BNichols

plus not only can you be picky about what wood, you might even be able to buy one blank and just bookmatch it. that look could be nice depending on the wood

yeah i wasn't sure if on meant normal humbucker operation or coil split

yes, a coil splitter just turns on one of the two single coil pickups inside the humbucker.

::edit::

don't mind me. i cant seem to respond fast enough. keep getting beat lol

Anyone who gets GuitarOne magazine may have seen this as a how-to recently. they said it was to retain tonal qualities when the volume changed. Basically it is a filter that lets only high-frequency bypass the volume.

are the pickup humbuckers? the switch could be a coil split that turns it into a single coil

what kind of guitar and what pickups are in it?

very nice, im making one like that in my woods class, but im not sure where to put the input. any suggestions?

put it close to your control cavity. I would opt for the same side shown in the pictures from the link. that way it's close to the strap and you can hang it over the strap when you play or run it to a wireless transmitter if you have one

operational amplifiers are little IC (integrated circuit) chips that are usually sold as the LM741 (the kind in your schematic). Radio shack sells parts online, but you might be better off at an electronic supply store that would have those capacitor values. also, you have a lot of op-amps, so you may want to look into getting LM324's which are quad op-amps. get three and you have 12 op-amps right there. here is a link to the datasheet, hopefully the ratings will be good enough for your application:

LM324 Op-Amp

::edit::

the slider switches you mentioned are potentiometers or pots for short. google electronic supply and look around at different places. many stores sell all the parts you need: resistors, capacitors, pots, op-amps, etc.

i agree about the neck. it would look really good on a darker-wooded body that compliments the shape of the headstock

do you know if you were touching the strings or bridge when you touched the jack/cable? i have also had this problem and am trying to fix it. I know that the reason for mine is because I haven't gotten around to sending a ground wire to the bridge. When I touch any metal that is a part of the electronics (pots, jack, etc.) and the bridge or strings the hum goes away. if this is the case with your guitar you may need to check the ground connections inside

while on the topic of bandsaws, how much could you expect to spend on a decent one? its hard to tell looking online which are crap and which would be the high-end models

do you already have a switch bought? if not you need a SPSTNCMO switch. its a type that means single pole, single throw, normal on, momentary off switch. it would go before the jack and just be on normally, then when you push it, it disconnects, then it springs back when you let go

looks good so far. i love that fingerboard. looking forward to seeing it progress

oh ok. i wasnt sure how the white got in there. otherwise i would test on a few scraps of wood. maybe someone with more experience would know whats best to use. i can also point you to a thread started about the can on the right.

Rattlecan Minwax Poly

sure. the values are in a good range. otherwise i couldn't say what's wrong. I guess it could be the pots sent were not actually linear. the only way i can think to check would be to use the meter and measure across lugs 1 and 2 and graph rotation vs resistance in excel or something. good luck with it. wiring always seems to be the hardest thing to troubleshoot. cant ever see whats going on

Taper Graph

is the zinsser bullseye a white primer?

thats odd that it would do that. I had that same effect when I put .047 caps in with 500K but that was because the cutoff freq. was then different, not because of the pot taper. I think the only logical thing that would mess it up is the resistance of the pickups. if you have a digital multimeter, it can measure resistance across the + and - ends of the pup. if the resistance is high enough, it could change the equivalent resistance that effects the .022 cap. the problem could also be the wiring touching in places it shouldn't. other than that, 500K and .022 usually give you the right cutoff frequency and the taper of the pot should have a noticable difference if its linear.

good luck,

brendan

Pots are basically resistors that change resistance when you turn the knob. The lugs are usually wired the second way, with hot into #1, out from #2 and ground to #3. when wired like this, the pot creates what electronic-studied people call a voltage divider.

when you send a signal through a resistor, the voltage drops by a certain amount. when the signal is turned into audio it means the volume drops. your pot basically looks like this picture:

the jagged lines are resistors, which change as the pot is turned. the bigger the resistor on top the lower the volume.

it could very well be the capacitor/pot values. do you know what they are?

heres a link to a basic diagram of a push-pull pot:

Stewmac - scroll down to push-pull

i think this might work. basically the normal operation is when the switch is up and when its down the signal will be connected directly to the output (bypass). hopefully this isnt too confusing

I'm not sure what you mean, suicide...

You don't have to go to your vol knob directly from your pickups.

true, but the output from the pickups does hit the volume put first, either from the pickup itself or from a switch etc..... at least from what ive seen. i should have worded my reply differently

I wired mine thru the tones then thru switch then to volume. idk i guess anyway works

Yeah nice job on the whole thing. I totally know what screwing up the FB is like. I cut off the first fret by accident thinking it was actually the nut... good thing I figured it out before I did the neck joint. but I could've easily ended up with a short-scale, 23 fret guitar. anyway nice work, esp. on the finish

All I know about Abalam is that it works when you need a big inlay. The quality would be good for fingerboards but abalam tends to have bubbles between the layers and the layers can be sanded through on rounded surfaces. otherwise it would work fine.

edit:someone posted before me. i agree

Nice work chirs!

Im not a big fan of the bottom horn but it is your design and i really like the top one =)

I agree with the horns. Nice job on the top one and the whole thing in general.

Hi. I recently completed my first guitar and I would like it to be considered in the Guitar of the Month Contest.

The guitar was made entirely from scratch and it is completely custom. For a nickname, I guess I'll call it "Mean Green"

::EDIT::

Some people have requested to see pictures of the building process. You can follow my link if you want to see them:

http://users.wpi.edu/~nicholsb/sisp.htm

Or check out my mentor's site to see what kind of luthier I learned so much from:

http://www.sanzoneguitarandmandolin.com/Sa...in/Welcome.html

::::

Specs:

Body- Figured Mahogany, Quilted maple top, flamed maple binding with blk/wht/blk purfling

Neck- Figured Mahogany, Set-In

Fretboard- Brazilian rosewood, 24 frets, custom inlays, flamed maple binding with blk/wht/blk purfling

Headstock- Flamed maple veneer, flamed maple binding and blk/wht/blk purfling

Electronics- Seymour Duncan JB and '59 pickups, 5-way megaswitch, 2 tones, 1 volume