DC Ross

Since you need to shape the back of the neck anyway, you're creating an unneccesary extra step.

Use a good straightedge and digital calipers, as well as a profile template (easy to get from an existing neck that you like the shape of).

I use a Japanese pull saw from Rockler that cuts through .060 aluminum with no problem.

Woodenspoke: you spoke of aluminum contamination, could you expound on that a bit?

You can also use this handy-dandy online calculator: http://www.fretfind.ekips.org/2d/nonparallel.php

Just stick in your two scale lengths, string width at the nut (not the nut width), string width at the bridge, fretboard overhang, "0.33258" for the perpendicular fret distance (for the 7th fret), # of frets and # of strings. Leave the rest of the fields as the default, and it'll spit out a spreadsheet of distances and angles. In that spreadsheet there'll be an "angle" column and a "mid to nut" column which can be used to measure the distance from the nut at the centerline and the angle of that particular fret (assuming you have a digital protractor). Mark it, slot it, fret it and you're done. Easy breezy.

I'm not sure about the 'stomo' bit -- sounds a little too biological to me.

Look a bit closer -- it says "Stono-" as in his name

Hey Blackdog, sorry for hijacking the thread.

There's a good online fret placement calculator that I use here: http://www.fretfind.ekips.org/2d/nonparallel.php

It's nice that it'll output both DXF and SVG (which I use to import into Illustrator).

My preference is to make the 7th fret the perpendicular fret, it seems to be a good balance between a not-too-angled-nut and not-too-angled-bridge.

I completely agree 100% with Perry about protecting your intellectual property.

We've been using the term "multiscale" for years (but I believe erikbojerik was the first to use it on the forum), I even made sure to do a trademark search prior to using it to describe the ones I've built. It can be a bit of a grey area; we've been calling fingerboards "fretboards" forever, but if someone then adds a ™ next to the word, do we need to start calling it something else?

I dunno. I'm no lawyer. Just some jerk buiding guitars in his garage

When I was in Kauai, I saw four roadside stands selling Koa. I don't mean they were selling plastic dashboard hula dancers and other junk & just happend to have Koa, I mean Koa is all they sold. It was a little weird.

So, I recommend going straight to the source and claiming the trip as a business expense when tax time rolls around

CTS is a great brand, there is another top brand that I can't remember right now.

You may be thinking of Alpha; PRS uses them & I've been very happy with them. They're perfectly silent and very smooth. The cheaper pots I've used have been both sticky and noisy.

I used Jatoba for my floors, and a fingerboard on a multiscale (the 2-1/4" wide boards are just wide enough for most fingerboards). It's heavier than lead, the splinters suck and it dulls tools rapidly, but if you have a chunk with some nice colouring and grain, it's a beautiful wood that polishes up to a mirror shine.

Not to get away from the original topic, but Ralph Novax holds the trademark for the phrase "Fanned Fret", which is different than his patent (which is still live -- patent no. 4852450). I was unable to find any documentation for a registration of "Multiscale", by Perry or otherwise.

At any rate, Blackdog, go ahead and build it! It offers some different challenges and they're a blast to play.

It really depends on the difference in scale lengths, as well as where the parallel fret is.

I play both a multiscale bass (34-37") and guitar (25.5 - 28"). The bass was relatively easy to get the hang of. After fiddling with it for a couple of hours, I got the feel of it. The guitar took some more getting used to. Barre chords in the lower registers aren't exactly simple, but it's rare that I'd go to that guitar for strumming stuff anyway -- it's a metal axe through and through.

What they are good at is getting people's attention. At every gig, at least one person asks about it -- and I'm just the lowly bass player

FYI, as far as the nomenclature, "Fanned Fret" is a registered trademark of Novax Guitars. "Multiscale" is the generic description that won't get you sued if you end up selling a bunch of them

I can't imagine carving a top or contours with that Dremel bit... That's gotta take hours!

I use a 60 grit flap disc on an angle grinder. 5 minutes tops.

Go with a standard placement (i.e. perpendicular to the centerline), otherwise you'll run into volume balance issues.

I use a 1/4" auger bit like that for drilling wiring holes from the neck to bridge pu, but for the jackhole ( ) I use a forstner every time.

I haven't noticed any significant differences between Wilkies and Grovers. I've been very happy with Sperzels (solid and precise) but will be trying the Planet Waves locking/trimming machines on my current build.

The knobs on that Maverick are AWSOME!!!!

You can get a covered toggle like that aircraft thing at Radio Shack for a LOT less than what's on that link.

7 bucks at Harbor Freight and you get a built-in LED

Okay this is cool....it may sound like a stupid question...but, I've never seen the fanned fret thing before. Can this be done with any neck to any scale? Or is this only for this particular length? I didn't have time enough to read every comment thru the thread so forgive my ignorance..

Go here and play around with it for a few minutes: http://www.fretfind.ekips.org/2d/nonparallel.php

It's a great tool & it'll give you an idea of how fanned frets work & the mathematics behind it.

<5 minutes with 60 grit paper on a radius block works like a charm for me. Even with a sureform, you'll still need to hit it with some very agressive grits. Honestly, I can't see it taking less time or being easier or more accurate.

GOTM it, it's completely awesome!. How are the multiscales to play? Is it awkward to play on the fanned frets? One day the multiscale guitar will be as famous around the world as the hills-hoist and the lamington

I agree, beautiful guitar & great job with the grain.

re: the fanned frets, I play a Dingwall ABII (34 - 37") and a 6 string baritone (25.5 - 28") that I built a few months ago. They take a few minutes to get the hang of, but once you get the feel of where things are, it's no different than, say, playing a 25.5" scale if you're used to a 24.75" scale.

3/4" melamine/ply/mdf with a hole cut into the center is all you need for a router table. A straight chunk of wood and two clamps are all you need for a fence.

Basically what I was saying. I would use thinner wood though, because the thickness of the wood is reducing the reach of the router bit. In some cases, especially with small bits, it makes a difference.

Ah, must've missed page 2

What bluesy said

I can't afford a router table at the moment, so I've found I can get a straight line by clamping boards behind the guide and in front of the trimmer, so it can't move in either direction. It's not pretty, but it works perfectly.

3/4" melamine/ply/mdf with a hole cut into the center is all you need for a router table. A straight chunk of wood and two clamps are all you need for a fence.

Router table with fence. Easy, safe and accurate.

I print mine out on normal paper and use stick glue to glue it to hardboard. I like the hardboard because it is easy to cut & drum sand to final shape. It's also very light and tough which makes for a great template.

I use the same as jer7440 - a 6", 11" and 18". I use those for a lot of things, they come in really handy.