DC Ross

Grounded to wood? I don't think so It's not as if the body grounds connected there, and the lug wired to the pot -- that would've made sense (which is what I did with it). There was one sole wire from the lug to the pot. The bridge & jack grounds were wired separately to the pot.

Check out Fender's wiring diagram here

I was working on a Double Fat Strat yesterday which has a solder lug (ground post) screwed into the body which is grounded to the vol pot body. Normally, this wouldn't look strange, but the cavity isn't shielded from the factory. Why would they go through the cost & trouble?

They're good for rough building construction and that's about it.

HF is good for a lot of things, power tools not being one of them. The Porter-Cable 690 is a good, relatively inexpensive router.

Nice looking stuff, and the environmentally sustainable thing can be a big selling point. Bamboo is another interesting material that's gotten a lot of attention lately, too.

There's a company out there that does a compound 'twisted' neck that rotates along the same shape your hand does when it moves up the board. Not sure if they're combined it with fanned frets as well.

That's the http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tLi8pOa6zYk. Great concept, but I can't imagine what a pain it is to set up

Ah, guess I forgot to mention... routing the neck pocket

My last jig was destroyed when the depth locking mechanism decided to crap out on my plunge router, so I decided to go all out and build this one based on David Myka's:

The rear rail support is vertically adjustable, so it's capable of routing angles from 0° to 3.5°.

The rails are from an old server rack that I was using for shelving. I got the self-adhesive rules and knobs in a kit from Rockler, and the T-slots and holddowns from Harbor Freight. The base is made from 2 layers of 1/2" MDF, the rear rail support is Maple, and the front rail supports are Sapele, all pulled from the cutoff bin.

All said and done, it cost me about $30 above what I had on hand, and took about 4 hours to complete. Not bad for an afternoon

I'm going to be building a run of 4 guitars starting next week, so we'll see how it performs.

Thanks for looking!

The one in the first link has an abrasive conveyor belt, not rubber, so there's no way it'll compress. That one's on my ever-growing list.

I'm always twiddling my knobs. Volume, Tone, pup selector switch, push/pull for coil tapping. Most players don't realize the variety of sounds they have at their fingertips just by flipping a switch or turning a knob or picking in a different position. You can go from a smooth mellow warm overdrive to screaming metal and back again with the flick of your wrist - no channel switching or other gizmos necessary.

FYI: For soundchecks, run full-open so you don't surprise the sound guy - that includes vox as well!

I'm not sure if these will work or not, but I have a coupon for the 11" pliers from HF that's good until 3/2:

I use 2-way rods... Started with Stew-Mac's Hot Rod and now use Allied's (they're lower profile).

Route a simple flat-bottom channel, pop it in, and done. (Well, that's simplifying it, but it's almost that easy.)

+1 Actually I just got 6 of the Allied rods, but haven't tried them yet.

IIRC, ESP uses soft maple for their bodies. I have an ESP bari w/ an all-maple body & neck. The tone is clear & well-defined, but not harsh.

I am 37 years old and I have had long hair(almost to my ass in high school) since I was 17...

Now it is right at the bottom of my shoulder blades...It won't grow as long as it used to...keeps breaking off...

thin on top though..

Same here, but I'm 35.

Like I'd said, the G0457 has cast iron wheels

Do you have any more pics you could show us?

So you folks that are big proponents of multi-scale/fanned frets - how are you setting things up? How much of a difference between scale lengths are you using? Where are you placing you perpendicular fret? I'm trying to avoid having to print out dozens of mockups of the fretboard to get a feel for things. Are fanned fret guitars really only suited to lead work? While I've been playing a lot more stuff that I guess would fit under that classification, I get there via chords most of the time.

Also - it just occurred to me - do these fanned fret instruments throw the whole idea of using a capo out the window? That may be a deal breaker for me.

My prototype bari is 25.5" - 28", but IMO, that is too much of a difference in scale lengths. Palm muting over multiple strings is less than ideal, as are barre chords in the lower positions. I'll be going to 26" - 27.75" to straighten things out slightly. I set the perpendicular fret @ the 7th so neither the nut nor bridge are angled too radically.

Capo on an electric?!?!? Don't get me started....

Hey, I've used a capo on my fanned-fret 5 string bass

I had to vote for the Swede. That 5 ply binding defines the shape well & makes it stand out. The pup covers are a nice touch. My only complaint is the cavity cover -- since you can't see the top (obviously) it doesn't tie in with anything. Very well-executed though

I have the G0457 and really like it. Cast iron wheels and the 6" fence are nice. Right now Grizzly's offering free shipping on it, too!

Strange, I use those HF nippers and they work great; even on stainless. My only complaint is the size of the head.

Unfortunately, the Shopsmith jointer is the only one I have. It's only 4", so it's unsuitable for flattening body halves. An 8" jointer will more than likely be my next purchase. I like the belt sander, that one's really handy, as is the disc sander. The lathe is cool for doing knobs and the drill press is definitely useful. The planer is decent, but it's kind of a pain since you can't really have anything else going at the same time. All in all, it was worth the $1200 (including all the attachments) I have into it.

Check out the Shopsmith forums as well at www.shopsmith.net/forums. There are some really knowledgable guys there.

I use one - it's my main tool since my shop is the size of a 1 car garage. My one piece of advice -- plan everything out in advance so you don't have to keep switching back and forth between modes.

If I had my druthers, I'd get individual machines. Let me know if you have any specific questions.

Nice! How do you like those Steinberger machines?

I wear a respirator, not a dust mask. The type with screw on filters. They're not expensive, more effective than dust masks, you can switch the filters (for paint/finish). And I have no problems with fogging with them.

Same here. I'm extremely (maybe overly) cautious when it comes to safety in the shop.

They have a 30 day no questions asked return policy that I've made use of a few times. In my experience, they don't know half of what they're talking about, but they at least back up what they sell.

In my local GC's (Seattle & Kirkland, WA) there are small fix-it shops right inside or next to, which makes it kind of tough for my biz.