jammy

I've recently set up my first 2 acoustics now they've settled in under string tension, and lowering the action on both has meant there's little saddle sticking out over the bridge. Now the string angle over the saddle must have an effect on tone, and lowering the bridge will remove some weight

So my questions are - how much saddle do you guys shoot for over the bridge? And what thickness do you stop at for the bridge?

Myka - I'm tempted to try the double top thing at some point, I want to get a lot more guitars under my belt first.

I also see where you're coming from about emulating a re-curve with a flat top instrument, and I've seen some makers which do this by strange brace scalloping patterns. A friend in college is currently experimenting with the idea of curved bracing - he's trying to emulate a speaker cone with the top. It looks insane! (I'll get a photo if possible)

I've recently invested in some super accurate scales (when I was in Amsterdam, actually. So I'll let you guess what their primary use is ) but I'm going to weigh the bracing for the top of this guitar, and do some stiffness testing. See what I come up with.

All this talk of bridge weight has me wondering too - another thing to think about!

Notch, for sure!

Well saying that the only braces I notch on the top are the X braces and the main transverse one above the soundhole.

I actually notch all the way through the linings and sides - it's easy, and the binding covers it all anyway.

Holes around the high point of the braces is something else I'd like to experiment with - I'm sure there's someone else on here that does it, but I can't remember who!

What's the width dimensions of those braces? I'm considering experimenting with narrower bracing, even if it's just some stress testing of spruce sections.

I like the centre braces on that top, giving me even more ideas!

Beautiful!

Do you have a link to where i can view all of your fanned fret instruments?

I've just been and shaved down the lower X a little - it's made quite a substantial to the tap tone; far more sustain.

All the other back designs on here are ace.

Mkya: do you not have a problem maintaining an even curve over the back with those 2 non-overlapping X's? I considered a design like that but was worried I'd end up with a pair of domes when the back relaxed between them.

Fine actually, it's still pretty stiff mind!

I'm considering loosening the lower X slightly - though I'm one of the tribe that thinks that back bracing has minimal effect on overall sound. (*insert sound of can of worms opening here*)

This is the back for a guitar I'm working on at the moment. Self designed bracing pattern, and I quite like it.

What have you guys used in the past? I'm bored of the ladder

De-tuning is difficult, especially on acoustics.

Heavier strings is the way to go, but you may well have some intonation problems. Your best bet if you're not up to taking on a full set up and fret level is taking the guitar to a tech. Tell him that you play a step down and you're looking to get the guitar playing right - I'm sure if they're good they should be able to help.

My solution to downtuning acoustics was making my baritone - tuned B to B with a 29" scale it's just perfect

FWIW, pin router is THE best way to cut F-holes into an already-carved top.

Too true, it's such a great tool.

Thicknessing necks/headstocks, cuttind bodies, F holes - loads of stuff!

Excellent work mate, honestly. It looks great!

I Especially Love the headstock Idea - cutting through to expose the wood underneath is inspired, and I fancy trying it to make my logo

WELL DONE!

I splashed out on this type of drill when I set up the workshop. You can adjust them to have a massive reach, and I'm glad I got it!

Now I've finished my system, I'm selling the excess stuff...

http://search.ebay.co.uk/_W0QQsassZukpileocrap

I've not had much chance to play with my pin router since I bought it, but since the workshops virtually finished I've been starting to experiment with all my new kit. I'm chuffed with this one! With the templates I've got I can make a telecaster body in little time at all - 1hr 30 mins maybe?

So here's my first experiment...

and here's the 1/4 tonne baby that made it: Click!

I've been away in London.

Have I missed out?

Call up David Dyke. He's a nice chap and will be able to provide prices for just about anything. I buy most of my wood from him, as he's the best in the UK.

PS: Nice to see a local lad! I'm from Rainford, near St Helens

A man after my own heart.

That is a wonderful WONDERFUL thing. Congrats!

This is the only clip I've got of one of my guitars...it's of the baritone (number2). Since the recording was made I've upped the string gauge on the guitar a little, and I think it sounds even better now...

http://www.solar.myby.co.uk/darkmatter/baritonedemo.mp3

Removing just the braces isn't difficult. A nice sharp chisel will get most of it off, then finish up with a scraper and some sandpaper. I would expect it's a 30 min job, then it's just a case of getting some more bracing wood

I'm sure I remember one of you chaps had had a go at it? Or perhaps I made it up?

Anyway, I love the design so I think I'm going to have a crack at one soon - the idea of registering the side at the butt end is excellent, as I'm picky about grain match there, and it looks like an elegant solution to the problem.

If one of you did have a go, what should I look out for? Anything specific?

A double width one would be great (2 sides at once) but I'm not sure that's an option realistically

There's some amazing guitars on that website!

Your use of ebony as a bracing material is very interesting, I take it the braces are smaller than they're spruce equivalents. How does it sound?

Looking great so far! Well done

With regards to the pickup though - save up and buy an EMG, it'll save re-routing for it when you do get it (as they don't just drop in normal pickup routes)

While in Brighton this weekend visiting a mate, I popped into a kite shop. Bingo! 36 gobars for less than £18

These will be my full length ones for doing bracing glue ups, I'll get some shorter ones soon for doing tops/backs.

My first thoughts would be freehand it out with the cutter you mentioned (staying back from the line, of course) then clean up with hand tools (files, a knife etc...)