ray

saw some of this today and really liked the look of it

wondered if it might be good for guitar tops as in thinline or droptops

would make a refreshing change from the overdone curly/quilt look

such pretty swirling grain and woold look cool bookmatched

so nobody ever used american oak?

saw some of this today and really liked the look of it

wondered if it might be good for guitar tops as in thinline or droptops

would make a refreshing change from the overdone curly/quilt look

such pretty swirling grain and woold look cool bookmatched

Anybody here used it for any of the above?

the tuner are obviously crap

either turn it in for warranty replacement or

go to a repairer and get some schallers or grovers fitted

guyatones are pretty good too

I found a real light piece of vic ash at a local yard that gave a nice tap and got it do a tele in solid colour

it does look pretty plain with just a clear coat.....

it is so light but still hard and looks like a normal piece till you pick it up

i reckon like a previous poster that it would be usefull in chambered bodies with a fancy top

be good to keep an eye on builds using this easy to get timber

i am giving it a try on a project right now

just carved a bolt on neck out of a pice of 1/4 cut i found --- does seem a bit whippy but no fret board on yet

if its really crap i will build one out of maple

it is prone to tearout during routing

if you hit it hard with a orbital sander it can tear big bits out of the surface

it is a pain to finish as the grain is pretty open but no worse than mahogany or swamp ash.

works nice with hand tools and for the price you pay for premium i dunno whether its really worth the issues

will post back with the finished guitar

btw jim dyson uses it and his guitars are great

to the OP

a trem is pretty tricky and a floyd is very tricky to set up so they plays good

i would recomend as a first build a hardtail start or a tele

the tele bieng the easiest of the two

you learn heaps over the first 2 or 3 builds with out the added complications the trem will add to the job

once you got 1 or 2 easy ones done you'll be ready for the trem

if you build it from scratch you should get ur dough back if yu sell it to finance the next build

youve had plenty advice on this

you seem determined to do it do ur faux binding

dont expect others to say its ok if they dont think it is ok

go ahead and do the job

post pics and see what everyone thinks

if it looks crap you were warned

if it looks great you were right and proved the majority wrong

personally i would not do it to one of my guitars -

the welded is double acting

the 2nd is a single acting box type like the old jap ones though they were of aluiminuim

i would go for the welded double action if i was you

who did you get the neck off??

you might have a neck with a short truss rod in it and over time it may warp the neck

thse hotrods come in a few sizes

the day your neck was built they ran out of rods and put an accoustic rod [shorter] in your neck

i would send it back if i were you

many of the cheapo squires had bridge mount as opposed to string through

if you feel adventurous why not have a go at putting the holes and ferrules in yourself

it requires a bench drill, 1/8 bit and a standard strat string through hard tail bridge

also you might wanna do a bit of research on getting ur holes perfectlcty straight so the are evnely spaced on the back as well as the front

1/8" drill bits can wander a little through a 2" thickness

ogten the holes on the back are a bit out of wack

screw the bridge down and puch the holes through the holes in the bridge about 1/4" is enough so you can flip the body to drill them from the back. you need to mount a 1/8" steel about 1/2" long pin driectly under ur bit and push the body onto the pin on each of the 6 holes you done on the front...that way ur holes on the back layout perfect

btw a hardtail strat sounds really great with stringthrough hasrdtail IMHO better than the standard trem bridge

Is it 6 a side or 3x3 layout? I assume you have a template the shape of the headstock made up. Then you mark you string spacing at the nut and position your tuners so you have clearance for each each string past each tuner. If you have an odd shape headstock then the distance from the edge may vary.

The golden rule for successful guitar building is to make templates for all parts by drawing everything full size so you know precisely it all works before you cut any wood or drill any holes. It also makes it much simpler in your mind how it all fits together.

yeah done that

stuck a printout of the drawing onto some mdf

will cut it out with a bandsaw and true it up on the drum sander

its a 3x3 pretty close to les paul stock but not quite

thanks

I am just about to do the headstock on the neck I am building

distance from the edge of headstock to centre of tuner hole is 1/2"

is that correct??

thanks

Short answer is "do not do it."

