Dave_B

Hello all,

I'm gearing up to learn how to do binding so I'm buying some scrapers as part of my LMII purchase. I've never used one and I'm trying to avoid my tendency to over-buy on things.

* .4mm scraper

* .6mm scraper

* .8mm scraper

* 1mm scraper

* Scraper set - all the above

* Swan neck scraper

Any thoughts on what to purchase? Do I need all of them?

Very nice! Just curious, did you trace it from a photo? The back looks a little more scooped out than an original. Nothing big, in fact I could be wrong.

That is really cool!

.2in side up.

Excellent, thanks.

Hi folks,

I'm planning on using a pair of StewMac .2in x .25in Carbon Fiber rods near the outsides of a bass neck. Does carbon fiber have an orientation? In other words, should I be installing it with a particular side facing up?

I've always understood the rough cut to be fairly normal. At least it makes me feel better about my cuts.

I like Guitar Electronics for Musicians. Regarding amps, the London Power books are supposed to be good at explaining things. No personal experience though, and they're pretty spendy.

i once read somewhere where a guy said gibson should break all there necks at the factory because once they have been reglued they are less likely to break agian.

That would be Ed Roman.

mm true.. does have a pitch shift thing in there....perhaps some kind of bitcrush distortion or something?

I agree, the gating sounds like a bit crusher.

The closest thing I have to an art house in realistic driving range is Michael's & Hobby Lobby.

Even in St. Louis? Kansas City has at least a couple of good ones, so I always assume STL has more.

Thanks for the info, guys. The other option I should have asked about is using a router with a planing jig. I have a workbench, so I could clamp the piece down and do it that way.

I don't like to ask these types of hand-holding questions, but I'm in a position to buy one tool right now and I don't want to screw it up. Thing is, I also don't want to compromise a build by using an inappropriate tool for the job. Right now I have a passable table saw and drill press. The band saw is hopefully going to be purchased before the end of the year. Once I get over this jointing paranoia, I should be ok.

I spent yesterday reading jointer manuals. They all mention that stock must be at least 1/2" thick.

So, how do you prep the pieces that are thinner than that?

Thanks,

Dave

I've can confirm that I've drilled 1/2" holes for the common "Cliff" stomp switches (the blue ones). The note on my workbench says 12mm, or slightly less than .5" but with a washer it works out fine. As Quarter said, the step bits are a great way to go. Harbor Freight sells them cheap. There's no reason to invest in a pricier one.

Harbor Freight tools also sells a 1-ton arbor press for under $50.

FWIW, I've seen that one in the HB store for $32US on sale.

Have you tried the pickup making forum? You might have better luck there.

As mentioned this isn’t a thread about glue, but as it has become a really interesting discussion about gluing techniques I cannot help continuing off topic…

Well, I've tried to change the original topic for those trying to find it six months from now. Personally, I appreciate and will benefit from the discussion.

I have to say, I don't think I would purposely go against instructions that eventually lead back to the engineers and/or scientists who developed the product. But maybe I'm giving the glue makers too much credit?

Have you covered what paint you used? Beautiful work.

So, for those who remove the tape, it sounds like you're only applying glue to the neck, not the fretboard. Is that correct?

And yes, I was talking about using two truss rods, not dual-action, thanks.

I'm just in the reading stages and have yet to saw/glue anything valuable.

Q1: When you tape over a truss rod to avoid fretboard glue, do you need to route/scrap/sand to compensate for the thickness of the tape? I've not heard it discussed, so I'm guessing, "No".

Q2: Can someone briefly explain how to adjust a neck with dual truss rods? I'm planning out a 12-string bass, and I'm not sure I can avoid them.

Thanks,

Dave

Edit: Modified topic title for clarity.

Looking at the schaller bridge, it only has 8 holes on the back for the string ball ends. Maybe you could drill the baseplate and have the extra 4 strings going through the body to rear ferrules on the body?

Hey Sam.

What's typically done is to run both octave strings through one hole. This page has some examples of both 8 and 12-hole tailpieces.

I'm drawing pictures in Photoshop to work some of this out in my head.

This image is based on some info from 12stringbass.net and a lo-rez photo of a Hamer B12L. The spacing looks a little off, but I've been told the fundamentals are typically .5" apart and the octaves then vary from string to string. The courses still look too close to me, so I probably screwed up somewhere. I'm a lefty who plays lefty, by the way.

what bridge are you planning to use for the 12 string?

The Schaller 471.

Personally, I would like to have the extra 4-5mm width at the nut if it meant I could distinguish each group of strings easily. I haven't played many 12 string basses, but I remember that Dean Rhapsody feeling surprisingly comfortable.

That's a good point. Since this will be my first build, I'm considering a neck-through mock-up with lower-grade lumber. It would have to be low tension though, so I'm not sure it would be worth the trouble. I'll probably make a headstock/scarf at least, just to get a feel for the string angles and tuner placement.

You may need to get your string gauges all marked down and do some scale drawings. Maybe do them @1:2 so you can clearly so whats going on and how things will sit in proportion to each other.

That will help too, thanks. I'm good with Photoshop, and I've been doing some layouts there. That sounds like the next logical step.

I think that may end up too tight for 12 strings. I know the Dean Rhapsody 12 string uses a wider nut than that.

might be worth checking the specs on that one for a comparison?

http://www.deanguitars.com/rhapsody_12.htm

Wow, you're right.

Rhapsody = 34" Scale & 2-1/8" Nut

I was looking at the TP12

TP12 = 32" Scale & 48mm Nut

Hello all. Does anyone have experience with laying one of these out? Specifically, I'm planning a 4-string with 2 sets of octave strings.

I know some things:

The octave pairs are spaced to avoid hitting the fundamental strings. In other words, there's a gap between the octave strings and the fundamental.

A 1.9" (48mm) nut is a good place to start.

The Schaller 471 bridge uses 3/4" (19mm) spacing.

For now, I'm trying to figure out where to cut the nut on this thing.

First post, by the way. Greetings.