jammy

You got the nail on the head - makes the buffing easy!

Sounds fine to me, yeah.

When you're level sanding the dots you may want to keep a decent straight edge handy to make sure you're not taking any wood off where you shouldn't be. Take it slow and you should be fine!

Depending on the finish it could be a reasonably simple repair job for you local friendly tech

Isn't the point of projectguitar to have a go at repairs and builds yourself?

Not always. It's also about getting advice from builders and repairers.

It's hard to see from the photos, but provided the fretboard is still good and level it looks like just a cosmetic issue, yeah!

Depending on the finish it could be a reasonably simple repair job for you local friendly tech, if it's bothering you. If not, just play away

All looking great Mattia!

Do you have a picture of the top when you'd finished all your carving? In the picture posted it still looks a little weighty to me. What strings will you be using on this baby?

RE: end grafts. I was in the same boat as you when it comes to these, having done straight sided ones it takes so little time by hand I didn't see the point in jigging up! On my latest instrument I've done a curved sided one, and though it's still possible by hand of course I gave in and sorted a template for the router. Looks beautiful, and I won't be going back to the straight ones.

This may do what you want...

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting_suppl..._Fret_File.html

I went through and watched all the videos of this build not too long ago.

Some seriously tight work, resulting in a beautiful instrument! Love it.

Good question, well asked too

With it being one of their lower end models I'm not convinced this will be a HHG construction.

U2boy: As mentioned it could well be worth cleaning up the mating surfaces before the repair

Easy fix that. Just apply the glue and clamp 'er up (That is provided the back goes back in to place with light pressure, leaving no gaps)

Use titebond original.

This has recently been discussed over on the OLF

http://www.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtop...t=finish+inside

Methinks it's a leg rest as fitted to those little bodied steins

Allows sitting down playing!

Cheers

Just as a side note - what thickness plates do you guys use?

Anyone?

Personally, I tuck the edges of the bridge plate in to the legs of the X brace.

With regards to leaving gaps between things on the soundboard (though I don't agree that the bridge plate is a place to do it) it can be a good idea. Butt joints on a soundboard can sometimes be responsible for buzzes, hence on any intersection on my soundboards I either tuck into rebates, or chamfer the end of a brace to leave a small gap.

I'm looking for a diagram for a specific switching arrangement on a 2HB guitar I'm working on, and as no matter how many times I try I NEVER seem to get these things right, I thought I may as well just ask now..

Requested switching is...

1 - Series neck

2 - Parallel neck

3 - Outer humbucker coils

4 - Inner humbucker coils

5 - Series bridge

If anyone can help it'd be much appreciated! I've not ordered the switch yet so I can use any 5 way lever that'll get the job done.

To all you folks who really understand guitar wiring, how did you learn? I've taken an Electronics A level and this custom switching lark totally confuses me. Any recommended reading?

Radius dish and a few go-bars here too

What a concise, useful, well worded reply Rich!

That's great news! They're top pickups those...

Anyone else want to chime in?

GLue it back, then design a funky end graft.

How were you cutting that? IMO, this kind of trimming should be done with a handsaw (my vote is for a japanese with crosscut teeth), and minimise any planing (end grain is not fun, even with a nice, sharp Lie-Nielsen low angle block).

a big +1

Make sure you use air filters on your intake vents. You can use an oil filled electric raditor to heat the room.

Yeah that was the only thing I could think of really. I'm considering trying to draw air in past whatever heating system I have to take the chill off it if I'm spraying on a colder day

I wasn't sure wether to go for the finishing section or in here...ah well..here goes.

I'm starting to set up my spray booth now, and I'm looking for some advice from those who've done it before. My booth will be a 6x8 foot shed, and I'm going to need an extraction system, of course.

I know about the worry of sparks so will be using a fan with it's motor out of the airflow, but I'm still not sure how to work out exactly what flow rate to look for. I'm getting conflicting information from different websites - with some calculations I could get away with around 320CFM of airflow, and with others it's 6000!

I'm also somewhat stumped on how to heat the booth, as I'll be drawing air directly from outdoors it's going to be a tricky process!

Any help will be most appreciated.

Just read this news on another forum...

good stuff!

Could well be, can't see any bolt holes though..