This is just something that everyone in the world tries to convince you will make you play faster,but in reality it does not,and you risk the neck to do so.most necks are already thin enough.

what about an Epiphone Les Paul style? I know they have a lot of extra beef on there. Wouldn't that make it a little safer than other guitars? I'm not talking about taking off a huge portion of the back or reshaping the profile. Would just a little bit off the back be ok? I'm not an expert here.

you said it "I'm not an expert "

i seen many lovely old guitars ruined by having the neck "shaved" as we used to call it. It was fashionable in the 70's to take the old 60's strat in to have the neck shaved. mostly what you got in the end was a new neck as the old one would bend twist or crack. Also you gotta know that a stiff heavy neck gives great tone. If you gotta have a slim neck jus go buy a cheap chinee axe, theres plenny out there that play nice. save ur fattie and sell it to someone who likes em.

you'll find the warmoth standard thin is pretty much standard fender as they are fender licensed replacement necks or fender spares if you like.

I you love ur fender neck you will love the warmoth vintage modern [VM ] standard thin warmoth necks even better

they have 1 5/8" nut width or 1 11/16" nut width an it dont make a lot of diference

they are great necks i bought quite a few and use them on all my guitars to date

I am very fussy about the profile and nut width

check out the warmoth showcase

the early vintage fenders had the nut slot that followed the 7.5" radius

nuts are either flat bottom or round with a tag in the centre you can cut to give a radius. leave it on an you have a flat

12" raduis and compound aint much different as you can do good bends on a 12"

gibson uses a 12" radius - you can mill the frets on a 12 radius to a compound radius if you does it a certain way - see dan erlewines guitar set and repair book

the compound will let you have a slightly lower action

get a compund if ur buying a neck or fingerboard

12" is a lot easier to make if ur making the fingerboard

just because a neck has 22 frets or 21 frets dont mean they has a different scale

you got to measure from nut to #12 and double it - that will give the scale

older fenders had 21 frets but always 25 1/2" scale

you'll find warmoth necks are also 25 1/2" scale even though most have 22 frets. and by the way the neck is the same as a 21 fret and just the las little bit of the fingerboard that carries that #22 fret actually hangs out over the heel of the neck by around 3/8" so no neck pocket changes may be needed at all. an really man you ain gonna wear through a neck in a 100 years of playin....think on stradivari fiddles that bin played by master players 8 hours a day for 400 years

no sign of them necks [maple and ebony] wearin through but may have had the fingerboard replaced is all. but a fiddle neck has no frets to wear down

warmoth make short scale 24 3/4" that also has 22 fret

they make vintage neck with 21 fret but that comes with 7" radius an you will need a high action for string bends

the 22 fret jobs have compound radius [10" at the nut 16" at #22] and are great for bending and a good low action

they call em vintage modern or VM necks Vintage cos they has the old single action truss rod and modern cos they has 22 fret and the excellent compound radius.

You gots to measure ur neck from inside nut to centre of #12 double it an thats ur scales

You got a long way to go b4 you wear through a neck man LOL

You might go through a set of frets nut they can be replaced

BTW ur neck will look great after you wore through three or 4 sets of frets and you will pay very high dollar for a neck that has bin relicced to look as good...

some advice man just play on

worry about a new neck when you wore that maple and rosewood right through

Other options - since you're using two P-90s, I assume you aren't using the Tele bridge plate - you could try a tune-o-matic saddle.

My original plan was a strat-style hardtail. Schaller actually makes one that's adjustable all the way from 2" to 2 3/16" which I think I might go w/. I actually like the looks of it much better than the other bridges I was thinking of and I'm fond of top loaders anyway.

I used one of those schaller bridges with a pair SD p90's an it is pretty good actually

you can line up them pole pieces exact .. the guitar is a blueshawk / fenderish clone thing

btw get ready for noise coz them p90's make a racket even with full shielding and a bridge strap

guitar sounds killer an those p/ups really bite yer arse - great sound for blues