DC Ross

Go to GC or Radio Shack and pick up some deoxidizing spray for electronic connections

I think he was just bragging

Are there an unnecessary amount of winds on the tuner post?

Wouldn't tuning to drop C with 11s on a 24-3/4" scale be like playing wet noodles?

What wood are you using for a neck? Quartersawn or flatsawn?

Check kite supply places for the CF rods.

Yup, his shop is about a mile away from me.

I'd go with the Kahler string lock like ihocky suggested. I have one on my Charvel Model 4, and it's much nicer than the Floyd locking nut.

A 3 piece neck with the grain running all in the same dimension with no voids is very different than a sheet of crappy ply from Home Depot.

#1 w/ pins

For the same price as Poplar, you can pick up some Alder, a common wood for guitar bodys. Look for a hardwood (not flooring) supplier in your area. Usually "lumber yards" just sell construction materials.

dbl post...

Thanks Hector, but it's definitely not normal plastic like what StewMac would sell as cavity cover material. My Custom 24's covers are extremely rigid and lightweight and more of a dark charcoal colour.

Maybe this is what you were thinking about?

http://www.infinitytools.com/products.asp?dept=1339

I'm comtemplating investing in a laser cutter/engraver eventually, and I'm looking for some info that isn't skewed by marketing speak.

The two companies I see most often are Epilog and Universal; are there others that I should be looking at?

What wattage do you guys w/ lasers run? I'm planning on cutting and engraving up to 1/2" polycarbonate, as well as abalam, wood (of course), and marking aluminum and steel.

What type of maintenance items are there on lasers (i.e. how often does the tube need to be replaced, and at what cost?)

Are there any specific features that I should be looking for?

Are brushless servo motors worth the extra expense?

Any other additional info?

Thanks!

Anyone know what PRS uses for the cavity covers? It's definitely not a normal plastic, maybe graphite-impregnated something or other?

I started with a flat soled Stanley, and they're good for the price. I recently moved up to a Veritas, and the difference is night and day.

I'm not sure of the specific specs of the guitar in question, but you can make the ratio of the thickness of body wood to top wood anything you like. Just figure out how extreme your carve is going to be and use that as a minimum thickness for the top.

How about a contour gauge?

are 10" enough to copy 1st fret and 12th fret at contour gauge?

Probably. Unless you're going to be building an 18 string "aircraft carrier" bass

How about a contour gauge?

Too bad no one has a brand name for that slug tape.

I use Correy's brand and it works just fine. I picked it up at the local Ace Hardware in the gardening section.

Vegas sounds like a blast -- keep us posted.

What router bit do you guys use for routing your cavity cover routes? eg. a 2mm deep route using a 12mm template.

I use a straight bit with a template guide. Here's a cheap guide set that works well.

I've also heard that some people use angle grinders with heavy grit sandpaper for the belly carve. I've never done it myself, but it may be worth a try.

36 grit flap sander on the 4-1/2" angle grinder makes quick work of the forearm and belly carves Just make sure you wear eye protection and a dust mask (at the very least -- I wear a respirator).

There's a good article in the new Fine Woodworking mag about tuning and using handplanes - some good tips and techniques.

All excellent points, I think I'll forego the planer and save the cash, space and the resulting aggravation

BTW, my other goodies arrived from Lee Valley that I ordered at the Seattle woodworking show:

Veritas big-ass Spokeshave:

and Low Angle jack plane:

I have the G0457 -- it's geared more towards resawing than the G0555.