DC Ross

Small, like coffehouse 5 people-small or club 100 people-small? Waaaay overkill for coffeehouse, both are suitable for clubs (but might want to consider a Hot Plate for the XXX depending on how much you like to push the power section).

Please tell me you jointed those pieces before gluing...

You should call #1 the "S**t Kicker"... Looks like cowboy boots kicking

I like it.

B3 Petty Blue to match my old 'Cuda

IMO, it'd be cool if you did an all-over leaf, then rubbed through to the black in the normal wear spots (forearm carve, edges, etc...)

I know you know, but there are many of us that don't understand the attitude of "I refuse to buy decent tools," especially when it comes to things like bandsaws. I use my bandsaws (yes, plural) more than any other tool by far. IMO, the old adage that "it's a poor carpenter that blames his tools" is BS. If you have a crappy tool that won't stay in tune (if it even gets there in the first place), of course quality will suffer. Not to mention the time and frustration it will cause you. To me, that has a cost too. My advice is to listen to the advice of those that are more experienced. There's a reason why you get comments like Spokes: we've been through it all before, and we're trying to pass our lessons learned on to you to save you money, time, and frustration. But there are of course those that plug their ears and dig in their heels who just need to learn things for themselves.

With that said, a good quality blade on that saw sure can't hurt. Also, check out the "Mastering Your Bandsaw" DVD from Fine Woodworking/Taunton. It shows you some good techniques for tuning and sawing.

The dumpster? (couldn't resist )

Just replace them with shorter screws. Dunno what the big deal is...

I'm sure you know this, but your 2nd string tuner will be turning backwards in this configuration, and from my understanding, they aren't very stable going backwards.

I vote for left. The waist on the right is too severe, and the upper bouts seem too "flat," whereas the left is a nicer, rounder, more flowing shape

Secondly printers are never 1:1 so there is always some reduction or enlargement taking place.

Now where the hell did you hear that!?

Common knowledge. I know there are a few lucky people out there, but every printer I've owned has done this.

I dont think the search function is that bad, it works well for me all the time, so I dont know why everyone says its not so great....you just gotta know how to use it

The main problem is that you can't search for words that have less than 4 letters, like "nut" or "oil."

I use the same tools, they just wear out a bit faster.

Just a couple of thoughts...

Neck Angle Determination (Not just a picture/diagram) One that actually walks through step by step using a variety of bridges

How to make the neck shims, and how to figure out the sizes they need to be to get the correct angle

Not sure why using a variety of bridges would be useful. If you can do one, you can do them all. It's all exactly the same process, and between Ormsby's tutorial and Hiscock's book, it's covered pretty completely.

What do you mean by "neck shims?" Like, tapered pieces to stick in the neck pocket? This would be unnecessary if you route the pocket (or angle the neck tenon) correctly.

A How to wire a guitar from scratch in different styles IE: LP, PRS Rotary, Strat ETC

Again, if you can wire one guitar, you can wire them all if you have a decent diagram, which are available here. << excellent resource. bookmark it.

+1 to ihockey2's suggestions.

Jazz basses have very narrow, thin necks, so are very easy to bend if you grab the headstock and wang it around. This is normal.

Don't screw with the truss rod until you understand what it does.

Get this. Read it. Read it again.

We have yet another win for the super-high-tech fretting aide I call "block of wood with a slot cut in it to hold the fret-press insert". The name's a bit clunky, but it's pretty descriptive.

Oh, you mean the "BOWWASCIITHTFPI"?

Pallets are made from whatever wood is plentiful. I've seen them made from oak, maple, and even purpleheart.

BassNW is asking $3641 for a brand-new one. This one is 99.9% new for $2900 (+ shipping in CONUS)

Info here:

http://rossguitars.com/4sale/dingwall/

Can you fix the body at the proper angle and then cut the pocket square?

That was the only solution (other than a 4+ axis machine) I could think of, but I imagine it could introduce errors if not placed/angled absolutely precisely, since it would be cutting for the bridge separately. I also think that it could be really fiddly, but having limited CNC experience, I really don't know.

So, say you wanted to cut an angled neck pocket with your 3-axis CNC. Is it possible to leave a smooth, flat bottom in the pocket? The way I see it, the bit would leave channels, since it's not perpendicular to the bottom of the pocket. Am I over thinking this?

No sense in changing your plan. To reiterate what you said, to fix a sloppy neck route just get some scrap body wood, about 1/8" thick and just slightly wider and longer than the route (one for each side) and glue them in, then reroute the pocket.

*It will be virtually invisible, since there will only be a sliver left of the plug/shim after rerouting.* I admit that I'd done this more than once before upgrading my neck pocket routing technique & jig. I have some pics if you'd like to see.

IMO, use plywood for all it matters. Stick some EMGs in it and RAWK!

Has anyone built a machine from the book "Build Your Own CNC" and the site www.buildyourcnc.com?

the skunk stripe thing is odd, but rather common - just a manufacturing process. i assume they would do it so they can have maple and rosewood fretboard necks ready to go and install the truss rod in exactly the same way

Exactly, otherwise they'd have to come up with a separate process which adds costs like training and new jigs/templates.

That's a good one. I have it on loan from the library right now.

Another one that I've found really helpful so far is Jeff Jewitt's "Tauntons Complete Illustrated Guide To Finishing".