DC Ross

Thanks for the replys, guys! I think I'll start testing by bleaching it as much as possible, which is something I've never done -- any recommended products? If that doesn't seem to do enough, I've got some waterbased ColorTone that I'll try thinning down. Trying to think of the best order -- dye black, sandback, then stain w/ pigment?

Yeah, definitely bleach and dye black/sandback, but white dye? I've not heard of this...

Hey all, Trying to figure out how to get this silvery colour on figured maple. I'm assuming it's bleached, but this looks like it went a bit further than just bleaching. Thanks, -D

Sorry I can't help with your MeshCAM issues, but I'd be surprised if there's no "Groove" or "Slot" operation that allows you to choose a 3D path for it to follow... I've modified my approach somewhat since that post from Dec. 2014. I now use a 2-flute .027" diameter (.025" for non-ebony) carbide bit, at 20,000 rpm, going 30IPM, and cutting .01" deep passes, and it poses no problems at all.

Ha, yeah, the PreciseBits are the cheap ones. Well, cheaper than the $80 1/2" spiral bits that I use for most ops that I need to replace every 6 months I haven't broken a slotting bit in quite a while, using those numbers I quoted above. What are your feed, speed, and depth of cut?

Ah, of course... Thanks for the link!

Thanks again, The thing is, everything works the way it was wired -- and any hum there is, isn't consistent. Usually it's dead-quiet. Wiring the push/push to the quickswitch wasn't really feasible, since a) I haven't seen any dual concentric push/push pots anywhere, (and it would be moot anyway since he wanted the single master vol.) and b ) I have no idea how I'd wire the rest of the circuit. I wrote to their support, but haven't found a solution through them.

Thanks for the reply, Curtis The bridge is grounded, I omitted it for the sake of brevity The cap is from them, with an update to the documentation The jack is definitely wired correctly (good to check though) Everything does function correctly, but occasionally there is the weird hum. It's especially noticeable if I grab the yellow wire in the diagram (not even the contacts, just grabbing the sheathing will do it).

Hey all, I've wired up an acoustiphonic system with a push/push to select between the humbucker and the piezo, but getting some crazy hum/buzz. Attached is the diagram. Any suggestions / input / advice? Thanks

Looking for: One piece Black Limba body blank, at least 19.5 x 14 x 1.75 One piece Rosewood neck blank, at least 32 x 3.5 x 1.75 It seems one piece limba bodies have all but dried up lately. Checked Gilmer, Cook, Gallery, even eBay and Warmoth... Thanks!

My opinions: Resawing that size of a piece would be a nightmare (assuming you have access to a HUGE bandsaw). Handsawing that size piece would be a nightmare (there's no way that HUGE of a saw going over that long of a course wouldn't bow tremendously). Safe-T-Planing isn't a bad option, with a HUGE drill press If you have access to a CNC machine big enough, facing it wouldn't be a problem. So, seeing that you already have a router sled, I'd go that route. Let us know what your setup is, w/ pics if you have any, and what went wrong last time.

If you apply a finish to the board (like you should for maple), then why not? Get some of that Fiebing's or Trans-Tint dye and go to town. It's no different than dyeing a maple top.

As with everything, ymmv. This is just my experience, and what I've found to work for me. I'm curious how you're doing scarf joints on the cnc. Are you actually cutting the scarf on the machine, or is the scarfed headstock glued up beforehand?

I've been using the stainless wire from Allied lately, so .019" or .021" (the barbs measure .031" and .037" respectively). If you're trying to shove a .021" tang with a .037" barb into a .022" slot in ebony, you're gonna have a bad time Some advice I wish I were given when starting out w/ the CNC: Tight tolerances are good, but a "perfect fit" needs a bit of room.

I used to use the StewMac thin kerf table saw blade, which was advertised as .023" (.58mm). That worked fine, which is why I started with the .023" endmill. They definitely didn't give similarly wide slots. The wobble of the blade and the tighter tolerances of the endmill combined to make much smaller slots on the CNC. I've taken .030" passes with a .023" endmill in ebony (remember, this is a ramping op, so that max depth of cut (DOC) is only at the very end of the path), but that's as far as I'm willing to push it. It's really not as bad as it sounds, it comes out to 0.00075" per tooth (normally I shoot for .001"/tooth on bigger bits). I broke two bits while I was figuring out what speed/feed rates worked best. They're cheap, so I wasn't too upset; besides, education is worth the price