DC Ross

I would never think of wasting the money on a 3/4" blade on a 14" saw. Just from my readings, it seems extremely difficult to get enough tension, and because the wheels are small, you stress the blade a lot. No sense is buying an expensive blade, just to break it prematurely.

I have a 3/4" on mine, and it's performed flawlessly.

Ha, I guess I didn't explain that well

I currently have a Shopsmith Mark V with the 12" planer attachment. It's not great, it's a pain in the arse to move and set up, but it more or less does the job. I was planning on getting a 15" Grizzly with a Byrd Shelix cutterhead -- light years ahead of the SS, but also a $1500 investment. Before I got the 16-32, I was planning on giving the body blanks a light pass through the planer after glue up to give them a perfectly level surface. Now that I have the 16-32, I've been using that for the same purpose. It seems that I won't be needing a bigger planer. Or possibly any planer if I follow the process I outlined above.

I agree, adjusting the drum was a bit fiddly, but it only took about 15 minutes of back & forth to get it to within a couple thousanths on each end. I suppose that's precise enough

Thanks, guys, I definitely understand the role the planer plays. I'm more wondering if an upgrade to a 15" is worth it. I always buy my lumber in the rough -- the savings is worth the minimal hassle of surfacing it myself.

Thanks, Spoke. That's where I'm at now - I've been trying to gradually increase the tension on the right (loose) side of the belt.

It's been great though, I can definitely see it being one of the most used tools in the shop.

Again, nice job, but still looks somewhat familiar

I try to build light without being obnoxiously light. My fanned-fret baritones weigh in at just under 6 lbs. and it sustains for days (super-thin carved Alder body, super-thin Maple neck). Practically everyone I've spoken with prefers lighter guitars.

I just built a new adjustable scarf jig for my bandsaw to replace the fixed one that was too limiting. Super easy to do: just get a good, flat base (I used ply), another piece of ply for the fence, some leftover t-track from another jig, a couple knobs, a hardwood runner for the bandsaw's miter gauge slot, and a couple knobs.

Hey all,

I'm going to be upgrading my shop soon, and I'm debating whether or not to get a new planer. I have a 12" that's okay, not great. Since I just bought a Jet 16-32 that I wasn't planning on getting just yet, now I'm not so sure I need a planer (I was planning on a 15"). I could definitely stand to save the money and the space.

In lieu of using a planer, here's my thought to surface and square rough stock: face & edge joint the body halves, resaw to approximate thickness, run that new face on the jointer, glue the halves, then run the whole mess through the sander.

Does anyone see an absolute need that I'm not thinking of for a planer?

Thanks!

Nice job. Looks somewhat familiar

Hey all,

I picked up the Jet 16-32 at the Seattle woodworking show last weekend. It's been on my list forever and I was finally able to get a decent deal on it

So far this week I've run 6 bodies, 6 fretboards, 2 neck blanks, 4 quilted maple tops and multitudes of other miscellaneous bits through it. I'm really digging it! The belt changes are a snap, which is something I had concerns about -- for some reason, Wood magazine complained that it was difficult.

One issue that I'm having right off the bat is the conveyor belt tracking. When looking at it from the infeed side, the belt tracks to the left, so I tightened the left side & loosened the right side (as per the instructions). In order to get it to track correctly, now the left side is very taut and the right side is completely slack - so much so that the belt is buckling and if I'm sanding something thin, like 1/8" or less, the conveyor gets sanded as well.

Any advice?

Thanks!

Is it just me, or does the 2nd technique in that link seem a bit hackey?

I agree w/ Wez. See what happens when it's strung up.

I have the G0457 with the resaw fence & I love it. At first I was skeptical because there's no way to square the fence to the table, but there's no need to adjust it - it's dead on.

Good score! The extra blue & black bits look like acrylic pen blanks.

This just came in (as you see it - no case, pickguard off, about an inch of dust on everything):

There's a Sustainiac as well as a Fishman / LR Baggs piezo system, 6 mini switches, a push-pull and two batteries. I'm really hoping everything works as it should -- I really don't want to start digging around in that

I think the cavity for the pc board was routed with a spoon.

Wish me luck!

SRV's tech used Mitch's suggestion of the wire insulation.

I don't know about the P, but the J's headstock thickness is 19/32" (finished)

That is awesome!!!

Wes, have you heard the Blackouts? I haven't, but I was considering getting a set. At about $30 less than the EMG's they are not a bad buy if the description is true.

Best fretwire bender ever!

I have the 2nd gen Blackouts Metal (1 hum, 1 single) in my fanned fret baritone. The output is completely over the top. There's a jumper on the bottom that can reduce the output, but I haven't removed it yet

BTW, nice job on those semi-hemi frets

Hey Daniel,

My fanned fret baritone (tuned B to B ) with the same scale lengths, I've found a .013 - .056 works well. As a side note, the disparity in scale lengths is too extreme for most tastes, so I'm going to 25.75-27.75".

Hope this helps!

Sweet, thanks! I was literally a day late jumping on that Midway USA patternmaker's vise that was going for $35, which they then discontinued.

Okay, not specifically PG related, but I know you guys are more knowledgable than I am about this.

I have a Reverend Goblin, and it just started blowing fuses. When I turn it on, one of the two power tubes flashes brightly, and then the fuse blows. Am I going to need a new set of tubes? If so, do I need to find tubes with similar values to what is currently in the amp?

Thanks!

...There is no difference between a volume and a tone pot.

That's not necessarily true. While they can be interchanged, there are two different tapers: audio and linear.

Grizzly does a good job of describing the difference:

"The audio type pot reaches almost 75% capacity with half a turn while the linear type is strictly incremental. Due to the way the curves work, the linear type is normally used for Volume and the audio type for the Tone, although some prefer audio type for both Tone and Volume."

Yellowjackets are another option

Are you talking about something like the Graph Tech Hexpander?

Very nice, what are you using for the black accent?