something I have found adds a lot in tone

The guard btw is optional - mainly there to protect it as it is a try out guitar - see last pic for the naked look

Vintage style 1 piece maple neck 10" radius medium frets

Walnut top [4mm]

Mahogany core

Maple binding

shaller heads

gotoh hardtail strat bridge

Brierly Vintage modern Pickups

Those speedbor bits are horrible for precision work, as Avenger said they pull through the timber way too quickly, I would avoid them for guitar work.

Everything is looking as precise as usual around here, no comment required other than a well done and get a wriggle on. I'm getting old watching this build.

here we call em auger bits

pull straight into the timber real quick - slow speed and powerfull drill required

great for fence posts or construction work

crap for guitars and other light wood work

using a point fence is way better than a normal tablesaw type fence

use a table saw type fence an you will fine out all about blade drift when you ruined a couple pieces high dollar wood

i use a makita 1/4 sheet palm sander

in benedetto's book he recomends using a 1/4 sheet palm sander

just make sure you don't move too quick, be thorough, use fresh paper and use every grade grit you can get

beyond 1500 you need to be using cutting compound

oh make sure you have a good solid thickness of well cured lacquer

also you will still needa do the edges by hand

the most valuable telecasters of all were made of pine - a cheap softwood scorned by instrument makers

i made a pine tele and it sounds real good - i will make some more of pine - many like the tone you get off a pine tele

also many fine hollowbody guitars have top and bottom plates made of maple ply - think gretsch

its butt ugly man

i dont think you can do anything to pretty that up

the flame maple guard adds to its "unappeal" so keep it

may as well go all out and go for the ugliest build on the forum

its in the class of that tele on tdpri made out of composite flooring

no it aint a tele

but mmm fun to play i bet

Schaller's 3D is a handy bit of kit. Each saddle's adjustable for height and spacing and it can be used for no angle or some angle with the shim provided.

+1 on that

this bridge is a good choice for a 1st build as it has a deep throw on the intonation, has sideways saddle adlustment, mounts with 3 screws to the body and is back loaded. the saddles also lock. it comes with a shim as batfink says so you can have it high or low depending how your neck sits

it gives wide tolerances with placement unlike the recessed TOM or even strat hardtail with the hassle of string through body

technically very simple setting it up

#7 or #8 jointing plane is all you need

a magnetic [rare earth] fence helps

have your cutter honed dead flat across the cutter edge

your #5 jack is likely to have a slight upward curve

a decent jointing plane will cost nearly as much as a power jointer

unless you can find a 2nd hand one in good nick

hey dude

that guitar is killer

you gonna have a lotta fun with it both makin an playin

i betcha you gonna blow all them old fuddie duddies away once you get it crankin

more strength to your arm

you better off payin higher money for good wood from reputable dealers

seal the ends with wax and set the piece aside for a year in a warm dry area before using

in the meantime buy a blank from USACG or warmoth

after you finish a guitar or two your brazil mahogany will be good to go if it dont split

warping or cupping as its known will machimne out

you get what you pay for

nice chunk of wood there dude

btw i would recomend using heavier material for ur template - i find 12mm mdf good and cheap - the 6mm will be a bit floppy for general use - finish the 6mm and cut a 12mm working template in 12mm off it - umm actually make 2 so you dont have to use your master template again

- dont breathe in the dust mdf makes its very toxic

btw how much was that wood? i am in melb also and wouldnt mind checking out that place in balwyn

you should go see mathews timber in rooks rd vermont they have some great timbers at good prices

i would definitely leave it as is cosmetically

clean her up

do the frets and get it playing

do not cut it anywhere - you will probably find that when you get it playing it is a fine old guitar in its own right

if you want an sg custom just build one and keep the old girl for a tochstone to your past

hand it onto your kids when you cant play it any more

its prolly worth good money

easier is glue a decent splinter of wood into the hole and re screw the end pin in

a match is good

Thanks. I understood the basic principle already, but I thought it was going to involve some complex geometry or wood shaping. Folded up business cards will really do the trick?

sure - at fender in the early days they used bits of lucky strike cigarette packs

i use brass shims - you can get 1/2" brass bar in very small thickness at hobby shops - get a few thin ones in different sizes

it dont take much to get the right tilt to bring that action down...

that guit looks cool