Dave_B

LMI can get whatever size you'd like. Not sure of the price.

Ibanez had a triple coil in the mid-70's. That one?

I guess it should be clarified, are you looking for a paper template, or metal/plastic one to use with a saw?

LMII comes close with a 27.5" Would that do it?

SPFS9 fretting template, fingerstyle 25.7” and baritone 27.5” scales In Stock $35.95

Other wise you could buy the 34" bass scale and shift it over 4 frets. That would get you to 26.986" if my math is correct, but you'd want to call to make sure it has enough notches to do the job.

Just received the saw blade. Packed well and shipped fast. Thanks, Joe!

Agreed, that's a great solution. I'm at the point of making a jig to drill that same hole. The result is the same, but your way looks easier.

Uh, what happened? This was one of my favorite threads and now... pffft.

Nothing to do with donations,the image is just outdated

That's a recent development. I was looking at it just a week or two ago.

Update: Found another copy.

Thank you very much for the pointers, guys. You've answered a lot of questions.

I'll be sure to let you know how it comes out!

I just received my truss rod from LMII for my first build, so this information is timely for me as well. Thanks everyone!

No problem. Here's some more Iceman data I found on Photobucket.

Here you go you should be able to work everything out now

Thanks again, Muzz. It's slightly shorter than I thought, so that definitely helps. I took the liberty of Photoshopping your images together. Looks like 3 3/8" wide to me.

OK, this should be my last question for a while. Can you tell me the thickness of the body? If I use the center as a reference, I assume the tailpiece drops off about 1/4" and upper and lower bouts dip down 1/2". If that's the case, any of those measurements will do.

For what it's worth, that adds up to about a 43.3" degree radius.

I just glued up the lumber for the neck, so I'm not in a particular hurry for the info.

Thanks again, Muzz. You're changing lives.

I realize there are shipping fees to consider, but it IS available for $.04 on Amazon...

Could you laminate it to get the right width? It would be like what some people do to increase thickness, only in this case, it would be width. No idea if the seam would be visible, though.

I think in this case it wouldn't work. On the Iceman, the binding varies from 1/2" down to about 1/4" depending on the depth of the carve at a given point. I would think that a joint like that would be impossible to hide.

I'm trying to locate 1/2" binding in .02" and .06" thicknesses, in black and white for an Iceman Carved top build. LMII, StewMac, and a search on eBay didn't turn up anything.

There are places that sell sheets that could work, but I don't really want to own a lifetime supply.

Any other ideas or sources?

Thanks,

Dave

Man, thanks for that. So, unless there's some lens distortion coming into play, it looks like there's a radius across the body (pickup switch to the bottom horn, for example) along with the 'drop off' behind the tailpiece. Is that right?

Cool, yep, that's it exactly, the thickness of the binding gives you a good indication, it's 12 mm at the upper bout close to the neck and 6 mm thick at all the extremities. Rock and Roll

Beautiful. Thanks again, Muzz!

Man, thanks for that. So, unless there's some lens distortion coming into play, it looks like there's a radius across the body (pickup switch to the bottom horn, for example) along with the 'drop off' behind the tailpiece. Is that right?

A side shot will be greatly appreciated, thanks Muzz! Looking at the photo on the pointy stick thread it's tough to see it from that angle.

Is it just me, or is this one of the best pictorials ever? Very well documented, very clear, very good shots. Thank you!

I've scanned the Internet for Iceman/PS10 images looking for an example of a carved top. The specs for Stanley's PS10LTD that it has one but it must be real subtle. Does anyone have a photo of one?

Dave_B, I'm looking to get a scraper soon, how does the 0.6mm work for you?

I've had great luck with it. I've been practicing binding and it's been a good tool for the task.

My challenge has been re-establishing a decent burr. I've tried it with improper tools with no luck, so I'm going to buy a real burnisher and learn to do it correctly. I thought the hardened steel shaft from a discarded inkjet printer would be enough. Maybe it is, but it's not working for me.

FWIW, drums shells are commonly made out of birch plys. They're often considered to be bright and dry sounding compared to a warmer maple shell.

The hairdryer answered my question, "How do they pull it out without screwing it up?" VERY helpful. Thanks!

I think you just have the syntax messed up on your images. Click on the "Insert image" icon, then add *one* image. Repeat as needed. Or just put the 'img' tags around your links like this:

[img=http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m618/electricwoodworks/Firebird/IMAG0333.jpg]

[img=http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m618/electricwoodworks/Firebird/IMAG0334.jpg]

[img=http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m618/electricwoodworks/Firebird/IMAG0334.jpg]

Edit: Sorry, just noticed guitarnut already responded.

For binding, you probably don't need the swan neck (though it is really handy for other guitar-related things). I would probably just go with a medium thickness straight scraper for bindings, especially if this is your first time using one. But that's just me.

I'm probably over-thinking it, which is why I'm six months into my first project and I'm still doing mockups. I ordered the .6mm. Thanks for getting me off the fence, RT.